More elaborate air intake mods?

[Fred]

The problem with cold air is that there's no clear path to run a duct forward.

The tank's in the way, and below that the battery and coils are also in the way.

What I would to.

I'd relocate the battery. That may be easier said than done, but possibly you could get a couple of small sealed batteries and mount them in the underseat storage area.

With the stock battery gone, the coils could be placed side by side instead of one above the other. Then you run your duct above the coils.

 

[mkat51]

I think that a "Ram Air" design wont give you the lower air temps when you have the airbox sitting directly above the hot engine. My suggestion would be to insulate the air box from the engine and other heat sources.

 

[Hellgate]

Hey, a lightbulb just came on! It's a dim, flickering Beavis light bulb, but it's definitely glowing!

Here's how I would run ram air ducts without modifying the motorcycle's frame. At least on the 07 and 08 fairings.

Short version. Go through the tank.

Long version.

Cut out the front lobes of the tank and weld in metal ducts for the ram air to go through. On the insides where they meet the airbox, have flanges that press up against the existing airbox top. They will seal with foam weatherstripping when the tank is in place. Then you cut holes in the airbox top to match.

On the outsides of the tank, they will connect to ducts that run inside the fairing, just below the black plastic panels.

So the connection from the tank to the duct happens invisibly since it's in the same place where the fairing already meets the tank. And it's all hidden under covers.

Once in the fairing, the ducts have plenty of room and can be run either to the fake intakes, or to real ones located elsewhere.

Unfortunately, my fairing is full already so I can't do this mod to my bike. What I need is another FZ6 that I can modify. And ideally I'd want somebody to fund this project since I am a student and can't really spend this kind of money on a project.



[COLOR=\\"Red\\"]HEY PETE! I'VE GOT YOUR NEXT MOD![/COLOR]

Fred

Fred I was looking at tanks on Flea Bay, most are too expensive right now, $200+ but I'll keep looking.

I think you may be on to something.

One option on the inlets is to use a NACA duct. There are a wide variety of premade NACA ducts from auto race body suppliers. The trick is to find a small enough one and mod the fairing. The good thing is ABS is very easy to work with. All you need is a fiberglass repair kit and Bondo from Wall E World.

The hard part of this whole thing is finding good prices on a tank and fairing.

I'd think the battery might be able to be positioned into more of a traditional location, behind the engine, and use a gel battery so it is smaller and lighter. We could use band aluminimum for the battery brackets and find a place to hang it.

Insulation is a great idea too. The insulation that is used on the trunk next to the exhaust would work great, find a sheet of the stuff and stick it on the air box and the intake runners.

 

[Cali rider]

Before someone begins cutting metal/plastic, it would be imperative to install 2 or 3 thermocouples in the airbox to get a set of baseline temp readings. I think a sensor just below the trailing edge of the snorkel, one near the velocity stacks, and possibly one more attached on the air filter, in the middle of the side that faces the throttle bodies. This would be in addition to one thermocouple OUTSIDE of the intake system to compare ambient temp to the changes that take place as the air travels towards the motor. Forget the temp display on the speedo unit, it doesn't respond quick enough to show rise at idle or the effect of road speed vs. engine speed.

Once you have a chart of values on the profile of the stock setup you will be able to cut and weld as desired and reassess the temp profile to look for any possible change for good or bad.

At least that's what I would do...

 

[lattin25]

One quick idea to get a little more room for the airbox... You could put some spacers between the frame and the tank mounts up front. Might give you a little more room to work with.

 

[ST31th]

there is a small opening on the right hand side between the engine and frame near the rad cap just behind the rubber insulator it the airbox giv it a try