Leaking Oil, need new clamp?

[VEGASRIDER]

I've been leaking oil for several months now, nothing serious, just a small drip but since the weather is nice, time to take care of the problem. It appears I just need to purchase a new hose clamp and screw, since the stock clamp and screw doesn't tighten any harder. If that's the case, will any hose clamp and screw from Lowe's or hardware store work? Or should I get a OEM replacement. The hose is still stock, I'm guessing it really needs to be replaced, but I can't find the part number of the hose. I want to see if a new clamp will stop the leak, if not I will have to replace the hose.

Scott, Randy, your thoughts?

 

[Motogiro]

That's your water pump.... Could the oil be dripping from above the hose? That clamp and hose might be okay. Maybe the clutch cover gasket....? Also I know your crank shaft position sensor and other work was done previously so maybe that cover....

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Waterpump, well that helps as far which clamp and hose. I think #22 & #13. The hose directly above the bottom one, which appears to be leaking from the clamp is not leaking, and I don't think it contains oil, maybe radiator fluid.

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/yamaha/yam017/ya0210046046.gif

 

[Motogiro]

Waterpump, well that helps as far which clamp and hose. I think #22 & #13. The hose directly above the bottom one, which appears to be leaking from the clamp is not leaking, and I don't think it contains oil, maybe radiator fluid.

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/yamaha/yam017/ya0210046046.gif

Maybe it's even a combo of coolant and oil? Hit it with some S-100 cleaner and pressure wash it right there so it's clean. Then you may have a better look at what's seeping and from where. If you see an oil drip on the ground you know it's an oil leak.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

100% certain it is oil, not coolant.

 

[FinalImpact]

You should have that looked at on the 125,000 check up! Blah

Looks like oil, looks slow. So slow it can attract dirt and debris and coagulate! Clean it as Cliff suggests and look up from the bottom.

Although it also looks like drain bolt is seeping on the WP housing too. Could be WP seal or WP to case seal. Look up from bottom!!!

Also, don't it look like the WP hose is nearly sliced from the clamp? Unless thats the protective cover slid back too far?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^.

There is a slight drop of coolant in the first pic. That hose also appears to have expanded a bit(likely needing replacing). Replacing the clamp is just hiding the problem, I'd address the issue itself..

That oil leak has to be the oil seal slowing giving up.

IMO, with the high miles you have on the bike, rebuilding the water pump (bearings inside too) and replacing that hose would be a good investment.

You don't want that pump letting loose in the middle of no where...

 

[FinalImpact]

But what if OPs coolant is black and nasty and the hose which looks like a snake with rodent inside is about to burst?

Thinking back, ive seen coolant leaks be black an nasty like that, so two votes for hose replacement as its only the suction hose (top center hose) with the extra jacket so what i thought was the jacket slid back is really your hose failing....

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

If the oil seal is failed, oil will also be leaking through the weep hole. Your case might be contributed to many factors, hose, oil seal, water seal and the bottom cover blocks the wind so oil drips everywhere else. (I rode mine without cover so the wind blew oil to my center stand's spring, oil pan..etc it's nasty leak!).

have you looked from the bottom if the weep hole leaks any oil and coolant at all?

for better, just rebuild the water pump ($60 parts), the hose that's what I would do.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

+1 ^^.

There is a slight drop of coolant in the first pic. That hose also appears to have expanded a bit(likely needing replacing). Replacing the clamp is just hiding the problem, I'd address the issue itself..

Excellent observation about the hose becoming expanded. Kind of bloated. I'm tight on funds at the moment, I think the section of the hose and clamp will be replaced. I will probably get it done at the dealership.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Can swapping out the portion of the hose be done without draining the oil? I expect some oil loss during the swap. I just don't want the dealership to con me by telling me that the oil must be drained when I really don't have to.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Uhmmm I don't think there is any oil from that hose,,mostly coolant (I know it very well since I just spent a quiet time assembly/disassembly to repair my water pump and you might have to drain and/replace the coolant. $10 Prestone 50/50

Good luck!

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Looks like oil, looks slow. So slow it can attract dirt and debris and coagulate! Clean it as Cliff suggests and look up from the bottom.

Although it also looks like drain bolt is seeping on the WP housing too. Could be WP seal or WP to case seal. Look up from bottom!!!

I removed the lower cowl and cleaned the area with a pressure washer, rode the bike a bit and it's definately leaking oil. A very slow drip.

Eventually, the undercarriage and side of the bike will look like this so I have scheduled an oring replacement for the water pump, along with a new hose. They mentioned that they would have to replace the radiator fluid.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

It must have been oil seal failure. it will leak and leak until repaired!

