Need some advice

[CCHOUSEKY]

I recently purchased a small trailer from a friend of mine. I literally have put the proverbial "cart before the horse", though, since the only car I own currently doesn't have a hitch. This is easily rectified, of course, but I need some advice about pulling this trailer with my FZ6 on it behind my car. Let me give you the background.

As you will see in the pictures, the trailer is a small one. Then again, so is my car...lol. It's a '05 Toyota Echo (manual transmission). 1.5 liter and puts out about 105 hp. I would estimate the trailer weighs somewhere between 250-300 lbs and the bike is somewhere in the range of 450 (it's naked). The trailer is 8 X 4 and is wired for lights.

While the manual for my US version of this car doesn't recommend towing, the manual for both the Canadian and Austrailian versions says it's rated to tow up to 700 kg (around 1500 pounds). I haven't been able to find any differences in the US vs. the overseas/Canadian versions of this car (except I have the biggest engine they offered). And I chalk the US version not being recommended for towing because Americans are so lawsuit-happy. In other words, Toyota was just covering their butts.

I can get a hitch for it that's bolt-on for about $150. Because it's a manual, a transmission cooler isn't needed. The hitch is rated for a 200 lb tongue weight, 2000 lb tow weight.

Another thing that has been pointed out to me. It's got 8-inch wheels. Some of my riding buddies have said I should upgrade those to 12-inch. Should I? What's the benefit?

So, give me advice. Should I even spend the money to get the car ready to tow this? I would probably only use it a couple of times a year to tow the bike 4-5 hours from central Kentucky to Deal's Gap. What am I forgetting? Should I upgrade anything else on the car (rear shocks, brakes, etc?)

I just couldn't pass it up for $200. It's a flip-down trailer too, meaning you pull a pin, and the entire deck rotates down for loading. Should I try this or should I just sell it and cut my losses?

I should add that I'm not a rookie at towing. I've towed a larger trailer many times in my job, but that was using a Ford F-150. I'm more concerned about my car. Can it handle this? Am I going to kill it by trying?

I should also mention what a riding buddy of mine said, and it made perfect sense. In the US, everyone thinks you need a big truck with a huge engine to tow even the smallest trailer. But in Europe, you see small cars (like mine) towing a trailer all the time. I thought it was a great point. Am I just conditioned as an American to think my small car can't do this?

 

[Motogiro]

This might be just fine. If you were going to do a lot mountain climbing and extra duty on the clutch I might be hesitant.
This might be a time for as you said our European friends to chime in with their experiences.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might look at the total package for actual weight; you, your passengers, luggage, food gear, trailer, bike, tools, gas, and make sure that it doesn't exceed the vehicles rated capacity. Be sure to adjust tire pressure as needed when towing too. i.e. do you intend to carry 4 passengers??? You want to be able to stop safely too and not fry the brakes. Also, if you do; I'd try to adjust the load to keep the tongue weight down to couple hundred pounds.

me personally, i'd be hesitant. . . but I have an F350!

 

[Grainbelt]

Perhaps just ride the whole five hours?


Serious answer: the reason to go with larger wheels/tires is to reduce the RPMs of the wheels and resulting heat buildup and wear on the bearings. You should repack the bearings anyway before going too far. I doubt you'll want to go much over 55 with that setup anyway, so perhaps changing the wheels is a moot point.

The car will tow it just fine, but you'll be in 3rd or 4th for any big hills and can just about forget about passing.

As was already said, check the manual for the GVWR and make sure your total payload and trailer don't exceed it. If you're due for any brake maintenance, do that first as well.

Have fun!

 

[CanadianFZ6]

That car will easily do what you want... Think about it... If you had 4 or 5 really big guys in the echo, there is almost a 1000lbs right there. Towing a load is much easier than carrying it... The Echo will do just fine with that small trailer and one bike loaded... You are only towing about 750lbs total weight combined... Take it easy, be gentle on the clutch and you will be fine...

I used to tow a box trailer (way heavier than your tailer) with two 250cc dirt bikes all the time with my 4 cyl Chevy Cavalier.... No problems...

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

Excellent info, guys. Especially CanadianFZ6 (of course, what you're saying is music to my ears...lol).

As far as what I'll be taking...It would just be the bike, my gear (2 sets), and me. I won't have any passengers and I intend to make sure the trunk is completely empty (I figure keeping the gear as far forward as possible is better, or am I over-thinking this?)

Someone I talked to had mentioned the larger wheels having less RPM's, so that makes complete sense. And yeah, another friend here at work and I intend to repack the bearings before the trip (which, if I intend to try this, will be in early October).

As far as the tongue weight, the hitch is rated to a 200 lb tongue weight and we've already talked about trying to move the wheel chock (which I'm about to purchase) back from the front of the trailer to try and balance to load with the bike on there over the axle.

