Ticking/winding noise when decelerating

Domonics

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Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area's (Or to much), anyhow,

Hey everyone!

New member here. I am having a strange issue. My 2005 FZ6 is making a noise like the ones in this forum:

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/56173-fz6-2006-knokcing-sound-when-rpms-go-down.html

There was never a resolution to this issue. The sound only is apparent after riding for about 30 minutes after everything is nice and warm. It makes the noise with the clutch in or out. The noise is most audible when engine breaking or when i rev and let off the throttle.in 1st, 2nd, and neutral (its probably making the noise in higher gears but hard to hear because of wind) Only seems to happen at the lower end of the deceleration, and happens in second and first when engine breaking on the higher end of the gear. and then in neutral after reving it and letting the RPMS drop back down.

I just replaced my oil and cam chain tensioner on the bike and did not notice anything abnormal or strange in the oil. I am thinking I may not have noticed the sound before because of the noise from the bad CCT?

I have put a pencil up to different parts of the motor and im having a hard time locating where exactly the noise is coming from. The closest i can get is that its coming from the left side by where the gear selector goes into the engine? or its coming from the left side between where the transmission and the pistons are in that little canyon. (if that makes sense)

The closest thing i can compare it to is it sounds like someone running their fingers on a plastic comb or the sound a diverter valve on a car makes when it is redirecting pressure (tingy knock unwinding noise)

Any ideas on what this could be?

I know many members have had the same issue and some say its a crank bearing (I should be able to hear it on start up right?)

Any advice or guidance would be extremely helpful.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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I've never read of a crank bearing going out in the 10 years I've been here...Lower end rod bearings either.

How many miles on the engine, how has it been maintained?

That video is about useless, please make one of your own.

A worn cam chain and tensioner WILL make a racket and echo inside the engine. Higher mileage engines will obviously tend to have more wear.


Your positive it's the rotating engine and not a DRIVE chain too tight (need 2" total up and down on a clean chain) that's NOT WORN OUT..
Please post a pic of your drive chain/sprockets and the miles on them..

Ticking could be injectors.

Could have loose valves, again the mileage and were they ever checked?

Some more info please..
 

Domonics

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I've never read of a crank bearing going out in the 10 years I've been here...Lower end rod bearings either.

How many miles on the engine, how has it been maintained?

That video is about useless, please make one of your own.

A worn cam chain and tensioner WILL make a racket and echo inside the engine. Higher mileage engines will obviously tend to have more wear.


Your positive it's the rotating engine and not a DRIVE chain too tight (need 2" total up and down on a clean chain) that's NOT WORN OUT..
Please post a pic of your drive chain/sprockets and the miles on them..

Ticking could be injectors.

Could have loose valves, again the mileage and were they ever checked?

Some more info please..

The bike has been maintained very well over its life. When I did the oil change there wasnÂ’t anything alarming. It has 22,383 miles. My cam chain tensioner was replaced as of two days ago with a brand new oem cct and I am 99.99% sure I installed it correctly. There are three videos in my drop box. One on the right side of the bike, the left side, and underneath the seat (audio on that one kinda sucks) Not dependent on being in drive or not. I rechecked my drive chain slack, drive sprocket (thought maybe a loose washer on the nut for it?) and the rear sprocket and everything was tight and not moving. There is a picture in there of my new rear sprocket and chain(installed 3 days ago). I used a digital caliber to measure the thickness of the master link down to the thousandth of a millimeter to the other links when I pressed it and made sure to have my play between 1.77 in to 2.17 in. It was in neutral with the video but it seems louder when engine breaking. Yamaha noise 2 video you can hear it best when I put it up to where the gear selector goes into the transmission (I think that’s the right term for it?) Here is the link to the Dropbox videos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z1dv9ahgimttcff/AAAu_zaH5Ka9nLNBRtsfdeVBa?dl=0
 
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Motogiro

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That really does sound like a chain noise. Even though the CCT has been replaced, I wonder if the CC guides are worn. There's another chain internally that can make noise when stretched/worn. The oil pump chain. We had a member who had the oil pump chain get so worn it cut through the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)

Another thought.The sprag clutch. Especially if the sound seems to emanate from that side of the engine. Stator and stator flywheel?
 

FinalImpact

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Cliff, talking Vegas? That was the cam chain after 100,000 miles or something like that. The oil pump is to far away from the CPS.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Plus 1 ^^, the cam chain is adjacent to the PU sensor..

Sounds like the CCT is in correctly(no problem revving).

The oil chain, much deeper doesn't have a tensioner and is pretty loose new...

As Cliff mentioned, the cam chain could be worn and / or the guides.

Your getting close to checking the valve clearances (Yamaha calls for 26,600 miles). FI's valves were loose (as I re-call) WAY earlier than that but that's more a ticking noise...

It's somewhat involved but I'd be checking into those AND specifically checking the guides AND CAM CHAIN for wear.

I just did mine at 26,600, two slightly tight exhaust valves, the cam chain, going by cam marks and cranks sprocket mark DID show slight chain stretch (marks not quite dead nuts on, maybe .040" stretch-marks off by that much actually).

I would also try taking a screw driver (or such), place it up against the cylinder/ head block, with the engine running and pace it up against your ear.

