hazy
Junior Member
I'm going to hit the 1000km benchmark soon.Is is really neccessary to do a throttle bodies sync?For those who had done their throttle bodies sync at 1000km,is the sync really off the chart that adjustment need to be make?
Insight on synchronizing throttle bodies?
- Thread starter Tailgate
- Start date
Fred
M em b er e d
You won't hurt anything by not synching them. The two Fizzer's I've synched were not that far off.
Fred
Fred
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Have a quick question regarding plug misfires? Would one be obvious to the listener at idle or speed?
pkoosa
Senior Member
typically, yes.
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Would it sound like a popping sound coming out of the exhaust, as if one cylinder wasn't firing? Would a rough idle be a symptom? Fred recommended checking the plugs because I'm still get vibrations despite taking it to another shop and them telling me the bike is running great. I'm debating on whether I should, considering all four pipes are getting hot and the bike sounds fine going down the road. Plus, the tb sync is spot on. As you know, checking the plugs is a pain in the arse and time consuming.
pkoosa
Senior Member
Yes and yes.
sfcali86
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ill be taking mine in for some fine tunning just to make sure all is working well
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Something you can do which may help. Pickup a non-contact infra red thermometer (I've seen them on sale at Northern, etc-not too $) and point in at each header pipe (close to the cylinder head) as its running (idle and maybe some revving). A non sparking cylinder (bad plug,wire,coil cap) will show a cooler running individual header pipe. It should help narrow down the propblem... If one cylinder not sparking, its literally running 25% under what it should be...
Scott
Scott
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Well, I finally got around to looking at the plugs. All plugs look like they're firing and firing well (light tan/greyish color). Also, you can see the electrodes are wearing a bit on each of them. This tells me all cyls are firing. I even checked the resistance on the coils and they all read pretty much the same. I did the old "touch the pipe" trick as the bike warmed up and it seems like all pipes are hot as hell as usual though cyl 1 took a bit longer to get as hot as the others. I wonder if its just running richer than the others though.
Called a local shop and asked them if there's a way to "reset" the carb sync. They told me I could bottom out the idle air screws, turn them all 2 1/2 turns out, then use the throttle linkage screws (not the idle air screws) to adjust the sync instead. This would be done by getting 1 and 2 to match, then 3 and 4, then matching 1/2 and 3/4 using the screw in between the 4 tb's.
Sound worth it? Any other ideas?
Called a local shop and asked them if there's a way to "reset" the carb sync. They told me I could bottom out the idle air screws, turn them all 2 1/2 turns out, then use the throttle linkage screws (not the idle air screws) to adjust the sync instead. This would be done by getting 1 and 2 to match, then 3 and 4, then matching 1/2 and 3/4 using the screw in between the 4 tb's.
Sound worth it? Any other ideas?
Fred
M em b er e d
Bad idea. Bottoming the screws and turning them back out, that's fine. But don't adjust the butterfly screws. Leave them as is. If you mess them up, you'll regret it.
Fred
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Very good. Glad I listened to myself on this one and left the butterfly screws alone. I did bottom the air screws out, turned them 2 1/2 turns out, and started the bike. Seemed like it warmed up and idled smoother. I'll take it for a test ride when I can, see if it fixed it.
I take it the next step now would be to do the sync again using the air screws then?
I take it the next step now would be to do the sync again using the air screws then?
Fred
M em b er e d
Yup, you got it.
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Vibe signatures changed but it's still vibing like crazy. I tried turning the screws in 1/2 turn, no change. Is there an easy way to be damn sure the plugs are all firing and the coils are not bad? A resistance check on the coils yielded equal values amongst all of them, so that doesn't seem to be it. The plugs all appeared to be firing, and the pipes are all getting hot.
Would an infrared thermometer at the pipes tell the full story? Are they $$$? If the sync gauge says everything is level at idle and 5k, shouldnt that mean it is syncd and I should just leave it alone? Can the bike be synced and still vibe and the problem be a misadjusted sync (i.e. screws not in the proper place)? I'm running out of ideas on this damn bike and I'm thinking of trading it if I can't fix this problem.
Would an infrared thermometer at the pipes tell the full story? Are they $$$? If the sync gauge says everything is level at idle and 5k, shouldnt that mean it is syncd and I should just leave it alone? Can the bike be synced and still vibe and the problem be a misadjusted sync (i.e. screws not in the proper place)? I'm running out of ideas on this damn bike and I'm thinking of trading it if I can't fix this problem.
pkoosa
Senior Member
Seem like a bad vacuum leak. To see if the plug is firing you can plug out one wire at a time, place one of your old ones in and ground the electrode to the valve cover. Crank the ignition, you'll see sparks if it's firing.
Fred
M em b er e d
At this point, I haven't a clue. What you're doing should have worked.
