need some advice - racetech springs, front bearings, galfer line

[Smersh]

So, my planned de-winterization didn't happen this past weekend, as I ran out of time, so my MiG is now sitting in a half-assembled state at my dad's garage. I am hoping to hear some opinions from people here on the following few points:

1) Racetech springs - i've decided to replace the OEMs with racetech, but the springs that came in are shorter than the OEMs. I'm assuming that's ok, given that racetech also included a long aluminum tube that seems to be meant for a spacer. One thing about it though - it is smaller in diameter than the OEM spacer (its external diameter is exactly the internal diameter of the OEM) - so i'm thinking about leaving both spacers, with the OEM spacer ensuring the racetech one is centered. Any potential problems you can think of?

2) Front axle bearings - when should I replace the bearing on the axle? The front bearings take some effort to rotate - nothing crazy, I can still do it with my finger, even when covered with grease, but it's just not as light as the rear bearing. Otherwise everything looks ok -fairly clean original grease inside, no play or anything. Not sure if it makes sense to replace them, since i now have a the wheel off and have a couple of days to order the replacements if needed.

3) Rear shock mount spacer - I'm at 13k, and figured, since I am taking the bike apart, i may as well look at/re-grease the swingarm bearings (16k service). According to the manual, once the bolt of the rear shock's lower mount is out, you should be able to just pull out the spacer. Yeah, that didn't happen. tried anything from light tapping on it to wise grips (obviously withing limits) - it doesn't move at all. Any thoughts/experiences?

4) Galfer rear brake line - ordered from pashnit, looks correct length/turn, but still - to put it into place, I had to twist one of the ends quite a bit - I was able to install it, but there is some twist tension on the line - want to make sure that's not going to cause any issues.

 

[Carlos840]

I can only really help with the springs.

I have done that mod, and didn't need to double the spacers, i don't think it is needed and would not do it.

Just follow the instructions and you should be fine.

Here is the thread i posted when i did mine, it might help you if you are close to my weight:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-performance-mods-section/51901-suspension-setup.html

 

[QwickFliCk]

So, my planned de-winterization didn't happen this past weekend, as I ran out of time, so my MiG is now sitting in a half-assembled state at my dad's garage. I am hoping to hear some opinions from people here on the following few points:

1) Racetech springs - i've decided to replace the OEMs with racetech, but the springs that came in are shorter than the OEMs. I'm assuming that's ok, given that racetech also included a long aluminum tube that seems to be meant for a spacer. One thing about it though - it is smaller in diameter than the OEM spacer (its external diameter is exactly the internal diameter of the OEM) - so i'm thinking about leaving both spacers, with the OEM spacer ensuring the racetech one is centered. Any potential problems you can think of?

as long the spacer compresses the spring w/ the washers in place i think ur good even if its smaller

2) Front axle bearings - when should I replace the bearing on the axle? The front bearings take some effort to rotate - nothing crazy, I can still do it with my finger, even when covered with grease, but it's just not as light as the rear bearing. Otherwise everything looks ok -fairly clean original grease inside, no play or anything. Not sure if it makes sense to replace them, since i now have a the wheel off and have a couple of days to order the replacements if needed.

did u take off the rubber seal on top of the bearing. that causes some friction n may seem like the bearing is moving slow. make sure u have something to put the seal back on like a big socket

3) Rear shock mount spacer - I'm at 13k, and figured, since I am taking the bike apart, i may as well look at/re-grease the swingarm bearings (16k service). According to the manual, once the bolt of the rear shock's lower mount is out, you should be able to just pull out the spacer. Yeah, that didn't happen. tried anything from light tapping on it to wise grips (obviously withing limits) - it doesn't move at all. Any thoughts/experiences?

heat is your friend. i used a torch plumbers use on the bottom bolt connection n a couple tap w a loaded hammer

4) Galfer rear brake line - ordered from pashnit, looks correct length/turn, but still - to put it into place, I had to twist one of the ends quite a bit - I was able to install it, but there is some twist tension on the line - want to make sure that's not going to cause any issues.

