Maximum Kelvin for headlight bulbs

[Deleted member 2349]

OK i tried to hijack the other headlight bulb thread but, here's my question again.

After looking into the "blue" bulbs and not quite finding the PIAA extreme blue white H7 in an affordable range. And reading a few posts on short bulb life.

So I broadened my search and wanted to know what the Max Watt/Kelvin rates should be for the bike...Can it handle a 80W 8500K bulb??

I already ordered the H4 Nokya yellow bulbs...but they also have a arctic purple.

 

[champion221elite]

The bike itself can handle any color temperature (kelvin) bulbs. Your electrical system however will be strained by extensive use of high wattage bulbs.

I read somewhere the FZ6 electrical sytem puts out around 400 watts at 5,000 rpm. If you're running two 80 watt bulbs (one high beam, one low beam), that just ate up 160 watts of your electrical output. Combine that with your side marker lights, taillight, EFI/ computer system, and any other installed accessories. That doesn't leave much surplus energy to keep the battery topped off.

I would caution against using any standard halogen bulb with a rated output higher than 55 watts. The heat and electrical demand has the potential to damage components in the system. Also, I would avoid using any halogen bulb that advertises light output exceeding 5,000 degrees Kelvin. That blue filter material on the capsule will diminish your light output. Sure, the light looks blue but you're not putting the same number of lumens down the roadway. I've been using the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs (about 4,200K) output. The light is very bright white, with a very small blue tint.

 

[notjohndavid]

I have to agree with champion221elite on every point.

He mentioned this but just wanted to add my 0.02 (which isn't worth much). Anything that produces something in the blue range does it by coating the bulb with a blue tint. This decreases overall light output. Stay with a bulb that has clear glass. Anything else isn't going to be as bright. People have a misconception that the higher the Kelvin rating the brighter it is. All that the Kelvin rating is, is a description of the color temp or hue of the light output. Just because it's higher doesn't mean it's brighter. (Just the opposite in the case of anything higher than about 5500K (since the bulb manufactures will have to put a coating on the bulb to push things toward the blue side)

Color temperature - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[champion221elite]

Well put notjohndavid! :thumbup:

 

[Fz6Sa]

I read somewhere the FZ6 electrical sytem puts out around 400 watts at 5,000 rpm.

Our Alternator outputs 14V, 310W @ 5000rpm

 

[champion221elite]

Our Alternator outputs 14V, 310W @ 5000rpm

Wow... that's even worse than I thought. Thanks for the correction:rockon:

 

[Deleted member 2349]

Thanks guys for the math/alternator...I don't run anything yet and when I do add a power socket it will be for GPS and/or Cell phone charging.

I do understand the higher the Kelvin doesn't mean the brighter, and most of the riding I do near the city has street lights. So I guess I just want to be SEEN.

My question with the Watt/Kelvin was more driven to heat and/or damage to the bike itself. Which Champion touched on in his last statement. But most of the H7 bulbs I have looked at are in the 55-80W (Draw) and 6-8000K... What damage could I be looking at? Will it cook the inside of the headlight area?

Has anyone tried LUMINICS brand lights...looks like they are 55W draw and 6000K

 

[champion221elite]

Running a higher wattage bulb can do several things to your electrical system.

I ran an 80 watt H4 bulb in my old 2003 Yamaha XT 225. Within seconds after starting the bike, I observed faint wisps of white smoke coming from the area behind my speedometer and headlight housing. I touched the wire harness for the headlight and received a burn when the plastic insulation material melted and stuck to my finger.

Electrical systems are designed with a certain wattage target in mind. Wire gauge and protection such as fuses and relays are designed for a certain current draw. When current demand surpasses the capabilities of the circuit, the result will be a failure of some sort. This can include burned wires, warped lamp housings, blown fuses/ fusible links, and it can severely damage the alternator/generator in extreme cases.

I would caution against using any bulb that exceeds the capabilities of the circuit. If you're concerned about making yourself more visible to motorists, I would suggest installing a headlight modulator for daytime use with a switch to disable the modulator for nighttime use. For nighttime riding, a mod such at BD43's will give you more visibility to other motorists.

I'm not an electrical engineer, so anyone who's well versed in direct current can feel free to jump in. All I can speak from is personal experience.

