Manual Cam Tensioner options for 06' FZ6

[Kaisersoze]

So I am going to try a manual tensioner to try and eliminate this valve train noise because its getting pretty bad and I want to make sure this piece is operating right.

Does anyone know a good company that makes manual tensioners for an 06'? Also, what is the process for tightening to spec? Any suggestions?

Thanks all!

 

[fb40dash5]

APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation

Those are the only ones I've seen available. Not saying it's the only option, just haven't heard of any others.

Man, the FZ6/R6 one looks really janky compared to some of the other ones they make.

 

[SovietRobot]

That one and a similar(probably the same) looking one on ebay is all i've found.
All it needs to do is hold the bolt in the same place. It doesn't need to be overengineered

 

[Kaisersoze]

Im guessing because we have an 03' R6 engine in our bikes that we could use the same cam tensioner for the model year as well?

 

[fb40dash5]

Im guessing because we have an 03' R6 engine in our bikes that we could use the same cam tensioner for the model year as well?

I've found sites listing the same APE tensioner as the 99-04? R6. Can't tell you from experience, but I'd say so.

 

[Kaisersoze]

Just bought APE Manual Tensioner for R6 Engine thru '05. I know people say that there is normal valve noise associated with our yammi's but the noise Im hearing is very unsettling. Its not a normal valve tick but more of a loud metallitic rattling that speeds up or slows down depending on throttle. The tensioner failing is my best guess after A LOT of diagnosis and a valve check from dealership (which turned out perfect). So I will post if this changes my situation for the better. Tensioner cost 65.00 Shipped with gasket. Not bad considering.

 

[Capo79]

Just bought APE Manual Tensioner for R6 Engine thru '05. I know people say that there is normal valve noise associated with our yammi's but the noise Im hearing is very unsettling. Its not a normal valve tick but more of a loud metallitic rattling that speeds up or slows down depending on throttle. The tensioner failing is my best guess after A LOT of diagnosis and a valve check from dealership (which turned out perfect). So I will post if this changes my situation for the better. Tensioner cost 65.00 Shipped with gasket. Not bad considering.

From experience, I can tell you it's definately the cam chain tensioner. I had that metallic rattling noise too, and I swapped that little ****er with a new one. Voilá!

Thing is, it's a little piece in the spring mechanism that gets loose at some point. The resonance of the motor coincides with that piece at certain rev's, giving that nasty noise. So... There you have it:thumbup:

 

[Kaisersoze]

I really hope so! lol. I cant tell you how nervous I get with that thing. Im constantly afraid the valves are gonna kiss the pistons and boom, engines toast and I'm probably pole vaulted off bike going 80 mph.

 

[REO Scorpio]

I really hope so! lol. I cant tell you how nervous I get with that thing. Im constantly afraid the valves are gonna kiss the pistons and boom, engines toast and I'm probably pole vaulted off bike going 80 mph.

Keep us posted on how that manual one works out. If you have success, I'll pull the trigger as well. 65 is cheaper than the extra OEM tensioner I bought!

Scorp


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[Capo79]

I really hope so! lol. I cant tell you how nervous I get with that thing. Im constantly afraid the valves are gonna kiss the pistons and boom, engines toast and I'm probably pole vaulted off bike going 80 mph.

Don't worry:thumbup: The motor is almost bulletproof. My bike has rolled close to 57000 km's, and has never been as good as it is now The cam chain tensioner got messy at about 40.000, and the new one hasn't shown any indications of rattling so far. I wouldn't bother looking for a manual tensioner, as the automatic is good enough. Manual tensioners are pre-80's tech:spank:

Also keep in mind that the noise isn't dangerous in any way, and that the integrity of the tension itself isn't compromised despite that loose thingy inside the tensioner. All it does, is annoy you and make you worried.

Swapping it is also a piece of cake. Took me no more than an hour, maybe two. It's quite expensive though... Especially if you get it from the stealership.