It helps to pin point the noise and as earlier posted, a loose chain/worn guide/ missing guide, will make racket inside the engine very difficult to pin point.

One member (been awhile), as I re-call, the very TOP guide, on the valve cover(inside), came off..


If your shooting more video's, concentrate on the upper end of the engine, especially the starboard side.

The lower, rear of the engine is the transmission, generally just spinning parts-(not much to knock), the engine however has more parts, as it rotates, spinning, CHANGING DIRECTIONS, etc-Much more likely to emanate from there..
 
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Domonics

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Plus 1 ^^, the cam chain is adjacent to the PU sensor..

Sounds like the CCT is in correctly(no problem revving).

The oil chain, much deeper doesn't have a tensioner and is pretty loose new...

As Cliff mentioned, the cam chain could be worn and / or the guides.

Your getting close to checking the valve clearances (Yamaha calls for 26,600 miles). FI's valves were loose (as I re-call) WAY earlier than that but that's more a ticking noise...

It's somewhat involved but I'd be checking into those AND specifically checking the guides AND CAM CHAIN for wear.

I just did mine at 26,600, two slightly tight exhaust valves, the cam chain, going by cam marks and cranks sprocket mark DID show slight chain stretch (marks not quite dead nuts on, maybe .040" stretch-marks off by that much actually).

I would also try taking a screw driver (or such), place it up against the cylinder/ head block, with the engine running and pace it up against your ear.

It helps to pin point the noise and as earlier posted, a loose chain/worn guide/ missing guide, will make racket inside the engine very difficult to pin point.

One member (been awhile), as I re-call, the very TOP guide, on the valve cover(inside), came off..


If your shooting more video's, concentrate on the upper end of the engine, especially the starboard side.

The lower, rear of the engine is the transmission, generally just spinning parts-(not much to knock), the engine however has more parts, as it rotates, spinning, CHANGING DIRECTIONS, etc-Much more likely to emanate from there..

Thank you guys for your input. A few things

Whats a Sprag Clutch?

I have tried going around the engine with a pencil and trying to find where the noise is coming from with no luck. The sound seems to be the loudest from the left side and also is more apparent when i lift the gas tank up. The sound seem's to be loudest by where the gear shiftier goes into the engine. or it seems to be coming from the dip or crevasse between where the Transmission is and where the connecting rods for the pistons are.

When i changed the cam chain tensioner i pulled the whole cam chain cover off to put it at top dead and when i did this i inspected the chain, guides, and tensioner and nothing seemed to be loose or worn out of the ordinary. The only thing i did while in there that i think may have caused an issue could be i put a wrench between the guide and motor housing on the inside to keep tension on the cam chain for when i removed the tensioner. You dont think that would have done anything do you? I could have stretched the chain, but why is it only making that winding noise/knocking noise when warm? Plus the noise dose not seem to be resonating from the cam chain cover when i put a pencil up to my ear and put it on the cover.

The thing I am mainly worried about and that is on my mind is, should i keep it in hopes its something minimal or sell it with thoughts it could be a crank bearing? I do not have the space to tear the motor out (live in an apartment).
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Thank you guys for your input. A few things

Whats a Sprag Clutch? SEE BELOW

I have tried going around the engine with a pencil and trying to find where the noise is coming from with no luck. The sound seems to be the loudest from the left side and also is more apparent when i lift the gas tank up. The sound seem's to be loudest by where the gear shiftier goes into the engine. THE SPRAGUE CLUTCH IS IN THAT AREA or it seems to be coming from the dip or crevasse between where the Transmission is and where the connecting rods for the pistons are.

When i changed the cam chain tensioner i pulled the whole cam chain cover off to put it at top dead and when i did this i inspected the chain, guides, and tensioner and nothing seemed to be loose or worn out of the ordinary. GOOD The only thing i did while in there that i think may have caused an issue could be i put a wrench between the guide and motor housing on the inside to keep tension on the cam chain for when i removed the tensioner. You dont think that would have done anything do you? NAW, THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN FINE. I could have stretched the chain, but why is it only making that winding noise/knocking noise when warm? Plus the noise dose not seem to be resonating from the cam chain cover when i put a pencil up to my ear and put it on the cover.

The thing I am mainly worried about and that is on my mind is, should i keep it in hopes its something minimal or sell it with thoughts it could be a crank bearing? AGAIN, I'VE NEVER HEARD ABOUT A CRANK BEARING FAILING, NOR A ROD BEARING. AN OCCASIONAL ROD THRU THE CASE BUT THAT'S RARE AND DFROM ABUSE.. I do not have the space to tear the motor out (live in an apartment).

Here's the Sprague clutch: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fzs6t/starter

The starter stays engaged with that gear and the gear doesn't rotate unless the starter is activated.

Recently, a member had a noise and the mechanic found the STATOR LOOSE, part #2: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fzs6t/generator

I seriously doubt it's anything serious and would keep looking...

Do you have a Yamaha SHOP manual?


Pic expires in 7 days:
 
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Motogiro

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Cliff, talking Vegas? That was the cam chain after 100,000 miles or something like that. The oil pump is to far away from the CPS.

That's correct! It was Kenny's cam chain that cut through the CPS and gave Error #12 Lol!
 
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