idle speed question, not stupid

[kart]

So today I finally decided to go full synthetic. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. Filled 3 full bottles and changed the oil filter too. When I started the bike up, the idle 'seemed' kinda low. Hovering around 1000 rpm as I read standing next to the bike. And the bike kinda sound like it's sputtering. So I adjusted to what I thought was between 1250-1350rpm and the engine sounded better. I was standing when I read the gauge. However, when I lowered my head to be 'parallel' with the gauge, that reading was more like 1500 rpm. So the reading depends on the angle (where your head is). So the question is, how do you correctly read the readings? Should I be sitting, standing, putting my face right in front of the gauge?

Also, another question is does going from convention oil to synthetic affect engine idle, and if so why?

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Did you let the engine fully warm up first before you reset the idle?.... There is nothing magical about synthetic oil... It's just oil that is a little better.... Now go out and ride your bike before you catch "oil nerd" syndrome so many people seem to get from owning motorcycles...:spank:

 

[Humperdinkel]

Did you let the engine fully warm up first before you reset the idle?....

That was gunna be my first question :thumbup:

 

[kart]

Uh, ok....strange responses.

I'm no newbie, I did warmed up the engine. Before I changed the oil I rode for half an hour. And right after the oil change I warmed the engine about 5 more minutes. The engine was fully warmed up believe me.

You guys didn't even answer my first question, which is what is the correct way to read the rpm (I got a second generation and don't have the digital tach).

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Uh, ok....strange responses.

I'm no newbie, I did warmed up the engine. Before I changed the oil I rode for half an hour. And right after the oil change I warmed the engine about 5 more minutes. The engine was fully warmed up believe me.

You guys didn't even answer my first question, which is what is the correct way to read the rpm (I got a second generation and don't have the digital tach).

The idle range is somewhere from 1250 ~ 1350rpm... I just set mine by looking at the dash... I wasn't concerned with what obtuse angle I was viewing it from... What I am saying (not trying to be an ass here, either)... Don't over complicate things that don't need over complicating... Just set it and forget it... Things like idle speed and such don't require perfection...

 

[kart]

The idle range is somewhere from 1250 ~ 1350rpm... I just set mine by looking at the dash... I wasn't concerned with what obtuse angle I was viewing it from... What I am saying (not trying to be an ass here, either)... Don't over complicate things that don't need over complicating... Just set it and forget it... Things like idle speed and such don't require perfection...

I'm sure it doesn't need to be perfect, but I would like it to at least at in the specification. If the manual say to be between 1250 - 1350 and I'm at 1500, then it's not ideal you will agree? Here's the problem, if I set it at what I believe (as sitting on the bike) to be 1250, it could actually be anywhere between 1250 & 1500. If I set it same way to 1000, it could be between 1000 & 1250.

I'm not trying to be smart and I know you're trying to help. I know you said it's not a big deal, but it is to me. WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO READ THE ANALOG TACH?

 

[CanadianFZ6]

I'm sure it doesn't need to be perfect, but I would like it to at least at in the specification. If the manual say to be between 1250 - 1350 and I'm at 1500, then it's not ideal you will agree? Here's the problem, if I set it at what I believe (as sitting on the bike) to be 1250, it could actually be anywhere between 1250 & 1500. If I set it same way to 1000, it could be between 1000 & 1250.

I'm not trying to be smart and I know you're trying to help. I know you said it's not a big deal, but it is to me. WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO READ THE ANALOG TACH?

Set it when you are viewing the dash from head on (90deg angle)... try and set it midway between 1000 and 1500... To me a range of 1200 to just south of 1400 is fine... If you are having idle issues (idle speed that constantly changes) it could mean a TPS problem....

 

[fz6Airman]

Can someone define TPS problem?

 

[Motogiro]

Can someone define TPS problem?

Throttle Position Sensor.