As I mentioned before, the car is rated to tow up to 1500 lbs, so I think I'm good there.

As far as the car goes, I'm planning to put new rotors and brake pads on well before the trip, although the ones that are on there now are only a year old and still in great shape. Any suggestions on what the best type of pad might be (if there even is a "best" sort of pad for towing?)

If anyone else has any suggestions or stories, I'm all ears.

 

[armystrong]

You got a killer deal on that trailer if its in good condition. I've been searching for a good trailer for 200-300 in my area. Most I find around here hover around 400-500.

Sorry no advice on hauling it with a car...I drive a BAT too. (Bigg A$$ Truck)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

All the information above is very good. I agree, you shouldn't have a problem pulling that trailer. Guys on the FJR forum use their FJR to pull similar trailers with their race bikes on the trailer.

Keep close to the max weight on the tonge (use a scale once loaded, get it to ride height and measure the final weight with a bathroom scale. If its real light, it'll get squirrely on you).

Something I did to my two bike trailer (with 12" tires) was to add a bearing buddy which replaces the dust cap. Its spring loaded with a zirk fitting and you put a grease gun on it. It has a spring built into it and keeps pressure on the grease forcing it into the bearing.

For the inner bearing(s), I removed the race and measured in between where the outer race stops and seal comes in to. I drilled and tapped an NPT and put a zirk fitting there. A pump or two on both zirk fittings for each wheel keeps fresh grease inside going in between the seal and actual bearing. When the inner seals just starts to bulge and grease comes out the other side, your done..

If you just put new brakes on the front, you should be fine. You'll go thru the pads a little quicker depending on your driving, but should be fine.. More aggressive pads eat your rotors faster.

 

[FIZZER6]

For what it's worth I saw an econo car pulling a 15' outboard boat this weekend at OBX. Had to weigh significantly more than an FZ6.

 

[Nelly]

That car will easily do what you want... Think about it... If you had 4 or 5 really big guys in the echo, there is almost a 1000lbs right there. Towing a load is much easier than carrying it... The Echo will do just fine with that small trailer and one bike loaded... You are only towing about 750lbs total weight combined... Take it easy, be gentle on the clutch and you will be fine...

I used to tow a box trailer (way heavier than your tailer) with two 250cc dirt bikes all the time with my 4 cyl Chevy Cavalier.... No problems...

Wot he says,
I had a 1.4L Renault and used to regularly bring back 1/2 ton of turff on a trailer.
The biggest consideration is planning braking when coming to a stop.

Nelly

 

[ChevyFazer]

I have built a few trailers in my short time here on earth and I would be more concerned about those small wheels and tires not to mention seeing that also makes me wonder what kind of axle is under it if you can't afford at the moment to upgrade the wheels and tires just be very careful pulling it until you get use to it

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

 

[FizzySix]

I suspect you'll be fine, but you'll definitely notice it's there!

In addition to braking early, since you have a stickshift, what I do in my small truck is:
- Downshift going down long grades to save the brakes and keep a constant speed
- Make sure the engine is at a decent RPM when going uphill, and again a nice consistent speed
- I generally don't tow in 5th/overdrive, with minor exceptions.

Just like the bike, you want to be smooooth.

Also, you mentioned trying to balance the load over the axle - generally speaking you want a little more weight in the front than the back. The last u-haul trailer I rented suggested a 60/40 ratio, I don't recall seeing other numbers elsewhere.

 

[kdburtch]

You got a killer deal on that trailer if its in good condition. I've been searching for a good trailer for 200-300 in my area. Most I find around here hover around 400-500.

Sorry no advice on hauling it with a car...I drive a BAT too. (Bigg A$$ Truck)

Look into harbour freight folding trailer (4x8) and folds up to only have a foot print of 2ftx5ft, Its only about 300 brand new and comes with 12 inch wheels. I bought one in lieu of trading in my explorer for a truck and have been more than happy with it.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Excellent info, guys. Especially CanadianFZ6 (of course, what you're saying is music to my ears...lol).

As far as what I'll be taking...It would just be the bike, my gear (2 sets), and me. I won't have any passengers and I intend to make sure the trunk is completely empty (I figure keeping the gear as far forward as possible is better, or am I over-thinking this?)

Someone I talked to had mentioned the larger wheels having less RPM's, so that makes complete sense. And yeah, another friend here at work and I intend to repack the bearings before the trip (which, if I intend to try this, will be in early October).

As far as the tongue weight, the hitch is rated to a 200 lb tongue weight and we've already talked about trying to move the wheel chock (which I'm about to purchase) back from the front of the trailer to try and balance to load with the bike on there over the axle.

As I mentioned before, the car is rated to tow up to 1500 lbs, so I think I'm good there.

As far as the car goes, I'm planning to put new rotors and brake pads on well before the trip, although the ones that are on there now are only a year old and still in great shape. Any suggestions on what the best type of pad might be (if there even is a "best" sort of pad for towing?)

