Looks like an obvious battery problem but just want to be sure...

[elus1ve]

Since taking the bike out for this riding season, the crank has been getting progressively more difficult - slow, hesitant but some days it would fire up just fine though.

Did a 150km ride today with lots of highway and when I stopped for gas, it simply would not crank at all. Just a tic tic noise and the dash would turn off and back on again. Looked like an obvious dead battery case. Someone had to help me push the bike and start it on 1st gear and I was on my way home. I was only 5 mins away from home and it ran just fine all the way. Funny thing is that after just 5 mins ride back, I turned it off and crank it again and it fired right up like the battery was brand new. Did it a few times easily. I doubt 5 mins would charge a dead battery, specially if it died after a 150km ride.

It seemed like an obvious battery problem but that last bit gave me pause. Still going to replace the battery since it's been 3 years I got this 2007 and never replace the battery myself and I may not have charged the battery during winter as diligently.

Should I keep an eye on anything else? No alarm or accessories are permanently connected to the battery.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd check the battery terminals for tightness BUT, it sounds like the battery is worn out..

If you can put a volt meter on the terminals when cranking and running, you should get close to 14 volts once running above 3K RPM's.(see below video)

If installing the battery yourself, make sure its trickle charged (1.25 amp is best) fully after filling..The battery is at 80% charged once filled.
Charging will extend the life of the battery as well with the initial charge.

Also an indication of the failing battery is the dash lights dimming when cranking and / or the clock re-setting.

Here's a video of my bike with a failing battery just before replacement (it wasn't as bad as yours):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/

 

[elus1ve]

Watched the vid - you called that a failing battery? lol. I haven't had my bike crank up that fast all season.

I don't have a volt meter to test it out but I'm pretty sure the battery is worn out. It is just weird that it is being such a lunatic.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Could be the battery, could be the rectifier, engine cut off switch, which I have all replaced at one point or another due to failure. Depending on how many miles you have on the bike, it could be your brushes inside your starter. I was having intermittent starting problems and everyone was convinced it was electrical, bad or loose wires, bad battery, etc. Some times it was cranked real slow, and sometimes it fired right up. Sometimes, it didn't fire up at all. Push starting the bike was a clue that it could have been a starter issue, and it was, at least for me. My odometer was around 104K Miles when my brushes went pad.

 

[Motogiro]

Watched the vid - you called that a failing battery? lol. I haven't had my bike crank up that fast all season.

I don't have a volt meter to test it out but I'm pretty sure the battery is worn out. It is just weird that it is being such a lunatic.

A load test on a charged battery will tell you if it lacks depth of charge. Two things that will be important. One is voltage and the other is current. Most places that sell batteries will load test it for free. The battery will need to be fully charged. My battery is going on 7 years old. It's still good but I can see it's performance is on the wane.
What Kenny says is true. I did suspect the brushes on his problem because of the symptoms.
You should do the tests or have them done so that you are not guessing.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Watched the vid - you called that a failing battery?

If you notice when I cranked it, the voltage dropped to below 10 volts. The dash lights would also
go out momentarily when cranking. I do have an old school load tester (heating elements) ,
the tester showed it was borderline. Obviously, my bike charge's fine.

I never had to push start it and had my spare, NEW battery next to the bike (not filled) for about a year
before I installed it..

Plus one on the above posts but unless you have pretty high mileage on the bike, the starter is likely fine.

The battery would be the first thing to check and as Cliff posted, a load test will give you a decisive answer.

 

[FinalImpact]

Like the OP said, no way it could recharge so quickly so, im hesitant to say its the battery. Testing should lead to failure if it is bad.

Ive had 3 cage and an AGM battery just open up (Jet ski, battery took a beating). During cranking. All 7+ year old batteries. They would show 12.7v no load but couldn't keep the dome light lit as internally they opened.

This seems different. Unlikely to be the relay but possible. It really seems like a bad connection as Scott mentioned.

 

[elus1ve]

Brought the battery to a shop they did a couple of tests - voltage is good and the load was good for 10 secs before it started dropping to zero within another 10 seconds. They are charging it and retesting it to be sure.

Bought a new battery anyway. They are 'initializing' it with a device and it takes 2 hours. They do not recommend using a normal charger on new battery and they rather charge the battery themselves. Going to pick it up later.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tks for the update.

You may want to go to Yuasa's web site.

What I posted is from their site, they manufacture the battery...

And the 1.25 amp is a typical Battery Tender charger that takes well over two hours...

 

[elus1ve]

That's what they use:
TecMate – BatteryMate 150-9

Looks like a charger to me. A fancy one but still a charger.

 

[Motogiro]

That's what they use:
TecMate – BatteryMate 150-9

Looks like a charger to me. A fancy one but still a charger.

Yeah... Like a $500 charger! Desulfates, charges and load tests! Good on getting it checked out.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good...

Please post back once installed and running, should be good to go!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is it alive???

 

[elus1ve]

Is it alive???

Sorry for the late reply, been busy riding. The thing will not turn off anymore with the new battery Blah

Seriously, the new battery cranks like a champ - under a sec. Happy to report that all is good :thumbup: thx

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Figured you'd be out riding!! Glad it was an easy fix!

 

[Ohendo]

Side question, psuedo hijack.....what's the expected life of the stock battery? I was thinking while reviewing this thread that I've never replaced mine. Same battery since 2005.
No current issues, fires right up, and I use a tender during prolonged non-riding periods. I know my car batteries have failed anywhere from 4-6 years; this battery is now 11 - maybe I should replace it preventatively.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Side question, psuedo hijack.....what's the expected life of the stock battery? I was thinking while reviewing this thread that I've never replaced mine. Same battery since 2005.
No current issues, fires right up, and I use a tender during prolonged non-riding periods. I know my car batteries have failed anywhere from 4-6 years; this battery is now 11 - maybe I should replace it preventatively.

Its not a hijack as the Op's bike is fixed!

I got about 4 years with the FZ battery. My old FJR, EVERY 3 years it would go downhill.

Unless your battery is acting up, I'd keep it, no reason to pitch it...

When my dash lights would dim when cranking, that's the first sign of the battery failing.
With the FZ, I got another year out of it easily and even then it was still starting fine.

My luck, I'd drop the bike push starting it and cause another $500 in damage, thus I don't hesitate
replacing the battery if needed...

 

[Ohendo]

Thanks Scott! Pretty crazy this battery has lasted as long has it has. I'll just keep it until I see a reason to replace.

 

[FinalImpact]

My observation about LAB is heat kills them faster than anything for the exception of leaving them discharged or over charging them.

Mine lasted 8.5 years and started the bike fine. As they age the plates do get thinner so keep this in mind. One drop and the shock can be enough to open a junction internally and leave you stranded...

Because of where I ride and the limited amount of cell coverage, walking distance, people are scarce, and boots not meant for walking - I changed it!

My concern for yours would be that accidental drop and it leaving you stranded.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What's "LAB"?

And I have to agree about the heat and life. There's no way I could get the life you have FI out of a battery like you have.

I do ride 365 and the battery has a good life W/O getting stuck in traffic, commutes, fan NEVER comes on, etc.
And that's with a Genuine Yuasa OEM style battery..