KnuckleBallz
Junior Member
Noticed there was no video of this, so I made one. May be a good sticky.
Yamaha Fz6: How to Change Your Coolant - YouTube
Yamaha Fz6: How to Change Your Coolant - YouTube
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How To Change Coolant (Video)
- Thread starter KnuckleBallz
- Start date
Good stuff! I don't know if it's necessary to burp the system if you just replace fluid (without pulling any hoses), but it can't hurt.
Once you put new coolant in, run the bike with radiator cap off and watch the fluid. I had 2 very distinct *burps* .. air being pushed out of the system. You'll see some bubbles come up to the top. When the bike runs for a minute or so with no more air coming up, shut it off and put the cap on (being very careful, in case the radiator or fluid got hot enough to burn you.
Soap pump was a pretty cool trick :thumbup:
I pulled the container out.. which was time-consuming and not exactly easy.
Once you put new coolant in, run the bike with radiator cap off and watch the fluid. I had 2 very distinct *burps* .. air being pushed out of the system. You'll see some bubbles come up to the top. When the bike runs for a minute or so with no more air coming up, shut it off and put the cap on (being very careful, in case the radiator or fluid got hot enough to burn you.
Soap pump was a pretty cool trick :thumbup:
I pulled the container out.. which was time-consuming and not exactly easy.
KnuckleBallz
Junior Member
Thanks! I'll see about the burps.
I think I might've seen the soap thing on here actually, so thanks to whoever put that out there originally!
I think I might've seen the soap thing on here actually, so thanks to whoever put that out there originally!
raj_27
Junior Member
Very good timing i am about do a change coolant very soon. I don't have access to videos at work ,but will check it out when at home. Thanks very much.
ozgurakman
Özgür Akman
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Can I use Castrol Antifreeze NF?
How come some posts have a "Thanks" button you can click, and others do not? 
If the OP's post had one, I'd click it, instead I'll just say, Thanks! :thumbup:
If the OP's post had one, I'd click it, instead I'll just say, Thanks! :thumbup:
petergreko
limits are for suckers
I always burp the system. It takes all of two minutes with the bike running and just topping off on the radiator side once you get to 175 F or so. I'll find the link where the guy has about 7 (very simple) steps for changing coolant with water wetter. But only if you live in climates that don't need anti-freeze. <----VERY IMPORTANT
I'll post the link when I find it again. But great vid Knuckle!
I'll post the link when I find it again. But great vid Knuckle!
petergreko
limits are for suckers
Here's the link:
How to change coolant - Sportbikes.net
TEXT:
Here's my procedure which has worked for me every time:
1. Remove radiator cap.
2. Remove drain screw on water pump housing, drain coolant.
3. Replace screw, add 2 oz. Water Wetter to radiator and top off with tap water. LEAVE RADIATOR CAP OFF!
4. Using a wet/dry Shop-Vac, remove coolant from reservoir tank. Add 1 capful of Water Wetter to reservoir, top off reservoir to "Full" mark with tap water.
5. Start motor, let it idle until it reaches 2 bars on the display (or 170°F if you have an 2007 model). You want to warm the thermostat to open and circulate coolant through the radiator. Shut motor off.
6. Top off radiator with water if needed, close cap.
System has now been changed and bled of air, ready to ride. I have followed these basic steps on every water-cooled bike I have ever worked on with no problems at all.
How to change coolant - Sportbikes.net
TEXT:
Here's my procedure which has worked for me every time:
1. Remove radiator cap.
2. Remove drain screw on water pump housing, drain coolant.
3. Replace screw, add 2 oz. Water Wetter to radiator and top off with tap water. LEAVE RADIATOR CAP OFF!
4. Using a wet/dry Shop-Vac, remove coolant from reservoir tank. Add 1 capful of Water Wetter to reservoir, top off reservoir to "Full" mark with tap water.
5. Start motor, let it idle until it reaches 2 bars on the display (or 170°F if you have an 2007 model). You want to warm the thermostat to open and circulate coolant through the radiator. Shut motor off.
6. Top off radiator with water if needed, close cap.
System has now been changed and bled of air, ready to ride. I have followed these basic steps on every water-cooled bike I have ever worked on with no problems at all.
Adding - F/I always adding....
Don't forget to Clean the Filler neck and Inner Seat where the cap touches. Any debris can cause the system to fail to operate.
Details; For the cooling system to work it must be able to hold pressure and retain VACUUM. If either of these are not possible, it will not suck up fluid from the reservoir and purge itself of trapped air!!!
Lift up this SS flapper valve and clean under it. Clean the mating surface around the filler neck too!
As the system builds pressure - this valve (being lifted) is sealed shut. As the system cools, the internal pressure drops to a vacuum and the coolant gets dense again. As this happens air is allowed to vent and coolant from the reservoir can be sucked in into the cooling system. Its how it keeps itself full.
- Yet a tiny deposit of small debris can hold the valve open and allow the engine to dump its coolant and overflow the reservoir. Then you over heat!
Its the Heating AND Cooling "cycles" that purge the air filling the engine side w/coolant. AFTER REPAIRS - i.e. flushing, valve adjustment, hose replacement, do short runs allowing the bike to cool down. Then repeat!
Also - when hot if the system is holding pressure the larger hose will not squeeze easily! That's when its NOT safe to remove the cap!
Don't forget to Clean the Filler neck and Inner Seat where the cap touches. Any debris can cause the system to fail to operate.
Details; For the cooling system to work it must be able to hold pressure and retain VACUUM. If either of these are not possible, it will not suck up fluid from the reservoir and purge itself of trapped air!!!
Lift up this SS flapper valve and clean under it. Clean the mating surface around the filler neck too!
As the system builds pressure - this valve (being lifted) is sealed shut. As the system cools, the internal pressure drops to a vacuum and the coolant gets dense again. As this happens air is allowed to vent and coolant from the reservoir can be sucked in into the cooling system. Its how it keeps itself full.
- Yet a tiny deposit of small debris can hold the valve open and allow the engine to dump its coolant and overflow the reservoir. Then you over heat!
Its the Heating AND Cooling "cycles" that purge the air filling the engine side w/coolant. AFTER REPAIRS - i.e. flushing, valve adjustment, hose replacement, do short runs allowing the bike to cool down. Then repeat!
Also - when hot if the system is holding pressure the larger hose will not squeeze easily! That's when its NOT safe to remove the cap!
Max240
New Member
Just watched the video. You did the job so professionally. Pretty much helpful. Thanks.
