Headlight and Outlet Mod

stryken

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First off I want to thank BD43 for his headlight mod. I almost talked myself out of doing it his way and going the easy route but I didn't. I am so glad I did it BD43's way, cannot not tell I was ever there when it was finished. Since I already had all my tools out and I already had my tank up I decided to add a power outlet as well. I have seen many different ideas but I wanted something a little different, I have seen them on the bars but I didn't really want it that visible. Also have seen them on top of the fairing, which looks OK but I didn't like the idea of pressing down on that plastic over and over. So I had an idea and it actually work out wonderfully. It is extremely sturdy and you can press down on it very hard without it moving. I took a few pictures and thought I would share...

I started with this... I got it from Walmart for about $8.00

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Then I did a little prep work to it just to hide the cables in black tubing and used heat shrink to hold it all together. You will notice than in the picture I drilled a hole in the back of the outlet. The hole was drilled slightly smaller than the screw I used to go though then I just used the screw to tap the plastic. I thought I was going to have to use a nut on the inside but this plastic is tough and holds very well... and I did put some moderate pressure on while tightening it. If it loosens I can always add a nut.

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So as you can see I just used an hex bolt (allen) and a large washer painted black, the large washer is needed, go look at your bike and you will see why.

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For power I wanted an always on source so I went direct to the battery. Most of the work I did on the battery side was already done when I started snapping pictures and is hidden under the battery terminals. All I did was add a couple ring terminals on the ends of my wires going to the outlet and sandwiched them in between the bikes terminals and the battery when I reattached the battery. On the Positive side I added in a fuse holder and made it all look nice with heat shrink. In this picture you will see two extra fuses... they are just extras and fit nicely there so that's where I left them.

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And here is the package from Walmart for the fuse holder.

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And this is just a picture showing how much nicer it is having black conduit rather than multicolored wires running around everywhere.

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I already had the heat shrink and connectors so this entire job only cost me $10.00 and a good part of a day, but it was quality time. Just get out all your tools, grab a beverage and turn up the radio! FUN
 
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SovietRobot

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Looks good, that's some heavy duty sheathing on the outlet.

I noticed you only have 15A fuses on the main fuse block(on the battery)?
 

psnbye

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I did the bd43 headlight mod and I really like it, its awesome to have two lights on as you ride. I also put a 12 volt power point for my radio or gps. My set-up is not as professional as yours looks but it gets the job done I guess. Good job on the istall, good pics! :thumbup:
 

naeem

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Aargh! no pics - anyone have pics for putting in the cigarette lighter?

Am planning on doing this - next weekend.

Thx
 

stryken

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Aargh! no pics - anyone have pics for putting in the cigarette lighter?

Am planning on doing this - next weekend.

Thx

The pics used to be here but I think they got lost in a server crash or something like that, I will see if I can dig them up and repost them.
 

clrd_2_lnd

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Never have wired anything to a vehicle, so to make sure I have this right pos wire to pos terminal with 30a fuse and neg wire to neg terminal and thats how you grounded it?, is it easy to wire it up to turn on only when the key is in the on position, checked out the vid thats on the forum but its hard for me to understand what he is talking about. Would like to do the 2nd option.
 

stryken

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Never have wired anything to a vehicle, so to make sure I have this right pos wire to pos terminal with 30a fuse and neg wire to neg terminal and thats how you grounded it?, is it easy to wire it up to turn on only when the key is in the on position, checked out the vid thats on the forum but its hard for me to understand what he is talking about. Would like to do the 2nd option.

I would use a 15a fuse not 30 but otherwise yes that's about it. You can wire it up to come on when the key is on only but it will take a little more time. I am not familiar with the way to do the keyed outlet, you could also just put a switch on the outlet wire and be able to turn it off like that instead of though the ignition. I wanted a direct connect because I also use the outlet to connect my battery tender to the bike.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I would use a 15a fuse not 30 but otherwise yes that's about it. You can wire it up to come on when the key is on only but it will take a little more time. I am not familiar with the way to do the keyed outlet, you could also just put a switch on the outlet wire and be able to turn it off like that instead of though the ignition. I wanted a direct connect because I also use the outlet to connect my battery tender to the bike.

If you need a switched power source, for a GPS or something with a very light draw, tie into the front side marker running light wire, run your ground to the frame or negative side of the battery. It'll come on with the ignition. You should also have a fuse in-line as well.

If your going to draw much more power(heated vest, etc) use a relay wired direct to the battery (for main current draw, fused with a 15 amp fuse) and use the front side running marker light as the "trigger wire" for the relay. Then tie in your socket to the relay.

A Stebal air horn needs a 30 amp fuse to give you an idea and NEEDS a relay set up.
 

mongol777

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I guess this is power outlet of choice for FZ6 owners :)
Word of caution - when I first installed it this weekend I forgot to test it to see if right fork will touch it at full lock. Sure enough - it did. So had to unbolt it and move further (closer to headlight)
 

squirly

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Found this thread and I was glad to see the same plug and fuse wire I had purchased for this job. hubby made a bracket out of aluminum and it turned out great, i added carbon fiber stickers to mine to blacken it out and hide it some.
we have 6 more for sale if anyone wants one(see pictures ) 0.090 mils and all the rest of the supplies come from walmart. here are my pictures. my wiring isn't as clean because i also run heated gloves.
 

Lefty

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O.K. so I did this outlet mod following stryken's method in the 1st post. Same outlet, wired to the battery with an inline 15 amp fuse, mounted in the same place, etc. Went to try the gps accessory plug and nothing, no power to the gps, no little red light on on the accessory plug, nothing. Then I tried a portable 12 volt compressor that I usually plug into the 12 volt outlet in my car and voila, it fires right up. I'm like, wth?! So thinking that maybe the gps power plug just wasn't working I ordered two more. Got them home today and nothing on the bike but they work fine in my car's 12 volt outlet. :confused:
So thinking I'm a moron that has missed something can anybody point out what I may have missed in the equation?
Thanks!
 

Motogiro

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John,

First make sure you test the accessory plug with a volt meter to see that it has power and that you haven't blown a fuse. The center pin on the on the acc. plug should be positive. If it's not positive and the polarity is reversed the compressor will still work but the GPS will not. The GPS circuit may have diode protection and not pass current at reverse polarity.

There is also the possibility the GPS plug assembly is not making good contact for some reason.

So my first guess is possible reverse polarity. Center pin Positive...:D
 

Lefty

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I'll check in the morning Cliff, right now it's time to spend some non m/c, husband time with my wife.....;)
Thanks for the help. :thumbup:
 
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