fz6 starter problem :(

[g8anos]

Yesterday I started up my bike just fine...

rode for a few km's, 4 bars on the temparature meter, vent was on, I stopped for a couple of minutes.

Then the starter didn't want to turn. I pressed the button and all I got was a tsik-tsik noise from somewhere in front of the bike. Also everytime I pressed the starter button a orange-light flashed on, signifying a mechanical problem...

After a few minutes of experimenting, I lifted the bike on the double stand, shifted to neutral and then I pressed the button and it worked!

The same afternoon, I stopped on the side of the road, and it happened again. Just this electrical "tsik" noise and the orange mechanical light on. After a couple of tries it worked without lifting the bike on the double stand.

Since yesterday, I am driving with no problems so far ...

Any help?

 

[dkcz]

Hi there,

I did experience this showing a fault code 12 on my meter.

I change the carbon thingy in the starter assembly.

I hope this helps.

 

[Motogiro]

Yesterday I started up my bike just fine...

rode for a few km's, 4 bars on the temparature meter, vent was on, I stopped for a couple of minutes.

Then the starter didn't want to turn. I pressed the button and all I got was a tsik-tsik noise from somewhere in front of the bike. Also everytime I pressed the starter button a orange-light flashed on, signifying a mechanical problem...

After a few minutes of experimenting, I lifted the bike on the double stand, shifted to neutral and then I pressed the button and it worked!

The same afternoon, I stopped on the side of the road, and it happened again. Just this electrical "tsik" noise and the orange mechanical light on. After a couple of tries it worked without lifting the bike on the double stand.

Since yesterday, I am driving with no problems so far ...

Any help?

Have you checked the connectors on your battery. A loose connector will do that. The tick tick tick sound is when there is not enough current and the relay is is chattering. Check your connections. It sounds like the battery is dead but it comes back and starts so I would thing bad connection first.
It is possible to have an intermittent malfunction internally in the battery but I sort of doubt it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Have you checked the connectors on your battery. A loose connector will do that. The tick tick tick sound is when there is not enough current and the relay is is chattering. Check your connections. It sounds like the battery is dead but it comes back and starts so I would thing bad connection first.
It is possible to have an intermittent malfunction internally in the battery but I sort of doubt it.

+1 on the above..

BTW, what year bike and how old is the battery? Does the dash lights dim or go out when you push the starter button?

 

[g8anos]

the bike is 2005 model, but the battery is just under 2 years old...

I doubt that its the battery itself...

The dash lights dim slightly, nothing major...

A few minutes ago, it wouldn't start persistently, so I kick started it, and after a couple of km I tried again it worked.

 

[Motogiro]

the bike is 2005 model, but the battery is just under 2 years old...

I doubt that its the battery itself...

The dash lights dim slightly, nothing major...

A few minutes ago, it wouldn't start persistently, so I kick started it, and after a couple of km I tried again it worked.

You might have very little depth of charge on the battery. I'll assume you've checked the connections to the battery before re confirming you have a problem and trying to start it. If you've checked your connection You can now charge the battery completely and have it load test. Batteries can be bad right out of the box. Good Luck!

 

[g8anos]

I checked the connectors and they seemed all fine...

The battery's charge also seems to be ok, because whenever it decides to spin the motor, it spins with a real punch, like new. (It doesn't hesitate or "cough" which would indicate a low charged battery-right?)

Anyway, this morning after a quick ride, it died on me completely the 2nd time a wanted to start it, so I push-started it and went to my mechanic (by they way I was very surprised how easily it was to push-start the fz6, with a second gear and little descent downhill!)

As dkcz said above, the mechanic told me that after 100.000 km it's probably normal that the carbons inside the starter assembly wore out (don't ask me what these carbon things are, I wasn't even aware of their existence, until dkcz mentioned them)

-New carbon insert in the starter assembly: 55e
-Labor:50e
-Going to work 1.30 hours late, by any means I found, all sweaty and freaked-out (priceless). Now I have to inform them, that I also need to leave early to pick-up my bike from the shop...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just replaced my battery in my 2007, about 3 years old. I noticed the dash lights going out occassionally when cranking (its telling you its failing). The original battery died in the bike the second day after it was purchased brand new (from my friend). I seriously doubt the starter is bad.

