I'm building my own manometer for TB sync...

[FIZZER6]

I'm debating whether to spend extra time taking pictures and creating a good writeup for how to build a manometer and how to do the throttle body sync on the fZ6 using it.

Would a writeup covering these items benefit this site and the FZ6 community?

 

[Pimpson]

I'd vote for "I already made my own manometer but I'm too lazy to do a write up"

 

[FIZZER6]

Excellent. I'll take some pictures and may have questions for you before I complete the writeup!

 

[motojoe122]

Great idea! I'd love to make a tool to work on my bike. :thumbup: Looking forward to seeing it!
Joe

 

[Pimpson]

Excellent. I'll take some pictures and may have questions for you before I complete the writeup!

Sounds good. I'm really happy with how mine came out. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. You really can't beat the price (less than $15). I'd say my biggest issue was where to store it when not using it.

 

[chomorro]

Sounds good. I'm really happy with how mine came out. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. You really can't beat the price (less than $15). I'd say my biggest issue was where to store it when not using it.

Sell it to someone for $20 . it could be the forums recycle program. One person uses it and then sells it to the next guy to use LOL. When you need it again it gets back to you hahaaha

 

[FIZZER6]

the vacuum restrictors and F-connectors I am lacking to finish my manometer have just shipped! I'll be doing this next week. :thumbup:

I'm really hoping throttle body sync has something to do with my terrible cold idle and might help the vibrations at 6-7K.

 

[Pimpson]

the vacuum restrictors and F-connectors I am lacking to finish my manometer have just shipped! I'll be doing this next week. :thumbup:

I'm really hoping throttle body sync has something to do with my terrible cold idle and might help the vibrations at 6-7K.

I had a hard time finding enough of those as well. I kept striking out at auto parts stores. I ended up finding everything I needed at a pet store in the Aquarium supplies.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yep. Most of my supplies for mine came from Petsmart. Go figure. I had used oil even, so I just used that.

 

[GTPAddict]

I'm looking forward to see how this is done. I had thought about buying one just today as a matter of fact. I've seen where people sync the carbs at idle, then again at 4000 RPM (as seen in the vid below), but when coming back to idle after the 4000 RPM adjustment, it looks like it did before any changes. I haven't looked at the setup, but is it possible to sync at idle using the air screws, and then at 4000 RPM be adjusting the position of each throttle blade? This may be a terrible idea, I don't know. I've never adjusted carbs/throttle bodies before...

Here is a link I found to the youtube vid on syncing the throttle bodies on a FZ6 -> [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmLwyAPMBLI]‪How to synchronize your throttle bodies.‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

 

[DownrangeFuture]

You don't adjust the butterfly valves (the blades you called them) on a fuel injected setup. The valves are fully closed at idle. All of the fuel/air goes through the bypass and you fine tune either the air or the fuel. Which depends on the bike/car.

Carbs will have a slight opening at idle all the time. You only adjust the air flow at idle. Fuel is sucked up into the air by vacuum caused by the venturi effect. Assuming your jets are clean and the right size, fuel will roughly be sucked up at the right ratio.

Yamaha says to adjust all four to even at idle, then turn the idle screw up to 1250RPM. When you turn the idler, it always makes 1 and 4 go up a bit. Readjust untill that's minimal. Call it done.

Adding the last sync at 4k is optional, and not in the manual. And you have to blip it at each adjustment to let it settle.

 

[Tailgate]

Well, I just evacuated and replenished my Motion Pro manometer with new fluid. It seems, that after having not used it for about 2-3 years, the fluid became gelled or something. I ended up having a bunch of gaps that wouldn't move depite me following Motion Pro instructions. I ordered new fluid off Motion Pro's website. The fluid rebuild kit is about $7.00 (+shipping). I have to say, the Motion Pro manometer, after having had to disassemble it, seems not worth so much. But, hey, I still am saving a bundle over having a dealer (gulp) do it.

 

[FIZZER6]

I have completed the construction of my manometer! Looks great.

Writeup to follow!

 

[Kaisersoze]

I'm looking forward to see how this is done. I had thought about buying one just today as a matter of fact. I've seen where people sync the carbs at idle, then again at 4000 RPM (as seen in the vid below), but when coming back to idle after the 4000 RPM adjustment, it looks like it did before any changes. I haven't looked at the setup, but is it possible to sync at idle using the air screws, and then at 4000 RPM be adjusting the position of each throttle blade? This may be a terrible idea, I don't know. I've never adjusted carbs/throttle bodies before...

I would say thats a big no-no. The manual says that if you screw with that you mess up the flow of air or something to that nature and the only way to re-adjust it is to ship it back to yamaha factory and they have to adjust on a "flow stand?" Either way its not recommended.