If anyone else has any suggestions or stories, I'm all ears.

Don't forget a spare tire, inner tube or repair kit for the trailer tires... If you get a flat without the aforementioned, your stuck... oh, and check your tie downs often...

Safe trip Sir...
Richard

 

[ChevyFazer]

I got a little lazy and didnt read eveything before I posted and yes it would be a really good idea to upgrade those wheels to a 12" set up not only will they be turning less rpm (less chance of th bearings failing at highway speeds) they will also be a lot more stable at highway speeds. Im not sure what the technical term for it is but imagine when your spinning a small wheel on a toy car and you spin it too fast it starts to shimmey and shake real bad because it cant handle those rpms now imagine that happening to your trailer with your bike on it, not saying that it will happen but it has happened before. Also those bearing buddys as mentioned aboved would be a good investment too.


Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

You got a killer deal on that trailer if its in good condition.

Thanks, man. Yeah, it's in great condition. I got the really good deal because my friend was the one selling it (he was moving and didn't need it where he was going) and because, well...I'm his friend...lol. My other buddy at work has already re-wired the entire thing, so it's almost like brand new.

Keep close to the max weight on the tonge (use a scale once loaded, get it to ride height and measure the final weight with a bathroom scale. If its real light, it'll get squirrely on you).

Something I did to my two bike trailer (with 12" tires) was to add a bearing buddy which replaces the dust cap. Its spring loaded with a zirk fitting and you put a grease gun on it. It has a spring built into it and keeps pressure on the grease forcing it into the bearing.

For the inner bearing(s), I removed the race and measured in between where the outer race stops and seal comes in to. I drilled and tapped an NPT and put a zirk fitting there. A pump or two on both zirk fittings for each wheel keeps fresh grease inside going in between the seal and actual bearing. When the inner seals just starts to bulge and grease comes out the other side, your done..

If you just put new brakes on the front, you should be fine. You'll go thru the pads a little quicker depending on your driving, but should be fine.. More aggressive pads eat your rotors faster.

I don't normally drive aggressively (my fiance says I drive like a little old lady) . I save that sort of thing for the bike and the twisties! And someone had mentioned the Bearing Buddy thing. I'll definitely have to check into that.

That's also great info on keeping close to the max weight on the tongue. This thing is pretty short anyway, and I don't think I'd have a lot of room to move the wheel chock back much, so that works out well.

Wot he says,
I had a 1.4L Renault and used to regularly bring back 1/2 ton of turff on a trailer.
The biggest consideration is planning braking when coming to a stop.

Nelly

Nelly, that's my biggest concern is the braking. I figured the car could pull it just fine, but obviously getting everything to a safe stop is pretty important too! And the advice about gearing down when going downhill mentioned above is very helpful as well. I tend to do that anyway when I'm coming down a big hill, so I'm pretty good there. And I'll definitely have to pay close attention to stopping distances and giving myself plenty of room.

And I guess I should put some 12-inch tires on there and grab a spare while I'm at it. They aren't expensive at all, so it's a minor thing to do for the added safety.

Guys, I can't say how much weight you've taken off my mind! I really appreciate all the help! :thumbup:

 

[oldfast007]

Or the other simplest method...Find a friend/relative (that you have mutual trust with) that has truck or larger car with a hitch.

If it's only occasional times you'll need the trailer, leave him your car, you take the truck/car and trailer & bike... I swap from time to time with a relative when I need his car for mileage (long trips), he may need my truck for some larger hauling duties. Just a thought...

If you go the hitch method with your car, I think it would work fine so long as you don't exceed the GVWR...Plus if someone makes a bolt up hitch for your model, then it should be good, they don't want to get sued either imo.

Good luck!

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

That's the problem...I don't know anyone with a truck with a hitch...lol. Odd to be from Kentucky and NOT know someone, but I don't.

If I knew someone with a truck that had a bed long enough, I'd just pack the bike in the back of the truck. But, alas, everyone I'm close to either has a car or a truck with no hitch.

I think I'm good to go this way. And you make a great point about the manufacturer of the hitch not wanting to get sued either! :thumbup:

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

If you have a spare hub(and tools to install) and spare tire(with air!) You won't have any problems! Seriously, pack those bearings and any time you stop feel the hubs and tires to check for excess heat. Keep the speed mild and stay on top of your tire pressure and you'll be fine. Down shift for any large hills,up and down. You wouldn't believe how quick you can burn up your brakes. I've known people that have fried their brakes in one run down Big Horn Pass, just gently braking instead of down shifting. Be careful and have FUN!! Rich,,, PS: I team hauled 56 RV trailers to just north of New Orleans from Elkhart Indiana after Hurricane Katrina. Been draggin' trailers for over 40 years.