Additionally you might want to do or have done a throttle body sync. This is where you use a manometer (there are varies types) or accurate vacuum gauges to synchronize the throttle bodies which improves idle repeatability and throttle response.

 

[fz6Airman]

Thanks!!! Im sure i looked like a dumba**.. New to bikes so trying to gain a little knowledge.

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks!!! Im sure i looked like a dumba**.. New to bikes so trying to gain a little knowledge.

Not at all! And :welcome:to the forum! :rockon:

 

[RJ2112]

< before you catch "oil nerd" syndrome so many people seem to get from owning motorcycles...>

--golf clapping---

 

[RJ2112]

I'm sure it doesn't need to be perfect, but I would like it to at least at in the specification. If the manual say to be between 1250 - 1350 and I'm at 1500, then it's not ideal you will agree? Here's the problem, if I set it at what I believe (as sitting on the bike) to be 1250, it could actually be anywhere between 1250 & 1500. If I set it same way to 1000, it could be between 1000 & 1250.

I'm not trying to be smart and I know you're trying to help. I know you said it's not a big deal, but it is to me. WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO READ THE ANALOG TACH?

Just because I'm that 'old school'...

Reading a meter of any kind with a needle displaying over a background gauge allows for a thing called 'parallax error'. As Canadian stated, to get the most accurate reading you need to be as close to in line with the pivot of the needle as you can. You are in effect reading that in degrees of rotation.....

Way back in the day, precision analog meters used a reflective surface behind the needle so you could see when you weren't aligned correctly. If you could see 'two' needles, you were not lined up right.

http://www.simpson260.com/260-5/simpson_260-5m_01.jpg

 

[FinalImpact]

Just because I'm that 'old school'...

Reading a meter of any kind with a needle displaying over a background gauge allows for a thing called 'parallax error'. As Canadian stated, to get the most accurate reading you need to be as close to in line with the pivot of the needle as you can. You are in effect reading that in degrees of rotation.....

Way back in the day, precision analog meters used a reflective surface behind the needle so you could see when you weren't aligned correctly. If you could see 'two' needles, you were not lined up right.

Well said - are "WE" showing our age(s)? lol

On another topic - Just my 2 cents. Race oil is not meant to be used in daily drivers. Yes, you can and countless people DO but I would opt for NONE race blends that are designed for daily use or plan on changing it weekly/monthly regardless of miles.


From the M1 site:
Can I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 for street driving?

Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for everyday general street use where vehicles use catalytic exhaust converters.

Are Mobil 1 Racing oils compatible with a wet clutch engine?

These oils are not recommended for wet clutch applications due to their high level of molybdenum.

And yes, I knew that before I looked!

 

[FB400]

Well said - are "WE" showing our age(s)? lol

On another topic - Just my 2 cents. Race oil is not meant to be used in daily drivers. Yes, you can and countless people DO but I would opt for NONE race blends that are designed for daily use or plan on changing it weekly/monthly regardless of miles.


From the M1 site:
Can I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 for street driving?

Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for everyday general street use where vehicles use catalytic exhaust converters.

Are Mobil 1 Racing oils compatible with a wet clutch engine?

These oils are not recommended for wet clutch applications due to their high level of molybdenum.

And yes, I knew that before I looked!

Is the same Mobil1 as 4T racing? Been using that oil and is the best stuff I ever put in my bike. The clutch/shifting has never worked better than with the 4T oil

 

[iSteve]

Mobil 1 Racing and Mobil 1 Racing 4T are two different animals. 4T is for everyday street use.

 

[nksmfamjp]

You measure it with a tool which connects to the spark plug wire inductive or to the OBD 2 coupler with digital tach output.

I have a tool like [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3568-Digital-Inductive-Pick-Up/dp/B000EVYGV4"]this[/ame].

I also have an ultra-gauge too.

 

[FinalImpact]

Mobil 1 Racing and Mobil 1 Racing 4T are two different animals. 4T is for everyday street use.

^ Sorry - I missed the 4T on the OP.