FZ6 problems

[PcH]

Just purchased my 2005 FZ6 a week ago and I've been having some problems.

1. Shifting 1st to 2nd. It'll sometimes get stuck in neutral. I've read all the threads and I have yet to do an oil change or any basic maintenance yet. Hoping that will help.

2. Engine cuts out for a split second at a time as if I'm fully letting off the throttle. This will happen when I'm cruising or even down shifting to a red light. Perhaps related to the transmission? Am I getting fuel cuts? I've only fueled up once and it was 87 (regular) octane at Chevron. Not sure if it had any of that ethanol bull**** in it.

Aside from Mobil 1 10w30 full syn oil change, I plan on bleeding the brakes/replacing the brake fluid with ATE Super Blue DOT4. Any other suggestions? What kind of coolant should I flush?

Thanks for your help. :rockon:

 

[FB400]

10w30 mobil 1 is basic car oil. your clutch doesn't like car oil and it is not intended for use in wet clutch applications.

This is the stuff you want to use, albeit it is expensive at around $10 per quart.
I am running this now and seems to perform quite well.
ttp://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Racing_4T.asp

at my next oil change I am going to try Rotella T synthetic. Alot of motorcycle owners here and at other sites swear by it.

with regard to coolant, give this thread a read.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/20883-how-change-coolant.html

Not sure about the fuel system (thankfully never had an issue) you might try a fuel injector cleaner or seafoam

 

[jtarkany]

Shifting from 1st to 2nd is a little clunky, the FZ6 is fairly well known for this. With regard to cutting out you should adjust the idle and see if this solves the problem.

Download a copy of the owners, assembly and service manuals from Welcome to Boneman's FZ6 Site and perform all necessary services.

Good luck and enjoy :thumbup:

 

[Norbert]

i would occasionally have a stuck shifter.
i switched to Mobil1 racing 4T and never had any problems :thumbup:

coincidence? maybe.

use a better oil and preload your shifter before shifting.

i dont know anything about the super blue brake fluid. i use motul 5.1 and i like it.

for coolant, i just used prestone 50/50 pre mix. not sure if it's the best. it's good enough and convenient to use.

 

[Shamus McFeeley]

Whatever oil you decide to use, just make sure that it is not marked "energy conserving" on the API certification label. These oils have molybdenum in them which is what destroys wet clutches. Here is a good primer on oil that has been posted before:

Oil Info Link

Oil comes in many formulations, it's ultimately up to you to make the choice. Much of what we hear about oil is full of half-truths and gimmicks.

As for your fuel issue, that sounds like a delivery problem. Either one (or several) of your injectors are clogged, the power to one (or all) of them is being interrupted, or your TPS is malfunctioning. If it happens intermittently, it will be harder to troubleshoot, but not impossible. For the record, most fuels have ethanol in them these days, I believe it varies by state, but most contain 10% ethanol. I don't know about Chevron specifically, the only real way to be sure is to look for a sticker around the fuel pumps that will state the ethanol content.

As for coolant, there will be many choices, like oil. Automotive coolants will work, like the Prestone or Peak 50/50 they sell everywhere. Avoid coolants that are formulated for special applications, like dex-cool (there was a thread on this recently). If you are savvy enough, you can mix some water wetter in there as well. Here is a good article about coolants, automotive based, but the principals are the same:

Coolant Article

 

[troyfrog]

did you ever figure out what was the problem? my fz6 is doing the same thing. i have had it cut out on me several times over the last 500 miles now. i've changed new oil (full synthetic), new NGK spark plugs, checked chain and sprocket (great condition and within recommended slack specs, clean and lubed), am currently cleaning and reoiling air filter. basically, i'll get a lurch backward (the opposite feeling of when you're in too high of a gear for your speed/not enough throttle and about to stall your engine), ride okay for a couple miles and then the engine will simply cut out. i pull over, turn everything off and it restarts fine. i've even had it restart fine at speed on the freeway as long as i downshifted all the way, flipped the cutoff switch, and then readjusted engine speed, throttle, and gear to match my cruising speed. it's done it during downshifting, when holding at speed for a while (70 mph for 20+miles), accelerating (like coming out of an onramp), when cold, when warm, i can't really figure out a rhyme or reason to it. i've already checked with the shop and the TPS has already been replaced on it. i'm not getting any check engine lights or anything. the last time i rode it, it cut out about 10 times over 50 miles after riding fine for about 150 miles. ( i rode from san diego to san luis obispo, and it cut out on me once in LA, and then rode fine til I got just past Goleta). i have tried calling a shop about the problem, but since i can't guarantee that the problem is gonna happen when i take it to them, they said to just ride it until it completely died. that's a little disconcerting since i wanna do a track day at the end of this month.
any advice or more things to check would be great.
thanks much

