Mechanical help

L.binie

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Hey guys,
lately i noticed my fuel indicators are not working well it's always in empty even when i fill the tank up ... could it be the fuel gauge or my fuel filter is messing up ....please can you guys recommend any website where i could shop for the right fuel filters for my bike Fz6 2008
 

ChevyFazer

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The filter wouldn't cause that the float would and it seems like for some reason the float is hanging up
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The fuel gauge is attached to the fuel pump inside the gas tank. You can clean the filter but it cannot be replaced/removed. While the two will separate (the pump and the fuel gauge), they can't be purchased new separatly.

Under the tank are two electrical connectors. One is for the fuel pump, the other the gas gauge. Check both connectors and make sure their on tight and don't have any corrosion.

As earlier stated, the float/float arm may be stuck in the down position. One poster sometime ago had the float itself come off the arm and of course, the float arm dropped. In that case, you need to pull the pump/gauge and repair... The gauge in the tank could be worn out but that seems to be pretty rare...

If you siphoned some gas out of the tank, you may have bent the arm as well.

Good luck..
 

DownrangeFuture

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It is possible to "lock" the fuel arm in the empty position. There's supposed to be a spring that keeps it from doing that, but that might have worn out?

Check the connections, but if the connections on the bottom were disconnected or bad then your fuel gauge would be flashing. If the circuit isn't completed for any reason then the gauge flashes.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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It is possible to "lock" the fuel arm in the empty position. There's supposed to be a spring that keeps it from doing that, but that might have worn out?

Check the connections, but if the connections on the bottom were disconnected or bad then your fuel gauge would be flashing. If the circuit isn't completed for any reason then the gauge flashes.

There isn't any springs to keep the float arm from sticking but there is two plastic protrusions that stick out and limit the range of motion of the float arm. Actually, when trying to remove the fuel pump, (without releasing the float level assembly with the tab-see below picture) the part that sticks IS THE LOWER float arm stop. If someone forced the fuel pump out AND BROKE THAT TAB, it may be the problem. I have gotten the pump out in the past without breaking the tab BUT ITS EXTREMLY LIKELY to BREAK. The first picture, at the very top, the "L" shaped plastic is a STOP for the float arm, seen directly behind it (silver bent arm).


I strongly suggest to release the pin and pull out the assembly separated. Upon re-assembly, it can go back in as ONE unit (doesn't make sense). (I just replaced my tank about a week and a half ago as well as approx 2 years ago when I bought the bike crashed..)

For your problem, I suspect your going to have to pull the pump (as noted above) and check movement of the arm and the stops. The unit itself could be worn out. To check that, plug JUST THE FUEL GAUGE (still attached to the pump) (DO NOT PLUG IN THE PUMP)to the main harness and actuate the arm up and down while watching your fuel gauge. Check for straightness of the arm, any binding Also make sure the float itself is still attached to the end of the arm. Its been posted here previously of the float itself coming loose.

PS: Get the tank as close to empty as you can as it'll be much easier to handle, later clean up and the fire hazard somewhat reduced. I used an old soft piece of carpet with a super soft towel to rest the tank upside down on to prevent any scratching while the tank was upside down..

Disclosure, pic's are not mine but from another member...
 
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1/2%normal

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plugging in just the gauge and not the pump will throw a fault code causing more confussion. run some fuel injector cleaner through your system, fill your tanks a few times. If that doesnt work then check the resistance and voltage of the level gauge at the plug
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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plugging in just the gauge and not the pump will throw a fault code causing more confussion. run some fuel injector cleaner through your system, fill your tanks a few times. If that doesnt work then check the resistance and voltage of the level gauge at the plug

I didn't consider it throwing a fault code. :thumbup:

As for running fuel injector cleaner, it won't hurt but it won't have anything to do with the fuel sender gauge.

Its a separate system, just happens to attach to the fuel pump, it's obviously wired separatly.

I do agree, (if the float itself is still on the arm and not binding), check the resistance of the sender unit working the float arm thru the up and down range. They do wear out but its somewhat rare..

Hopefully the plastic stops are there for the arm and the arm isn't jambing up...

Below are the spec's to check the fuel level sender


1. Remove:
• Fuel tank
2. Disconnect:
• Fuel pump coupler
• Fuel sender coupler
(from the wire harness)
3. Remove:
• Fuel pump
(from the fuel tank)
4. Check:
• Fuel sender resistance
Out of specification → Replace the fuel
pump assembly.



Fuel sender resistance (full)
20–26 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Fuel sender resistance (empty)
134–140 Ω at 20°C (68°F) (You must be able to move the arm up and down manually for this)



• Positive tester probe
Green/White “1”
• Negative tester probe
Black “2”
 
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FinalImpact

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Unlikely but possible is the float sank. As in, it no longer floats because its filled with gas.

In these rare cases you see very strange behavior whereby you run it low on gas, the fuel drains from the float through the crack (pending location of hole/crack). At fill up, the float rises for a while and then sinks as the fuel enters the crack and sinks the float again.

Something to keep in mind if you don't solve it before having to pull the assembly out.
 

ChevyFazer

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Nothing personal against to the OP but I love how people ask for advice or help on problems such as this one and never post again lol, probably about 50% of post like this the op never comes back
 

jay5687

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Under the tank like someone else said there is a wire under the tank that could be loose to check turn the bike on to were the fuel gauge reads then h
Press on the wire were it connects and see if it goes up try the simple obvious things first
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Nothing personal against to the OP but I love how people ask for advice or help on problems such as this one and never post again lol, probably about 50% of post like this the op never comes back

+1, you try to help and half the time never hear the outcome...

The guy with the stipped spline output shaft (where the sprocket bolts), what ever happened to him?
 

ChevyFazer

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Exactly, I was actually kind of looking forward to hearing how he went about correcting it
 

1/2%normal

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As for running fuel injector cleaner, it won't hurt but it won't have anything to do with the fuel sender gauge.

Its a separate system, just happens to attach to the fuel pump, it's obviously wired separatly.

I know it doesnt have to to with the gauge but if the sensor is in the tank or attached to the fuel pump then it does have a chance (with the high ethanol fuel) of getting stuck or damaged in some way (gas+plastic=disaster from personal experience). Its just something to try and eliminate a possibility of the problem.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I know it doesnt have to to with the gauge but if the sensor is in the tank or attached to the fuel pump then it does have a chance (with the high ethanol fuel) of getting stuck or damaged in some way (gas+plastic=disaster from personal experience). Its just something to try and eliminate a possibility of the problem.

I suppose if you had varnish built up on the resistor coil/ contact points it'd help clean them.

I suspect in the end, he's going to have to pull the pump and see what the arm/float/electrical connection is doing. I suspect someone broke off the bottom plastic stop for the arm (from pulling the pump incorrectly) and its jambed down or the float itself failed/or is off the arm...

He's not posting anymore so, ????
 
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