vegasboy
Junior Member
how do I get the needle bearing out and the new one in? not the roller but the needle?
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needle bearing removel
- Thread starter vegasboy
- Start date
Perhaps you could be more specific as to "WHERE" said needle bearing is located??
- Swing Arm Pivot
- bottom of the rear shock
- rear hub << this area has both....
All are in a cage (thin shell). Should they fall out on their own, you press out the old cage and press in a new one. Some can go clean through from one side to the other; others can not.
vegasboy
Junior Member
needle bearing rear wheel . no they don't go in either end and they don't just press in , there is a collar around the hub on the right side that keeps it in there . there is only one on the wheel right side hub if any one has actually worked on this part I would enjoy your input , IF YOU HAVEN'T . facts only no theories.... ty , many opinions on this the major one is break it to get it out and freeze the new part and it will slip by the collar. .....some can some cant is well .... something a layman would say
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The outer race in the rear wheel has to be driven out from the opposite side.
Freezing it sounds great in practice but its shell is thin and it carries no thermal mass. By the time you get it from the Dry-Ice or Nitrogen bath, touch it with a press of any kind, AND/OR allow it touch the wheel, its temperature will be that of the surrounding elements. It doesn't work on thin wall parts like this.
You'll need a press to do it proper. A bearing driver and hammer will work but a press is preferred. DO NOT use anti-seize!!! Oil or grease only. Obviously you can pound the old one out but be warned its hardened and if you strike it with punch or something with a thin edge that does not cover 50% of the area, its will shatter the edge and turn it into a timely project of grinding the shell in half.
Good luck!
Freezing it sounds great in practice but its shell is thin and it carries no thermal mass. By the time you get it from the Dry-Ice or Nitrogen bath, touch it with a press of any kind, AND/OR allow it touch the wheel, its temperature will be that of the surrounding elements. It doesn't work on thin wall parts like this.
You'll need a press to do it proper. A bearing driver and hammer will work but a press is preferred. DO NOT use anti-seize!!! Oil or grease only. Obviously you can pound the old one out but be warned its hardened and if you strike it with punch or something with a thin edge that does not cover 50% of the area, its will shatter the edge and turn it into a timely project of grinding the shell in half.
Good luck!
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Page 4-11 of the Genuine Yamaha PDF (04-06) shop manual confirms the above post re removal.
You may want to invest in a shop manual.
If you look at a parts fisch, it also shows the assembly: http://www.babbittsonline.com/
BTW, if there is a cage and the roller fell out, the bearing is bad, (its designed to hold everything together).
There are instances where roller pins are used without a cage (some wrist pins', etc). A light coating of grease is normally used to hold those together until the particular assembly is put back together.
You may want to invest in a shop manual.
If you look at a parts fisch, it also shows the assembly: http://www.babbittsonline.com/
BTW, if there is a cage and the roller fell out, the bearing is bad, (its designed to hold everything together).
There are instances where roller pins are used without a cage (some wrist pins', etc). A light coating of grease is normally used to hold those together until the particular assembly is put back together.
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I use Craftsman drifts and large home made drifts to remove and set bearings. Whenever a bearing comes out, only a brand new one goes in.
I bought 1 1 /8", 1 1/4" and 1 1/2 inch, cut, gas piping for setting the bearings. Just had Home Depot cut the threads off the piping. Then I dressed the cut end of the pipe with my round file.
Can of corn.
I bought 1 1 /8", 1 1/4" and 1 1/2 inch, cut, gas piping for setting the bearings. Just had Home Depot cut the threads off the piping. Then I dressed the cut end of the pipe with my round file.
Can of corn.
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I would think its tappered down right before tha bearing goes in permanently so your not having resistance, say 6". A correct sized, .5" drive socket, set in the hole backwards with an extension should work almost as well but the solid pipes would be sturdier.
A HD, correct sized, flat washer could possibly be used with all thread to pull that bearing in too(depending on how tight that bearing is in there).
That method is commony used on the KLRs water pump seals which are a bitch to get to get out without some serious hammering:
MarkNet - KLR650 : Water Pump Seals Replacement about halfways down is when the all thread is used. Pulls nice and easy, NO hammering, etc...
A HD, correct sized, flat washer could possibly be used with all thread to pull that bearing in too(depending on how tight that bearing is in there).
That method is commony used on the KLRs water pump seals which are a bitch to get to get out without some serious hammering:
MarkNet - KLR650 : Water Pump Seals Replacement about halfways down is when the all thread is used. Pulls nice and easy, NO hammering, etc...
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IMO - this task would be much easier to complete by simply knocking the right side ball bearing out. The intent here would be to replace both bearings and punching the BB by its inner race would RUIN IT, but it would come out easy this way (think space limitations).
Having it out would give much better access to fit whatever tool in for pushing the needle bearing out.
Besides, if the one failed, I'd want all three replaced especially if it was from water intrusion.
Having it out would give much better access to fit whatever tool in for pushing the needle bearing out.
Besides, if the one failed, I'd want all three replaced especially if it was from water intrusion.