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There was a re-call for the TPS (throttle position sensor) for 04 and 05 bikes. I don't believe all 05's are included.

Call your Yamaha dealer or Yamaha direct with your vin #, they'll tell you if yours has been changed out. Its a free fix, takes maybe 45 minutes.

Check in the tech section, at the top, for more information... Sounds like it could be your problems...


BTW, my 04 FJR had the TPS re-call done...

 

[galen]

Had similar problem,adjusted ideal to 1260-1320, was set at 900.No more problems

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

did you ever figure out what was the problem? my fz6 is doing the same thing. i have had it cut out on me several times over the last 500 miles now. i've changed new oil (full synthetic), new NGK spark plugs, checked chain and sprocket (great condition and within recommended slack specs, clean and lubed), am currently cleaning and reoiling air filter. basically, i'll get a lurch backward (the opposite feeling of when you're in too high of a gear for your speed/not enough throttle and about to stall your engine), ride okay for a couple miles and then the engine will simply cut out. i pull over, turn everything off and it restarts fine. i've even had it restart fine at speed on the freeway as long as i downshifted all the way, flipped the cutoff switch, and then readjusted engine speed, throttle, and gear to match my cruising speed. it's done it during downshifting, when holding at speed for a while (70 mph for 20+miles), accelerating (like coming out of an onramp), when cold, when warm, i can't really figure out a rhyme or reason to it. i've already checked with the shop and the TPS has already been replaced on it. i'm not getting any check engine lights or anything. the last time i rode it, it cut out about 10 times over 50 miles after riding fine for about 150 miles. ( i rode from san diego to san luis obispo, and it cut out on me once in LA, and then rode fine til I got just past Goleta). i have tried calling a shop about the problem, but since i can't guarantee that the problem is gonna happen when i take it to them, they said to just ride it until it completely died. that's a little disconcerting since i wanna do a track day at the end of this month.
any advice or more things to check would be great.
thanks much

I found in another one of his posts, (in the tech section) that his TPS was original and he had it replaced by Yamaha.... Hopefully, they replaced yours with a good, updated TPS. You can check yours, procedure is in the upper "tech section".

I suspect you may want to clean your side stand safety switch (easy to do on the bike-unbolt from the frame, 2 small screws from the cover plate, contacts are right there with 1 spring which WON'T shoot out and away from you.) and also spray some WD40 into the clutch lever safety switch as it can accumulate crud and disable the bike... Work the lever/switch back and forth as you spray..

**If the bike thinks the kick stand is down and clutch out, in gear, it will TURN OFF THE IGNITION, its part part of the safety systems..

 

[galen]

i did the TPS diagnostic,at full throttle it was at 101 is that a problem?

 

[galen]

Sorry wrong thread already found the answer:thumbup:

 

[troyfrog]

I found in another one of his posts, (in the tech section) that his TPS was original and he had it replaced by Yamaha.... Hopefully, they replaced yours with a good, updated TPS. You can check yours, procedure is in the upper "tech section".

I suspect you may want to clean your side stand safety switch (easy to do on the bike-unbolt from the frame, 2 small screws from the cover plate, contacts are right there with 1 spring which WON'T shoot out and away from you.) and also spray some WD40 into the clutch lever safety switch as it can accumulate crud and disable the bike... Work the lever/switch back and forth as you spray..