With a volt meter connected to the old battery the voltage, WHEN CRANKING, dropped to 8 volts and the bike STILL cranked over quickly. It doesn't take much to crank that engine, 8 volts, thus, there's not a lot of wear and tear on the starter. Mine starts with less than a second of pushing the starter button.

With the new Yuasa battery in, the dash light does not dim anymore and voltage stays high.

I agree with Cliff, get the battery load tested first, (its usually free), that's most likely your problem. It can also have a "dead short" in it, connects occassionally, not unusual..

Check the basic's first, IE, the battery, your dash lights shouldn't dim either (once again pointing towards a failing battery)

As stated above, a volt meter connected to the battery while cranking is a fast and cheap way to get an idea about your battery.

Also, if you don't do enough higher RPM running (mostly city), the charging system is NOT REPLENISHING the battery to full charge and will fail earlier than normal. Also, if it wasn't trickle charged when NEW, BEFORE A LOAD IS PUT ON IT, will decrease its life. My new battery, on a BMW smart charger, took about 10 hours to go to full green (full charge) when brand new. It does make a difference...

 

[g8anos]

Thank you all for your support and your valuable advice.

I picked up my bike yesterday from the shop.

The mechanic changed these strange carbon slider thingies inside the starter assembly and the problem was solved.

Now, it cranks like new .. The part and the labor did cost me 100 euros, though

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thank you all for your support and your valuable advice.

I picked up my bike yesterday from the shop.

The mechanic changed these strange carbon slider thingies inside the starter assembly and the problem was solved.

Now, it cranks like new .. The part and the labor did cost me 100 euros, though

Excellent!

Their called "brushes" BTW.

 

[VasMan]

Hello! I'm sure this is really old to you now but I was reading a very old post of you http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/38490-fz6-starter-problem.html

Because it seems that we have exactly the same problem. I tried many things, I took it to a mechanic who gave me very random and wrong diagnosis. I changed the starter relay myself just yesterday but the problem still persists. Was yours really solved by changing these carbons things? I guess it would have the same result If I was to change the whole starter motor?

By the way are you greek? Cause I am too

 

[Motogiro]

Hello! I'm sure this is really old to you now but I was reading a very old post of you http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/38490-fz6-starter-problem.html

Because it seems that we have exactly the same problem. I tried many things, I took it to a mechanic who gave me very random and wrong diagnosis. I changed the starter relay myself just yesterday but the problem still persists. Was yours really solved by changing these carbons things? I guess it would have the same result If I was to change the whole starter motor?

By the way are you greek? Cause I am too

Many times mechanics mis-diagnose an electrical problem. My neighbor and I just went through this when his car just died on him. I had to guide 2 different mechanics in their troubleshooting because they did not understand the process of sensors and the ECU. They were just going to replace parts at my neighbors expense until the car ran. Adding to it they had the cam belt off and were on the way to a catastrophic engine failure if not for intervention. I guess they just call themselves mechanics.

In your case there is guessing going on and no testing to trouble shoot and get closer to the issue. You could run a jumper(10-12 gauge wire) from the battery positive lead to the starter. This must be done carefully because the safety protocols will be violated. Put the bike on it center stand and make sure it is in neutral.Use a heavy gauge wire similar to what the starter uses and momentarily connect the the wire between the starter and the positive lead on the battery. If the starter does not turn, you may have worn brushes.

 

[FinalImpact]

Hello! I'm sure this is really old to you now but I was reading a very old post of you http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/38490-fz6-starter-problem.html

Because it seems that we have exactly the same problem. I tried many things, I took it to a mechanic who gave me very random and wrong diagnosis. I changed the starter relay myself just yesterday but the problem still persists. Was yours really solved by changing these carbons things? I guess it would have the same result If I was to change the whole starter motor?

By the way are you greek? Cause I am too

Hi and welcome. As a first time poster here on the forum your first post having a link in it landed it in the moderator bucket. Try to get a few more posts in without links or pictures and your content should not require moderation.

Did Cliff's input answer your question?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?