Having problems shifting down when coming to a stop!!

[arnivi]

Hi guys, and girls

Im have been experiencing some problems shifting down when im coming to a complete stop. For example: Im driving down a street in 3d gear and arrive at a red light, I grab the clutch and shift down to 2nd, next I try to shift down to 1st, but nothing happens. I come to a complete stop and still I cant get the gearbox to 1st gear. No matter how much i pound on the shift lever nothing happens, even if I try to shift up and then down, I cant get it to first gear. Green light comes and i need to take of in 2nd gear. Sometimes this occurs, but i have to take of in 3rd gear, which is not very much fun!!!!

Well, i hope you understand what the f**k I´m talking about and have some good advise for me.

Regards,
Árni

 

[Tremulant]

Sounds really annoying...

I sometimes have a problem shifting through neutral into first when coming to a stop, but it's usually when I try to click through more than one gear without releasing the clutch. When this happens I just release the clutch and rev the throttle a tiny bit then pull the clutch back in and it shifts fine.

It sounds like your problem may be worse though...

 

[DaveOTZ]

I understand the issue and Im going to probably butcher the terminology (please excuse a newb)

We have a sequential (?) transmission, so when you shift you need to be moving, like on your old 12 speed...

letting out the clutch slightly will help you get out of a jam, I just make sure IM in first or neutral by the time I make it to the light

 

[SovietRobot]

You should be down shifting through the transmission and be letting out the clutch with each gear as you come to a stop, and you should be in first gear by the time you come to a complete stop.

You'll realize that it's a lot smoother if you're moving while you shift.

 

[cv_rider]

Numerous people have had this issue (including me). It was scary the first time it happened to me, as I was topping quickly on a backed up freeway, which then started moving again, but I kept stalling because I couldn't get into first. Do what Tremulant said - it will work every time. And it will never happen if you release the clutch with each downshift as SovietRobot said.

It has something to do with the gears not meshing properly when the wheel isn't turning, or something like that. It just seems to be a "feature" of this bike - it's not a specific problem on your bike.

 

[SANGER_A2]

I understand the issue and Im going to probably butcher the terminology (please excuse a newb)

We have a sequential (?) transmission, so when you shift you need to be moving, like on your old 12 speed...

letting out the clutch slightly will help you get out of a jam, I just make sure IM in first or neutral by the time I make it to the light

+1 to this. It's been said before, just release the clutch slowly till you hear a click. Then you can pull the clutch back in and shift down again. Repeat as necessary. Make sure you have the front or rear brake (front for preference) pulled in too.

 

[arnivi]

Thanks all off you guys for the quick response!!!

Sounds like you have the solution for my problem. It´s great to be able to get good advise from all of you experienced bikers! I will be trying to go after your advise when I go to work tomorrow morning, I´ll let you know how it goes:thumbup:

 

[n1one]

You might want to check the shift linkage to make sure it is adjusted correctly....

Good Luck.

 

[Jake]

Be in first gear BEFORE you stop and you'll be fine. DON"T get there too fast... in other words, don't drop to first while doing 40mph. I usually go to second until I'm about three seconds from stopping completely.

 

[The Toecutter]

I count the gears in my head .I allways know what gear I'm in.I pull the clutch when I'm braking and down shift to the appropriate gear while rolling.It's as simple as that.If you shift to a lower gear like second at 60mph be sure to throttle up before releasing the clutch to componsate for the compression braking that will occur.WHEW HAD TO SHAKE THAT OFF!! I need another Beer! :iconbeer:

 

[arnivi]

You might want to check the shift linkage to make sure it is adjusted correctly....

Good Luck.

Yeah I need to check out the adjustments of the shift linkage, I believe the source of my problem will be found there! I tried to do like all of you guys advised me to do, but I still couldnt get it to 1st. When I arrived home from work today I was in 4th! That was kinda tricky!

 

[wke4estguy]

Please PM me and let me know how you fix your problem arnivi, I was having the same problem today. It only happened after the engine got hot. I think the return spring in the transmission does not pull the shifter all the way up.
I was able to shift and get home by lightly pushing the shifter up and then shifting down between each shift.

I also noticed today that there is a howl between (47-53mph) when I am maintaining speed in that range. I haven't noticed id before. If I accelerate or decelerate, then the howl immediately stops, but if I pull in the clutch it gets much louder.
I just had the 8,000mi service done 300miles ago, oil changed (Amsoil 10W-40, full when I checked it)

 

[wke4estguy]

OK guys, I think I have reached the source of my problem and it was ridiculously simple... The douche-nozzles at the stealership didn't lube all the linkages as they should (evidence my side and center stand still creak when putting down and retracting) therefore, they did not lube my shift linkage. I pulled the rubber caps back und sure enough they were bone dry. I liberally applied WD-40 and now it snicks up (and down) pleasantly. I'll bring it back and get them to re-lube the things they were supposed to lube to begin with.

I have also come to the conclusion that the howl (47-55ish, in all gears, worsens when clutch is pulled in) I have been experiencing is from my chain which was recently tightened at the 8,000mi service.

 

[LERecords]

i dunno if wd 40 is a good "lube" for the bike.. anyone else want to chime in??

 

[dako81]

Don't slam your shifter, you could bend something in your transmission.

It also has to be moving to switch between gears.

 

[wke4estguy]

I agree the WD-40 isn't a good lube, that is my quick fix until I get the stealership to put some "lithium soap based grease" on it and fix the mess they started.

Ron Ayers Motorsports may sell parts and accessories at a good price, but their service dept has been sub-par thus far.

 

[Boneman]

i dunno if wd 40 is a good "lube" for the bike.. anyone else want to chime in??

Correct, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant!!! (deal with it people! )

WD-40 is a water-displacement spray. It was the 40th attempt at a formulation (hence the name WD-40), to displace water from rockets awaiting launch, and thus prevent pools of standing water and hinder corrosion. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen for the San Diego Rocket Company.

It’s primary constituent is a heavy, sticky, viscous oil. To help WD-40 get to where it’s needed this oil is diluted with lighter hydrocarbons which quickly evapourate.

The point is that WD-40 is excellent for displacing water and keeping it displaced and it’s excellent at penetrating. What it’s not good at is lubricating.

I have a Haynes manual for mountain bikes (yes they make maunals for bicycles too), and it pissed me off to no end that on just about every page of that manual, they show a picture of someone spraying something with WD-40. I think Haynes got some good $$$ from WD-40 as the prodcut placement shots of the spray can are amazing! They make sure to get it into every shot!

 

[LERecords]

damn bone, you are just full of information

 

[Boneman]

damn bone, you are just full of information

I'm full of something..... :thumbup:

 

[FizzySix]

Correct, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant!!! (deal with it people! )

It wasn't designed to be, but it can be - the oil that it leaves behind after the solvents evaporate is mineral oil according to the MSDS. If mineral oil is a good lubricant for the task at hand (e.g. tools, the kids' bicycles, etc) then WD-40 is a fine choice. For instances where mineral oil would not be the right lube (e.g. the chain or the ignition keyhole on our motorcycles) then WD-40 is not a good lubricant. Depends on the application.

It wasn't designed to remove crayon from surfaces that aren't meant to be drawn on either, but it works great for that purpose (unfortunately, I know...)