Bruce McCrary
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I know you guys have been all around this but...
I had the FJR at the shop for some warranty work that was called for and while we had it in I asked the guys to check the throttle body sync just for giggles and grins. They used mercury tubes and found that while they were out of sync they were within spec. They got them set evenly and I swear the bike is smoother and there is a ton less 'buzziness' in the bars.
FWIW...
Bruce
I had the FJR at the shop for some warranty work that was called for and while we had it in I asked the guys to check the throttle body sync just for giggles and grins. They used mercury tubes and found that while they were out of sync they were within spec. They got them set evenly and I swear the bike is smoother and there is a ton less 'buzziness' in the bars.
FWIW...
Bruce
rfkicker2000
Junior Member
Educating myself on how this particular FI system works, it seems like the TPS should be fine since I did not move the butterfly valves. Also, I'm quite sure the plugs are fine considering I've put 600+ miles on it since I checked the plugs and there's no reason to believe they are misfiring. Bike runs fine, all exhaust pipes are hot, and its got plenty of power. It still vibrates like crazy though.
Since the 3rd tb air screw was the reference and I friggen messed with it, it seems to be the cause of all this mess and I must find a way to reset it. Another trip to the shop this week (due to a flat rear tire on my way to work, #!$!#@!) yielded an interesting response. The mechanic says there's no way to reset it unless I ship the tb's back to Yamaha to be put on a flow bench and recalibrated.
This would explain why I should have never touched that screw. However, I do have a procedure that MAY locate the factory spec for that 3rd screw. Here's my plan:
1. Turn all screws in until they bottom out
2. Turn 3rd screw out 1/8 turn at a time
3. Turn screws 1, 2, and 4 out to match 3's reading
4. Reset idle and repeat, checking for vibes at each step
There must be a point where you find that "sweet spot" with the 3rd screw that will eliminate the vibes considerably. If there isn't, I've got to deal with it. The bike is simply not comfortable to ride and I fear engine damage could result from all this vibration.
This plan sound reasonable?
Since the 3rd tb air screw was the reference and I friggen messed with it, it seems to be the cause of all this mess and I must find a way to reset it. Another trip to the shop this week (due to a flat rear tire on my way to work, #!$!#@!) yielded an interesting response. The mechanic says there's no way to reset it unless I ship the tb's back to Yamaha to be put on a flow bench and recalibrated.
This would explain why I should have never touched that screw. However, I do have a procedure that MAY locate the factory spec for that 3rd screw. Here's my plan:
1. Turn all screws in until they bottom out
2. Turn 3rd screw out 1/8 turn at a time
3. Turn screws 1, 2, and 4 out to match 3's reading
4. Reset idle and repeat, checking for vibes at each step
There must be a point where you find that "sweet spot" with the 3rd screw that will eliminate the vibes considerably. If there isn't, I've got to deal with it. The bike is simply not comfortable to ride and I fear engine damage could result from all this vibration.
This plan sound reasonable?
Last edited:
Fred
M em b er e d
How much would it cost to ship the throttle bodies back to Yamaha?
I don't think anyone in this thread has an R6, so there's a lot of guessing happening here as to what's going on with your throttle bodies.
Can you take some pictures of the throttle bodies, edit them to point out all the screws that you have adjusted, and post them here? That would help, and maybe we can come up with some good advice based on that.
At the end of the day, this is an FZ6 forum, and the R6 is different enough that we're flying a little blind. Happy to help, but not 100% sure of what you're looking at when you lift up the tank.
I don't think anyone in this thread has an R6, so there's a lot of guessing happening here as to what's going on with your throttle bodies.
Can you take some pictures of the throttle bodies, edit them to point out all the screws that you have adjusted, and post them here? That would help, and maybe we can come up with some good advice based on that.
At the end of the day, this is an FZ6 forum, and the R6 is different enough that we're flying a little blind. Happy to help, but not 100% sure of what you're looking at when you lift up the tank.
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Something that just came to mind and may be worth looking into. On one of the FJR forums I frequent ( FJR Forum (Powered by Invision Power Board) ) someone also had a problem with vibrations even after doing a throttle sync, tightening engine mounts, TPS, etc.
The shop eventually contacted Yamaha, there was a specific procedure to tighten the frame to engine mounting bolts. I don't recall if it was right side first, then left, but in either case it worked for this guys bike....
I'd try a search on the FJR forum or contact a reputable dealer or perhaps Yamaha themselves.... It may be a different procedure/torque value than the FJR.
Scott
The shop eventually contacted Yamaha, there was a specific procedure to tighten the frame to engine mounting bolts. I don't recall if it was right side first, then left, but in either case it worked for this guys bike....
I'd try a search on the FJR forum or contact a reputable dealer or perhaps Yamaha themselves.... It may be a different procedure/torque value than the FJR.
Scott