**If the bike thinks the kick stand is down and clutch out, in gear, it will TURN OFF THE IGNITION, its part part of the safety systems..

thanks for the advice. i did check with the shop that the po used - they replaced TPS several thousand miles ago. (can it go bad again?) i've also sprayed all the electical connections around the side stand with contact cleaner and also checked and cleaned kill switch.
where exactly is the clutch lever safety switch? i'm assuming near the clutch lever somewhere?
i tried riding the bike last weekend after cleaning and reoiling the air filter, and it died on me 3 times in 5 miles.
thanks much

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks for the advice. i did check with the shop that the po used - they replaced TPS several thousand miles ago. (can it go bad again?) i've also sprayed all the electical connections around the side stand with contact cleaner and also checked and cleaned kill switch.
where exactly is the clutch lever safety switch? i'm assuming near the clutch lever somewhere?
i tried riding the bike last weekend after cleaning and reoiling the air filter, and it died on me 3 times in 5 miles.
thanks much

The clutch safety switch is located underneath the clutch lever purch (what the lever is attached to), its held on with one screw.

There are 2 wires that plug into it (they face the rider, at least on my 07).

Make sure the plastic shaft that comes out of the switch, (that contacts the lever is there) and makes contact with the lever (and that the tab on the lever is still there). Check/clean the wire contacts/wires.

Spray into the hole where the plastic shaft goes in and out (spray a good amount) while working the lever in and out.

I'd try to catch what comes out on a paper towel just to see whats gunked up in there.

* Did you take apart and clean the side stand safety switch? Not just the outside wire contacts but the actual contacts inside the switch? Its not hard at all to pull apart and clean. Might take 20 minutes, its the most likely part to fail...

BTW, its not likely, but yes the TPS, like any part can go bad again. I'm leaning hard towards the kick stand switch being your problem.

 

[chrisdot1]

my engine just dies everytime i go into gear, sidestand switch ok clutch switch ok loom all checked out ok, had the tps recall 4 wks ago, now i have to pay for diagnostics test when i think its faulty ecu/cdi unit, can these be hotswapped or does new /sec hand cdi/ecu need reprogrammed with my engine number and or immobiliser?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

my engine just dies everytime i go into gear, sidestand switch ok clutch switch ok loom all checked out ok, had the tps recall 4 wks ago, now i have to pay for diagnostics test when i think its faulty ecu/cdi unit, can these be hotswapped or does new /sec hand cdi/ecu need reprogrammed with my engine number and or immobiliser?

Unless the immobilizer lets the engine start (when working properly) re-read post #13, you have a dirty/bad safety switch.

How did you check the side stand switch / clutch safety switch??

Did you take the side stand switch apart and clean it?

Did you spray the clutch contact switch under the clutch lever purch with WD 40?

One of these are most likley your problems, not the ECU...

 

[chrisdot1]

sidestand switch was traced back to loom disconnected and checked after wd40 the hell out of it same as clutch switch, then bike elec checked switches and loom and all ok. would a sticky tps cut engine? cause its only had recall done 4 wks ago and had no issues before that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

sidestand switch was traced back to loom disconnected and checked after wd40 the hell out of it same as clutch switch, then bike elec checked switches and loom and all ok. would a sticky tps cut engine? cause its only had recall done 4 wks ago and had no issues before that.

The TPS could be bad but its usually an intermediate problem. Your engine runs fine until you try to get it rolling in gear. Sounds like an ignition saftey switch failure to me.

I strongly suggest taking the kick stand switch OFF THE BIKE, and pull the cover(2 screws) and clean inside. Its very simple, might take 20 minutes... Re-assemble with di-lectric grease. Rule that out.

If you prefer not to, then bring it to the shop and have them check the TPS again.

 

[chrisdot1]

The TPS could be bad but its usually an intermediate problem. Your engine runs fine until you try to get it rolling in gear. Sounds like an ignition saftey switch failure to me.

I strongly suggest taking the kick stand switch OFF THE BIKE, and pull the cover(2 screws) and clean inside. Its very simple, might take 20 minutes... Re-assemble with di-lectric grease. Rule that out.

If you prefer not to, then bring it to the shop and have them check the TPS again.

the sidestand switch is fine mate checked with multimeter and disconnected at loom and checked continuity of cable all ok. same with clutch switch

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[chrisdot1]

yeah bike has been with mechanic now for 2 weeks and it was the tps givin in and that stressed the engine cut off relay, so now it goes into gear ok but as soon as u rev it it dies so its the new tps that was fitted, lasted a week. and has cost me 200 quid gettin to the source.
feel like sellin it and never buyin yamaha again.