Fz6 shut off mid ride

[BitesWhenBitten]

A seriously over due report:

Yamaha technician called me today. The bike worked fine for him at first, asked him to look under the tank and check it over. He called me back and literally said to me if it were his bike he would get rid of it. Apparently the fuel pump is a junkyard variation that was put on with jb weld. There was something put in the tank for removing rust (or the like) which leaked out the bottom and got into the connectors for the ECU and all of that fun stuff and basically welded it together so he can't take it apart. The battery that's in it is wrong- he didn't go in depth on this note of what the issue is. It's missing a harness for wiring, so on and so forth.

It would be too costly to have them replace everything that they can tell is wrong at a glance and probably more to narrow down what is causing the intermittent electrical issues. So I will be selling it to a salvage yard and getting something else.

I appreciate everyone's help in trying to figure this out and I am very sad to see it go. I wish I knew more about bikes so I could've spotted this earlier.

Side note, the oil level did show a little high but wasn't crazy.

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[Gary in NJ]

Seems like an over reaction. A used tank and fuel pump assembly could be sourced to replace what you have. If the bike is in decent shape...and you like it...it seems that this is easily fixed.

 

[Motogiro]

A seriously over due report:

Yamaha technician called me today. The bike worked fine for him at first, asked him to look under the tank and check it over. He called me back and literally said to me if it were his bike he would get rid of it. Apparently the fuel pump is a junkyard variation that was put on with jb weld. There was something put in the tank for removing rust (or the like) which leaked out the bottom and got into the connectors for the ECU and all of that fun stuff and basically welded it together so he can't take it apart. The battery that's in it is wrong- he didn't go in depth on this note of what the issue is. It's missing a harness for wiring, so on and so forth.

It would be too costly to have them replace everything that they can tell is wrong at a glance and probably more to narrow down what is causing the intermittent electrical issues. So I will be selling it to a salvage yard and getting something else.

I appreciate everyone's help in trying to figure this out and I am very sad to see it go. I wish I knew more about bikes so I could've spotted this earlier.

Side note, the oil level did show a little high but wasn't crazy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Wow! That's worse than i thought it was but... Get another FZ6 they are awesome bikes if you get one that's been half taken care of.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Where r u located?

Someone just gave away a fuel tank on the forum.

That tank sealer can be picked / scraped off the connectors.

The correct battery can be installed.

The dealer didn't want to mess with (and would be expensive-time wise) with someone's "jerry rigging".

There's nothing stopping you from picking at what leaked out...

Heck if you were close, it'd be a great project bike, especially for cheap...

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

If they can't get into the wiring to fix it, which they can't, then I can't trust it.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

If they can't get into the wiring to fix it, which they can't, then I can't trust it.

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You can get to ANYTHING if you have the effort. Again, $100 / hour for them, no it doesn't make sense.

Almost anything can be fixed, it's not like you have a blown engine.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

That's true. If it were affordable, I would love to fix it. I don't have the knowledge to fix it. I'm in Louisville ky.

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[OG MayMay]

Once you get your oil level correct on the dip stick, (mid hash, high hash, etc), turn it off and let the engine get cold.

Park the bike in your normal spot, even on the side stand (as I do) and re-check. You'll find the level lower but still on the stick.

Make a mental note of where it is NOW on the stick.

Now, W/O all the start/ run two minutes (which DOESN'T warm the oil to temp) etc, check to see the oil level COLD, that it's the same as last time.

Much, much easier and ACCURATE.

This method may work for you, however I don't see how this would provide a more realistic operating condition than warming up the bike for several minutes. I agree that running the bike for several minutes will not warm the bike up to operating temperature completely, but it does throw oil around the crankcase and allows for more oil distribution throughout the lubrication system, mimicking operating condition. Riding it around the block for 10-15 minutes would be a better option to warm the oil if time allows. However, with professional service, time is money, and when I have a bike on my lift, I am going to follow the manufacturers instruction and perform the service according to the service literature and specification.

Personally I have ran countless bikes on a lift for 5 minutes or less and have felt warm oil come out the drain hole. I didn't hit it with a laser thermometer so I can't tell you the exact temp compared to operating temp, but I wouldn't want to touch it and can guarantee that the oil was warmer than checking with the engine cold? The measuring apparatus, I.e. the dipstick is calibrated for checking the bike after warming it up for several minutes on a flat and level surface like the center stand or centered on a lift, so I don't see how your method is more "accurate" to the actual level, whatever that is.

The only bikes that I know of that requires you to use the jiffy stand to check oil level are Harley's.

I see how your method could offer a slightly more precise measurement for resting or cold oil level, but in terms of accuracy to the manufactures engineering and procedure, I don't agree.

At the end of the day, the engineers wrote the service manual and Yamaha spent the time/money to include specific instructions on oil change procedure for a reason.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Initially, the oil is filled and checked PER THE MANUAL.

After that, check cold (on the side stand, CC, etc) COLD. The oil VOLUMNE has NOT changed . It's fully drained into the crankcase. The dip stick will show slightly lower (of course on the side stand), usually about half ways.

And it is much more accurate as the "wait time" with a warm engine, (oil staying up in the head, not drain fully or still full) DEPENDING on if you wait one minute or five minutes can make a difference.


Harleys (air cooled) are dry sump engines with a separate oil tank, (that's like comparing apples to oranges)..

 

[OG MayMay]

1. The reference to Harley Davidson was purely for purposes of illustrating that they are the only manufacturer that requires to check oil on the side stand. Nothing in relation to the lubrication system or service procedure? Im not comparing the bikes/systems, just referencing a procedure. And the fact that most older HarleyÂ’s lack water cooling (you can water cool a twin cam) does not pertain to lubrication, even if I was using the comparison.

2. If the oil level is already correct according to manufacturers procedure, why are you wasting time to let the bike cool and measuring once more? How is a cold oil level closer to operation condition!? I donÂ’t care what the oil level is when the bike is cold, bikes donÂ’t operate cold! This does nothing but waste efficiency time and shop supplies (rags).

3. Yes, in a wet sump lubrication system some oil will flow back into the crankcase from the heads due to gravity (9.8 m/s*s), but there will still be a good amount of oil trapped around the buckets and in all the knooks and crannies under the camshafts. Especially without any pressure from the gerotor gear. The manual states to wait “a few minutes” to allow oil to settle after turning it off to check the oil, I would take that as 3-4 minutes.

This is coming from a Yamaha, BMW, and Harley Davidson certified tech. I currently go to MMI.