 

[CrazyBiker]

I have been running 80/85W bulbs for months without any issues. I got 2 pair from ebay for $18 shipped. Can't be happier, they produce white HID like light with a blue tinge.

 

[Deleted member 2349]

I do have BD43's mod, but wanted to play with the bulb colors...well at any rate thanks for the info...Looks like I'm going to save up for the PIAA or try the Luminics. Hopefully someone has tryed them and can chime in...at least these are the only 2 that I have found that are 55W and have the look i am going for.

 

[reiobard]

the wires going to your headlights are only rated for 55 watts, so anything beyond that will melt the wires, regardless of what the bike can handle. The best way to get more light is to go with HID.

 

[Deleted member 2349]

Thanks reiobard, well I went on some of the advise in the other thread about headlight colors and went with the Nokya yellow ones for the H4 bulb that some folks were happy with. They are 70/80W, So I guess I wont push the envelope and I'll keep it the H7 side closer to the 55w. Hopefully some cheap PIAA extreme white ones will pop up somewhere. I called around town and shops were asking $75-90 for a pair.

 

[Deleted member 2349]

Just wanted to thank everyone again...I ended up getting a twin pack of the PIAA extreme white ones for 42$ shipped. There was one auction on fleebay(the rest were buy it now) and I got the sucker. Thanks again.

 

[bmccrary]

I have been running a 55/100 for over a year now. I have roughly 10,000 miles on those lights, with out a problem.

I also changed the stock connecters over to some universal deal from the autoparts store when I did my dual headlight mod.

-bryan

 

[SovietRobot]

Color temperature and wattage are two different things.
The bike can "handle" any color, but some colors have longer wavelengths, so it'll effect your visibility.
Yellow has the best, white is better, and blue/purple are okay.

 

[wrightme43]

The nokya I got is for the low beam. It says 70w on the box. HOWEVER

the base of the bulb says 55w. I think its a marketing ploy to say MY WONDER BULB PUTS OUT 70W OF LIGHT Yay MEEEE!!!!!

Mine have over 10,000 miles on them. The PIAA does the same thing on the highbeam output, and I run it.

55w low beam lit. 55w low beam lit. ON LOW
55w low beam lit. 55w low beam lit. 65w high beam lit. ON HIGH.

Now according to Nokya and Piaa I am using
70w and 100w on low and 70w 100w 110w on high.
280w of light when I am on high. Its a bunch of fooey.

Yes I am using 175W of power on just my headlamps on high at night. It has been that way since I first got the bike, that was my first mod. ZERO problems.

Now I did use good wire, proper waterproof heatshrink connections, with a additional layer of heatshrink.


Piaa info

The very popular Xtreme White Plus technology is now available in H4 style bulbs. Rated at 4000K and providing 110watts of light from only 55watts these bulbs will provide a brilliant Xtreme cool white light that will light up road hazards and street signs long before a normal halogen bulb.The Blue topcoat on these bulbs adds a slight blue tint to the lamp for enhanced curb appeal.
Twin Pack15224 Single Pack15214Bulb TypeH4Wattage60/55w = 110/100ww, 4000KTechnologyXtreme White Plus
Zero problems.

26,000 miles. I believe if it were going to cause a problem I would of at least maybe blown a fuse by now.

No worries man, its a marketing ploy.

 

[Deleted member 2349]

Sweet, I haven't taken the yellows out of the package yet, Glad to hear its all a bunch of marketing BS. Should have the PIAA's by mid next week...and let the fun begin. Spring modding fever in full effect.

 

[Zanch]

If you want expert advice on everything lighting... hidplanet.com is the place.

When people say yellow is the best... it's the best for rain. The more blue or higher kelvin a bulb is rated at the worse it will penetrate rain etc. that's why they put them in fog lights. As for the best light output of a halogen bulb... get one that's doesn't have tinted glass. Clear will give you the best output. Lastly... I couldn't imagine paying more than 10 dollars for halogens. They're only slightly brighter and you can get cheap high wattage bulbs all over the place.

Finally: go HID or go home and if you do it... retrofit some d2s projectors in. If you don't know what d2s is... start your research.

 

[Zanch]

Yes I am using 175W of power on just my headlamps on high at night. It has been that way since I first got the bike, that was my first mod. ZERO problems.

Didn't I see you asking about a trickle charger in a different thread? Wouldn't that indicate a problem(though minor) or consequence if you don't like the word problem.