 

[Motogiro]

When the 09 R1 came out there was a problem with the OEM CCT. There was one catastrophic engine failure that I heard was related to the CCT failure. It took Yamaha a long time to admit there was a problem and offer a solution.
Most guys I know went the APE route.
Follow the instructions!!! There was a forum member this last year that was changing out the CCT and got the cam chain jumped and the engine was toast.
He was buying another bike at the time and I never heard back from him whether he fixed it or not.
Also VEGASRIDER (Kenny) had a problem with his crank shaft position sensor. When they opened up the case they found that the CCT and possibly the Delrin guides where worn enough to let the cam chain hit the sensor and grind through the sensor assembly.

 

[Capo79]

Follow the instructions!!! There was a forum member this last year that was changing out the CCT and got the cam chain jumped and the engine was toast.

How on earth did that guy manage this?? Did he open the whole cam chain cover, or what? I mean... From what I can remember, it was a no-brainer to swap it. The thing goes in one way, and that's it. It's impossible to screw this up:ban:

 

[Motogiro]

How on earth did that guy manage this?? Did he open the whole cam chain cover, or what? I mean... From what I can remember, it was a no-brainer to swap it. The thing goes in one way, and that's it. It's impossible to screw this up:ban:

Don't know but he said he had turned the engine over and it bogged at first. He may have hit the starter while all was loose?

 

[Kaisersoze]

That person probably got the instructions wrong. You are supposed to turn the cam chain slowly while turning in the manual bolt until you feel pressure on the bolt against the chain guide. Then you back it out a 1/4 turn. Turn on bike after setting lock nut and see if noise still there. If so, incrementally tighten the bolt till there is a little rattle. Apparently, too tight is way worse than a little loose. I bet they turned the engine on while the bolt was a little too far out to see if they still heard noise.

 

[GTPAddict]

With car engines, it is very possible (and quite common) to have a cam jump a tooth by doing nothing more then taking the tensioner off with the cam in the wrong position. If the cam lobe is just past center with a valve depressed, it will want to turn to due to valve spring tension. It's important to have the cams in the right position, normally with the crank at TDC.


This is from the FZ6 repair manual under cam shaft replacement.

1. Remove:
pickup rotor cover
Refer to “CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
AND PICKUP ROTOR”.
2. Align:
“T” mark a on the pickup rotor
(with the crankcase mating surface b )
a. Turn the crankshaft clockwise.
b. When piston #1 is at TDC on the compression
stroke, align the “T” mark a on the pickup
rotor with the crankcase mating surface
b .
TDC on the compression stroke can be found
when the camshaft lobes are turned away from
each other.

- Skip step 3 - loosening the cam shaft sprocket

4. Loosen:
cap bolt 2
5. Remove:
timing chain tensioner and
gasket

 

[Kaisersoze]

Just received manual tensioner. Going to try this out in a few minutes. Pray for me. :BLAA:

 

[skooter65]

Just received manual tensioner. Going to try this out in a few minutes. Pray for me. :BLAA:

I was just about to post a thread asking about this!

Good luck with the install; I think we are all looking forward to the results. :thumbup:

 

[Hellgate]

My R6 came with the APE. Looks like a well made unit.

Good luck with the install.

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[Kaisersoze]

no idea how to tighten this thing. They say tighten till you "feel" the cam chain...wtf does that mean. I had it way in an felt jack squat. Also, busted my auto tensioner when taking out LOL. Any advice?

I had bike in neutral and was cranking the chain forward and backward a little with wrench to see if I could feel. Would going backward on the chain screw it up, even if it was 1/4 a turn?

 

[skooter65]

no idea how to tighten this thing. They say tighten till you "feel" the cam chain...wtf does that mean. I had it way in an felt jack squat. Also, busted my auto tensioner when taking out LOL. Any advice?

I had bike in neutral and was cranking the chain forward and backward a little with wrench to see if I could feel. Would going backward on the chain screw it up, even if it was 1/4 a turn?

Can't say that I have any experience with this, but i would recommend comparing the extended length of the manual adjuster to the full extended length of the stock automatic adjuster. This will give you a base-line to compare the manual adjustable unit (i.e. how many threads "in" you will have to be before you are engaged a similar amount as the stock unit). Does that make sense?