One more tip for adjusting, I brought my bike in for service (not relating to TBs) and my mechanic saw that I had the idle air screws almost all the way out. He recommended you screw them all in and than turn #1 a 3/4 turn out and adjust the others accordingly. Good luck with your sync. :rockon:

 

[FIZZER6]

One more tip for adjusting, I brought my bike in for service (not relating to TBs) and my mechanic saw that I had the idle air screws almost all the way out. He recommended you screw them all in and than turn #1 a 3/4 turn out and adjust the others accordingly. Good luck with your sync. :rockon:

Interesting. What does the FZ6 service manual recommend? Anyone know? My thought was that #1 was never touched since the factory so I am just going to sync 2-4 to match #1 and then adjust the idle to ~1300 and call it a day.

 

[phranK2k11]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

c'mon pics and how-to

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yardstick, oil, clear(ish) tubing, and 4 air hose splices. Wrap the tubes cut about 10-12 feet long each around the yardstick so the tubes make a "U" around the outsides. That gives you marks to measure buy. Stick 2 of the ends in oil. Suck on the other ends to pull in a little bit of oil. Ideally only 6-8 inches up the yardstick when settled. The biggest thing is that they have to have the same amount of oil.

Hang up manometer for a couple of hours to let the oil settle and release any air you managed to get trapped in the oil. Put the aquarium air hose splices on the ends and plug it up to the bike. Never leave one end off while one is plugged in. It will take half a second to suck that oil into your engine.

Step 3: Profit.

Once you get all four lined up the first time shut the bike off and swap hoses 2 and 3. It shouldn't change the levels. Then adjust idle and adjust again if needed.

Walkthrough completed. I don't know how he made his, but that's the simplest way I've found. Using a bigger tube will make the jumps more stable. But you'll need to find a step down adaptor. I used 3/4' hose with a 1/8' barb and I used two yard sticks.

Tubing is measured in the outside diameter. Barbs are measured against what size hose they'll make a air tight seal with. So a hose will usually be measured like this: 3/4x1/8x25"
That's the size of the OD/the thickness of the hose material/the length. To measure the exact amount of oil you need...

V = PI*R^2*H

3/4' = 1.905cm
1/8' = 0.317cm

1.905-0.317 = 1.588cm diameter of the hollow area.

V = PI * 0.794cm^2 * 61cm (just over 2 feet of oil)

V = 120.814cm

Round that off to 121cm and you'll need .121L or 12.1mL of oil. I personally converted to cm, because 1000cubic centimeters is 1 liter. Neat huh? Things aren't so simple on the english side.

 

[FIZZER6]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

c'mon pics and how-to

Pics are coming Friday morning...I have them on multiple cameras and half of them are at home.

 

[FIZZER6]

The writeup is here!
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/39891-build-your-own-manometer-throttle-body-sync.html

This is one of the most worthwhile $20 and 2 hours I've ever spent on this bike! :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per the manual, the bike should be warmed up and at idle (12-1300 RPM's). #1 screw is NOT ADJUSTED, adjust the rest to bring them within spec (10mm). Depending on the bike, you can usally get them MUCH CLOSER (mines at 2-3 mm's difference).

Although the manual doesn't call for it, I re-check AND adjust at 4,000 RPM's as thats where a good amount if buzz comes in at. I let it idle down and re-adjust if necessary. You'd be really surprised how far out it can be at 4K and look level at idle. Beyond 4K, the throttle blades are open a bit so your really not dealing with that circuit anymore. Its pretty easy to get the engine within 3mm's at both idel and 4k RPM's. I doubt most dealerships would do that as time is money, heck its within 10mm at idle, button her up and collect $!

As for the butterfly screw on the FZ, there's only ONE, inbetween TWO sets of TB's that should NOT be touched.

Just as a side note, on my old FJR, it had FOUR separate TB's and of course butterfly adjustment screws inbetween them (again don't adjust those). The adjustment springs actually have a spot of white paint on them. Adjustment to the TB's are the same as the FZ but at each TB vs the one block the FZ has.

I had paid a Yamaha dealership, years ago to sync the bike (over $125). I later found one of the painted, do NOT ADJUST screws, with painted spring adjusted approx 1/8 of a turn... GD it! Pay an Yamaha mechanic to do a proper sync and that's what you get.

Got my Carb mate for the FZ (to eliminate some buzz). Reset the FJR spring BACK TO stock (the paint mark lined back up) and re-synced the engine properly. A review: http://www.ridermagazine.com/gear/morgans-carbtune-pro-mechanical-manometer-review.htm/

That is exactly why I won't go to the dealership unless absolutly necessary. I actually wouldn't even go there, there's a local guy I trust vs being a "Yamaha trained" newbie, lazy mechanic screwing my bike up. There are plenty of good mechanic's out there, just got to find them..

BTW, couldn't vote as the option wasn't there, my Carbtune was $82 delivered from England 3-17-09