if its a steel line i think ur good. i have a rear galfer steel line on my girls bike and the line does a full 180 loop from the master cylinder to be straight to the caliper. dont forget to torque em down to spec

 

[FinalImpact]

So, my planned de-winterization didn't happen this past weekend, as I ran out of time, so my MiG is now sitting in a half-assembled state at my dad's garage. I am hoping to hear some opinions from people here on the following few points:

1) Racetech springs - i've decided to replace the OEMs with racetech, but the springs that came in are shorter than the OEMs. I'm assuming that's ok, given that racetech also included a long aluminum tube that seems to be meant for a spacer. One thing about it though - it is smaller in diameter than the OEM spacer (its external diameter is exactly the internal diameter of the OEM) - so i'm thinking about leaving both spacers, with the OEM spacer ensuring the racetech one is centered. Any potential problems you can think of?

The smaller ID is good. It keeps the parts centered. Take your time getting the sag set properly and you should be fine. Some have used PVC pipe as its easy to cut and or fine tune with washers. Once you determine the spacing needed for the SAG desired, cut it from the aluminum spacers provided.

Hint - a tubing cutter works well for this task.

2) Front axle bearings - when should I replace the bearing on the axle? The front bearings take some effort to rotate - nothing crazy, I can still do it with my finger, even when covered with grease, but it's just not as light as the rear bearing. Otherwise everything looks ok -fairly clean original grease inside, no play or anything. Not sure if it makes sense to replace them, since i now have a the wheel off and have a couple of days to order the replacements if needed.

Did you pull out the hub spacers and gain direct access to the bearing? The drag we feel is usually just the grease seals. If you know the bike has never been under water or pressure washed, firm is good. Smooth is good. If its all notchy and rough = replace it. But off hand that's not many miles. It should be fine! Clean the hub spacers and those outer seals, pack in some new grease and it should be fine. You did check for lateral play while it was bolted into the forks right? There is no free play from the front wheel bearings?

3) Rear shock mount spacer - I'm at 13k, and figured, since I am taking the bike apart, i may as well look at/re-grease the swingarm bearings (16k service). According to the manual, once the bolt of the rear shock's lower mount is out, you should be able to just pull out the spacer. Yeah, that didn't happen. tried anything from light tapping on it to wise grips (obviously withing limits) - it doesn't move at all. Any thoughts/experiences?

So your talking about the lower shock mount, that shaft with the bolt in it?
Two things can happen: the shaft can seize to swing arm or it can seize to the inner bearing in the shock. Most methods for removal result in parts replacement. I guess 3 things; all three can be bound together.

Order these parts and then attack this one.
93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2 $4.24 (X2)
93315-31758-00 BEARING 1 $12.06
90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1 $6.89

This bearing can get bound to the shaft:

Also - you can loosen the bolt, set the bike down and bounce on the repeatedly. This can help loosen the shaft from the S/A. I've suggested others weld a bolt inside the shaft. Now you get heat and can place a socket on it to twist the shaft out.

4) Galfer rear brake line - ordered from pashnit, looks correct length/turn, but still - to put it into place, I had to twist one of the ends quite a bit - I was able to install it, but there is some twist tension on the line - want to make sure that's not going to cause any issues.

How much twist are you talking about? On the front this isn't a bad thing as it helps the line during compression - it pushes out of the way. Just don't tie it down too tight. It should be fine but you could call the manufacture as they may have indexed it wrong.

 

[Smersh]

springs - looks like i got some reading to do

front axle bearings - yes, i removed the spacers, took out the seals and opened up the bearings' own seals to actually get access to the rolling elements. the motion was smooth, so looks like i'm not replacing them then.

lower shock mount - I'm guessing the shaft seized in the swingarm, because I can feel a little bit of horizontal play if i grab the shock itself and try to move it side-to-side.

brake line - I probably had to twist it about 35-45 degrees. shouldn't be too bad, no?

Thanks for the help, guys!