installing rear wheel, hub balance?

Q

qhrjsdl

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
atlanta
Visit site
i changed rear sprocket but wheel is straight but wheel hub is not straight perfectly..

look at the rear sprocket. doesn't spin straight.. is it ok? if it is not, what do i need to do ?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7uqO9bMtbY]fz6 real wheel hub balance?? - YouTube[/ame]
 
I'm assuming the old sprocket was worn, but did you notice if the old one was not turning true?

Did you tighten the sprocket nuts in a CRISS CROSS pattern and torque to spec's? There is a bearing inside the sprocket hub that can be bad, (I had one go out on my old KLR but haven't seen any on this forum go out)...

The axle could be bent, not likely but worth checking... Also, recheck the rubber inserts and make sure their installed properly. I found again, on my old KLR, the rear sprocket ran straighter when the hub was clocked in a certain position to the wheel itself..

BTW, if you can post the year of your bike, in some cases it does make a difference, there were some changes significant changes between 06 and 07
 
Thank you. it is 06 fz6 15k miles. i tighted cross pattern. but i didnt use torque wrench.

i checked it, the hub is not straight spinning, that's why sprocket does either.

some thing problem with hub damper... don't you think so?
 
Watching the video it seems that the wheel is running true and it is just the sprocket wobbling. I would pull the sprocket back off and make sure there isn't any trash between it and where it bolts up, for as little wobble as it has it could be something as small as a piece of dirt between it.
 
ChevyFazer said:
Watching the video it seems that the wheel is running true and it is just the sprocket wobbling. I would pull the sprocket back off and make sure there isn't any trash between it and where it bolts up, for as little wobble as it has it could be something as small as a piece of dirt between it.
Click to expand...

+1 on the above.

If that doesn't work, a new hub bearing may be in order. If the chain was adjusted too tight, it may have, over time, worn out that bearing.

As noted earlier, my old KLR with 1/4 the HP of the FZ6 wore out that bearing causing the same issue. That bearing carries the tension/torque from the engine thru the chain to the rear wheel...
 
Don't let your eyes deceive you! Just because the chain is wondering back and forth that doesn't mean the sprocket or hub are whacked.

Can you put a dial indicator on the hub and turn it by hand to actually measure the runout? If you find run out; pull it apart and make certain nothing is under the sprocket and nothing is pinched in the inner bearing keep the drive flange from seating all the way down into the wheel.
 
I don't see this being a bearing issue.

Stick a pencil on the swing arm so the lead just touched the sprocket. The Pencil will be parallel to the axle and the tip just inside of the sprockets teeth. By hand, turn the wheel and and get an idea of the run out (assuming most folks don't have a dial indicator). Does it touch in some areas and not in others. Mark it so you have a start / stop location and spin it around.

Does the sprocket have variation? Is it stamped or machined? I don't see either being damaged in shipping or making it through the manuf quality system but who knows. I'd guess a 2 part machined one is more likely to have faults than a single piece or stamped and ground piece like the OEM.

Like I said above, I bet the chain is misguiding you and sprocket is true. That said it comes to tracking issue --> = wheel alignment issue. Fix the wheel alignment and the chain will follow a true course.
 
When I look at the video, I do see the chain moving a bit on its own (normal sideways slop). It also appears the sprocket is NOT RUNNING TRUE...

What is/was the tension of the chain prior?

I'd like to see some pic's as Finalimpact stated using a pencil mark showing any highs or lows on the sprocket.

My KLR did the exact same thing, a new hub bearing fixed it... The sprocket was fine..
 
Last edited:
qhrjsdl said:
Thank you. it is 06 fz6 15k miles. i tighted cross pattern. but i didnt use torque wrench.

i checked it, the hub is not straight spinning, that's why sprocket does either.

some thing problem with hub damper... don't you think so?
Click to expand...


The bearing and the rubber dampeners hold the hub assembly (and the sprocket) true when bolted up (that is with a straight axle).

If you want to narrow it down, you can also pull the chain off the rear sprocket, snug her down and spin it again slowly by hand. Do the pencil marking as noted above or clamp down a piece of hanger wire to a short stool and put it JUST TOUCHING the sprocket and find the highs and low's, if any. You can measure with a feeler gauge the run out if any...
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
The bearing and the rubber dampeners hold the hub assembly (and the sprocket) true when bolted up (that is with a straight axle).

If you want to narrow it down, you can also pull the chain off the rear sprocket, snug her down and spin it again slowly by hand. Do the pencil marking as noted above or clamp down a piece of hanger wire to a short stool and put it JUST TOUCHING the sprocket and find the highs and low's, if any. You can measure with a feeler gauge the run out if any...
Click to expand...

uhm - I don't think the rubber do anything to hold it true - just cushion the rotational load imposed by the chain!
 
- I triple your uhm and say that big nut on the axle will tell Mr rubber to get the hell over it. For reference mine appears to have enough "extra room" inside that I could slide a US dime in on both sides and have room.

The rubber will get squished and not perform as intended but I say the rubber shock dampeners do nothing to align the drive assembly. That's all fixed by the machined parts. Now getting something solid in next to the hubs bearing race and wheel bearing would raise hell but I doubt this is applicable here.

I think its the just the chain. We need a different angle to actually SEEEEEEEE the sprocket wobble. That only shows the chains tracking.
 
FinalImpact said:
- I triple your uhm and say that big nut on the axle will tell Mr rubber to get the hell over it. For reference mine appears to have enough "extra room" inside that I could slide a US dime in on both sides and have room.

The rubber will get squished and not perform as intended but I say the rubber shock dampeners do nothing to align the drive assembly. That's all fixed by the machined parts. Now getting something solid in next to the hubs bearing race and wheel bearing would raise hell but I doubt this is applicable here.

I think its the just the chain. We need a different angle to actually SEEEEEEEE the sprocket wobble. That only shows the chains tracking.
Click to expand...

4 uhms, read the third post, the HUB is wobbling too as the poster observed and noted...

+1 on a better angle on the camera, although, to me the chain is definitly going back and forth I see some wobble in the sprocket. I can spin mine and the chain pretty much doesn't wobble and my sprocket is dead straight.
 
My hub bearing went out a couple of weeks ago. Made a clicking and clacking noise that kind of went with the chain noise as the chain was dirty. Swapped it out and all is good. When re-assenbling and installing the rear wheel was careful to make sure everything went back together properly. My bike has 33,000 miles on it so that may have been part of the problem. The bearing made a fair bit of noise on the bike when everything was torqued down but made very little when spinning just the hub.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Need Help Rear break disk rubbing on caliper carrier
Replies
13
Views
462
fz610
F
N
Question Whining noise after changing chain and sprockets - normal?
Replies
8
Views
607
niallmul
N
H
Timing wheel bolt
Replies
2
Views
730
fazil
fazil
Athosch97
Chain tension too much at certain point?
Replies
13
Views
851
Gary in NJ
Gary in NJ
R
On-off throttle knocking in gear
Replies
11
Views
1K
TownsendsFJR1300
TownsendsFJR1300
Back
Top