It's pretty easy DIY! (well, I learned the hardway LOL, as I destroyed a set of oil seal, water seal and bearing).

Oil should not be leaked out otherwise it oil seal failure allows oil leaks through the weep hole and drips down wherever you are seeing it now.

I knew it since I messed up my water rebuild, I installed the oil seal improperly. That caused the oil got into the weep hole and leaked out there.

Save yourself, get the oil seal, water seal, orings and replace those. (in order to install the oil seal correctly, water seal must be removed so can't be re-used!).

You actually can do this by youself, $60 parts order + $10 prestone 50/50 , 2hr-4hr to be done (hard part is to assemble or punch in the water seal and bearing..). My local shop asked me for $300 + parts (others asked for $150 with your own parts)...

Good luck!

I removed the lower cowl and cleaned the area with a pressure washer, rode the bike a bit and it's definately leaking oil. A very slow drip.

Eventually, the undercarriage and side of the bike will look like this so I have scheduled an oring replacement for the water pump, along with a new hose. They mentioned that they would have to replace the radiator fluid.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

The service dept was saying that since there is no coolant, there is no reason to take apart the water seal? It's just oil. If coolant was leaking, then there would be additional problems.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The service dept was saying that since there is no coolant, there is no reason to take apart the water seal? It's just oil. If coolant was leaking, then there would be additional problems.

The coolant and water seal is the same thing. It keeps the coolant in the system.

With pulling off that lower hose (most likely for replacement), the coolant will drain out and should be replaced. The engine oil is NOT affected.

The OIL SEAL is still not fixed and needs replacement. The pump has to have the hoses removed, unbolted from the engine, and taken apart to replace at least the oil seal.

The main bearing, seals, etc are right there. Popping it out and replacing those parts, especially with the miles on that engine, is a no brainer.


2006 Yamaha FZ-6 (FZS6V) Water Pump | Babbitts Online

Part #3 is the OIL seal, the bearing(part #2) and the retaining circlip HAS TO COME out to get to the oil seal, IT'LL ALREADY BE OUT..

As for the mechanical seal(part #4), that's the heart of the pump, change that out...

 

[VEGASRIDER]

The main bearing, seals, etc are right there. Popping it out and replacing those parts, especially with the miles on that engine, is a no brainer.

That's what I'm afraid of when they open it up. Wonder how much the bearing cost? Is it the $10 part?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's what I'm afraid of when they open it up. Wonder how much the bearing cost? Is it the $10 part?

Yepper! I was busy snipping that above page, transfering to photobucket, then loading here.

As you can see, there's NOT much to the pump. With that parts fisch in hand(with prices), you may want to question the prices or seek prices elsewhere. Show them that you are familiar (with your pic) and Know its NOT a 3 hour job..

Many of those parts, PER the Yamaha shop manual, should NOT BE RE-USED.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

The service dept was saying that since there is no coolant, there is no reason to take apart the water seal? It's just oil. If coolant was leaking, then there would be additional problems.

Since the shop/dealer's shown some kind lack of knowledge about the Yamaha FZ6 water pump, I suggest you should get the bike home, order the parts and do it yourself!

My words: follow the services manual steps by steps,,,carefully - and you are talking with me, a guy just messed up a set of full water pump rebuild parts but managed to repair it after all!, I'm here to help! hehehe (I have a sample broken water pump at home,,,when I get home I will take some pictures to show you how it's easy to rebuild your water pump!)

The only way to remove the oil seal is to remove the water seal. Once the water seal is removed, it can't be reused because it's required to use brute force (lol - sound like computer attack worm) to punch that water seal out = damage it in the end!

You can however save the bearing , leave it alone, push the oil seal out from the bearing side.

The new oil seal must be pushed in from the water seal side - why? = the oil seal needs to push all the way until it's contacted the surface of bearing EVENLY! That's why the oil can block the oil to get into the weep hole or prevent the oil leak through weep hole. If oil's leaked through weep hole, it's oil seal failure! (oil seal surface with spring face to oil source or bearing - Thanks FI!)

Then it's required to use the new water seal - try to re-use the water seal = risk to get water into the engine ...and you know it's not an engine any more once coolant gets into it!

There is no better way to install the new oil seal without damaging the water seal!

Good luck!

 

[VEGASRIDER]

I'm not a wrencher, I can barely change a light bulb. $100 to replace the hose, flush and replace coolant and to stop the leak, not too bad. I live within walking distance to a Yamaha dealership, so I will drop it off in the evening and pick it up in the morning. It's a dealership that only sells and services Yamaha, no other brands.