FZ6 Steering head bearing went bad

[bmccrary]

Everyone has said to replace the bearings, and get All Balls Bearings, but what type of grease should be used?

Just a good water proof grease. I am not sure of what kind mine is, but was long as it is waterproof you should be good.


The wire brush I used wasnt that aggressive. All it did was take the rust off the balls. No significant material was removed. And the bearings will be replace soon.

-bryan

 

[FZ6-ZN]

Well the good news is, you didn’t buy a dud. A lot of ppl have experienced steering head bearing failure; bad design.

You should have replaced the steering head bearings with taper rollers

FZ6-ZN

 

[Oscar54]

Well Hell!

I just did my front wheel for a new tire and the brake calipers too.

I could have done this at the same time, but I'm glad to have read this thread. This is the great thing about the forum, we all help keep each other out of trouble.

So I will be ordering my All-Balls Part # 22-1004 for $31.95 plus shipping.

 

[Doorag]

My head is loose but I don't know if they are rusted or not. I ride in the rain 30% of the time so I don't hold out much hope. I'll try to get by this time because I don't have loads of money, but will try to get to it later in the year.

 

[mabbott]

Everyone has said to replace the bearings, and get All Balls Bearings, but what type of grease should be used?

I used Red Line Full synthetic high pressure grease. It is kinda pricy but it rocks!

 

[FZyLarry]

The wire brush I used wasnt that aggressive. All it did was take the rust off the balls. No significant material was removed. And the bearings will be replace soon.

-bryan

I was probably a little over the top about the effect of your polishing and all. If these were bearings that spun at 10 grand I'd be pretty leary of doing any "fixing". But since they rotate slowly and are mostly getting compression loads, I don't think any disaster is imminent.

You will be much happier when they are replaced though!

 

[bmccrary]

I was probably a little over the top about the effect of your polishing and all. If these were bearings that spun at 10 grand I'd be pretty leary of doing any \"fixing\". But since they rotate slowly and are mostly getting compression loads, I don't think any disaster is imminent.

You will be much happier when they are replaced though!

Oh yea. Completely agree. If the bearing spun that fast, the rust that formed while sitting ould have been a distaster once is started moving. Could you imagine if something like that happened to one of the bearings in a turbo?!?!

-bryan

 

[Denver_FZ6]

The caps on top of the fork tubes look like aluminum. Is there a trick to removing them so it doesn't look like someone attacked them with a rusty oversize crescent wrench?

 

[bmccrary]

The caps on top of the fork tubes look like aluminum. Is there a trick to removing them so it doesn't look like someone attacked them with a rusty oversize crescent wrench?

I used a nice boxed in adjustable wrench. Dad got that tool from his father I think. It has been used as an axle wrench since he took it from him, lol.

Tip: When removing caps, loosen upper fork tube mount, then loosen fork tube cap. Once completed, loosen lower mount and remove fork. Much easier and than trying to hold the fork tube or putting it in a vice.

-bryan

 

[alanrim]

Just out of interest I had a quick visual of the bottom of the head on my 4-month old FZ and it actually had grease coming out of it, so assume this means they now grease them well.... or that the grease is so runny it just washes out I suppose?!?

Not sure what to think of it, but I have 20-months manufacturers warranty left so nothing to worry about just yet

 

[FZyLarry]

I've read some posts where people have seen rusty water or goo dripping out so if yours is clean, I guess that's a good thing. The down side is if the seal lets grease out then water can get in.

 

[Kent Soignier]

Steering head bearings can go bad in 50 miles of normal riding if they are just a little loose. That slight movement from being loose gives them room to hammer dents in the races and flat spots on the roller elements. Causing a detent feel when they want to lock into the dented races.
If you keep them adjusted, (that's not to say 'tight') they can last for thousands of miles and years of service. all it takes is keeping water out, and proper adjustment.
I imagine yamaha motor corp considers that a lack of maintenance issue, that should have been caught by whatever mechanics have been doing the servicing on your bike.

 

[reiobard]

a few people have mentioned this shortfall and the bottom line is that they used a cheap bearing in there, many folks that have done the replacement on their own buy a heavier duty tapered bearing and have been very pleased.

 

[BigJoeG]

As a person who has some familiarity with bearings, I am curious who actually makes the bearings in the All-Balls Part # 22-1004 kit.

Can someone who has an uninstalled set tell me what markings, if any, are on the bearings and seals?

Thanks

View attachment 12572

 

[steveindenmark]

Is it a big job to check these bearings and do we have a "How to" on it?

Steve

 

[Shinn]

Is it a big job to check these bearings and do we have a "How to" on it?

Steve

I second this! Also how can you tell if something is wrong with them? (I'm uneducated on this sort of thing)

 

[bmccrary]

No its not that hard.

To make it easier on yourself you need to remove the inner fairings and handlebar controls so that the bars can be moved out of the way.

Also, the front wheel and forks need to be removed.

Loosen large chrome nut on top of the tripple trees. Lift upper tree off.

Take spaner wrench or hammer and punch, and loosen the two nuts to release the lower tree. Pull lower tree out from bottom, shaft will come with it.

Be sure to not the possition of seals and bearings. Helps to pull up the microfish on Yamaha's web site too.

While the forks are off, its a good idea to go ahead and service them.

Tip for that: Before you remove the forks, simply loosen the top tripple tree clamp bolt that pinches the fork. Then loosen the fork cap on the fork. Easier to tighten and loosen that nut with the lower tree holding the fork tube. No need to completely remove the cap, just knock it loose. Then remove the forks.

If you are really parinoid about dinging things, I would suggest removing the tank since you will be moving the tripple trees around and hitting things with hammers around there.

Set aside a complete day, this gives you plenty of time to service the forks and all and make sure the job is done right.

-bryan

 

[BigJoeG]

I am sure that the service manual has specific amounts of acceptable play and pre-load specs (torque specs) for putting the whole thing back together. However, the quick and easy way is to check for excessive radial play and resistance to rotation.

With the bike on its center stand (or similar arrangement) and the front wheel off the ground, straddle the bike and grasp the handlebar grips. Try to push and pull the handlebars forward and aft perpendicular to the axis of rotation. If you can sense any play, check your bearings soon.

Next, again with the front wheel off the ground, slowly rotate the handlebars left and right through the full range of travel. If it does not feel smooth over the entire range of motion, (rachety or rough) check your bearings soon.

If you cannot feel excessive play and the whole system turns smoothly, tear it down and check it at the recommended service interval.

Hope that helps.
View attachment 12587

 

[bd43]

So for those people who have ordered the All Balls and you should have got them by now, did the roller bearings come with new bearing innner (#12) and outer (#16) races? In other words, part # 22-1004 comes with everything to change out the stock bearings?

Can someone provide a picture of what all came with the above part number?

Thanks.

 

[Fred]

I installed the All Balls today. They come with new inner and outers. I have never seen tapered roller bearings that weren't sold as a complete set.

They also come with new seals for top and bottom. When you take the old setup apart, you can see exactly why the bottom bearing has problems. The stock bottom seal is some sort of rough foam that doesn't seal worth a damn. The new ones with the All Balls kit are proper seals.

I rigged a press for the races out of some 3/4" all thread, two nuts, some washers and the old races. I took the steering stem to a shop to have that bearing swapped out. I have a hydraulic press, but would have had to spend about $30 on various fittings to get the bearing off. The shop charged $20.

Oh yeah, and my 2007 that has only been in service for a year already had the beginnings of rust on the lower bearing.