FZ6 Electrical Power

[HavBlue]

I didn't make the battery nor do I endorse it... Tailgate was asking about what our battery's CCR was... I was just trying to help him out with the answer... I think the point was .... an idea of what the FZ6 battery was rated at....

Better go back and "read." Please do so without installing things that are not "there." If you do, you'll find not a single word stating you endorse the battery, make the battery, like the battery or even know what a battery is. Rather, the post "questioned" the 160CCA rating of the advertisement.

 

[abacall]

Glad I found this thread. I recently had some battery problems and think I may have found an answer.
I just replaced my battery and went for a long ride. On the way home, I got stuck in stop-and-go traffic and it was over 90*. When I got home, dead battery again...
Do you think keeping the bike idle/moving less then 5 mph would have drained my battery? I was stuck for a good hour, the fans cycled lots of times.
Oh, the bike has the BD light mod.

 

[stevesnj]

I dont think the wattage of everything is an issue but the Amps it draws from the battery...high amp devices will usually decrease a batteries life. The fan fuel pump, ECU (if amp drawing), and starter cause more battery issues than a headlight or other light would.

 

[Clovis]

Hmm, so should I go with the 65W jacket instead?

I ordered the 90W however I got an email from them today that it's on backorder. They have 1 left but its a 65W.

Current electrical draw:

Dual HID - wired to run 1 light always and the 2nd light powers up with the high beam switch.

Heated gloves (Firstgear)

I have two 12v power adapters that I sometimes use to charge my cell phone and/or GPS.

Stock bulbs for the running lights/tail/turn signals.

07 FZ6

 

[Motogiro]

Hmm, so should I go with the 65W jacket instead?

I ordered the 90W however I got an email from them today that it's on backorder. They have 1 left but its a 65W.

Current electrical draw:

Dual HID - wired to run 1 light always and the 2nd light powers up with the high beam switch.

Heated gloves (Firstgear)

I have two 12v power adapters that I sometimes use to charge my cell phone and/or GPS.

Stock bulbs for the running lights/tail/turn signals.

07 FZ6

Your hid will use about 35 watts. Less than stock a light. The cell/GPS are low current devices so they don't use much especially once charged.

I think I read the gloves are 27 watts each. You might be okay. Does the jacket have a controller? Also if you get a voltmeter you'll be able to assess if you need to manage power by reducing consumption.

 

[Clovis]

I'm running a dual controller to control the gloves and jacket separately.

 

[Motogiro]

I'm running a dual controller to control the gloves and jacket separately.

I think you'll be good managing power with the controllers. Find a little digital voltmeter and use it as a monitor. That way you'll see if there are unusual voltage drops and be able to act accordingly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When stopping for a traffic light/traffic, slow movement, I just turn the heat troller off.

You likely don't need it (at least nearly as much) vs when at speed...

BTW, thanks for the info BD43!

 

[Clovis]

I went ahead and ordered the 90W jacket from a different vender (MSS). I got to use my gloves yesterday and it made a big difference despite being under 30 degrees at 9500 ft.

With changing to dual HIDs that gives me an extra excess of 40watts and during the day I run with 1 head light (so another 35).

The jacket is 110watts max and the gloves are 30 so there should be room to spare even running both lights, the jacket and gloves at maximum.

Thanks for the helpful advice!

There have been some questions concerning the electrical power system on the FZ6 as to how much it can deliver. What is it really? This poses an interesting question. I decided to crunch some numbers, albeit there is probably some inaccuracies, but if there is a substantial difference between the load and what the AC magneto can deliver, it should not be a concern. Based on the service manual power consumption numbers, I took the scenario of sitting at a light waiting to make a turn below 5000rpm (AC magneto not generating). For the some odd 197W load (16A) the battery, if fully charged can sustain it for approximately 36 minutes. When above 5000rpm, there should be no problem with the stock load configuration that I can see. :thumbup:


AC Magneto Output..........310. W
Total Power Avail..............310. W

Low Beam left Bulb............55. W
Low Beam Right Bulb.........55. W
Tail Light Bulb.....................5. W
Brake Light Bulb................21. W
Front Position Lights..........10. W
License Plate Light..............5. W
Turn Signal Front..............21. W
Turn Signal Rear...............21. W
Headlight Relay.................1.7 W
Fuel Injection Relay...........0.9 W
Total Power Req'd..........194.7 W
Total Power Remaining...115.3 W

Anyone have any comments?

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW I did some testing on US FZ6....

Key on, fuel pump off current draw was 1.7Amps.
Thats the ECU and running lights. So figure roughly 22watts. Also with a fully charged battery ~13.00 volts, incandescent bulbs will draw more power than when ran at 12v.

Yes, it's a 12v battery and fully charged and/or at float voltage its state is typically 13.4v...

Real world testing using a fluke 187 meter to measure current through an H1 bulb.

4.5A @ 11.5V (51.75 Watts)
4.8A @ 13.5V (64.8 Watts)

JM2C but Blinkers and brakes are intermittent and I would exclude them from load calculations.

LEAKAGE CURRENT KILLING YOUR BATTERY??
Here is a some info I gathered while the bike was apart for other reasons. Its looking specifically at current draw while the bike is OFF and sitting. For this test the NEGATIVE battery lead was disconnected and the meters test leads were connected to the battery and the bikes ground lead forming a current loop. Essentially any energy drawn from the bikes battery had to pass through that meter via the two test leads. Now we can measure current draw.

FWIW: the FSM does not list a standard value for current draw when the key is off. The value here seems reasonable. Also - bike is designated for the states (US).

CURRENT DRAW; KEY OFF - Powering the Meter only to keep Time:
CURRENT = 0.001Amps Although it kept switching from 0.001 - 0.000A. Given the range of the meter - I'll call it 0.0005 Amps. I placed a current meter between the battery and the Negative lead.

10Ahr battery loosing 0.0005A equates to this:
10Ahr/0.0005A = 20,000 hrs <How long it could run from battery

20,000hrs/24hrs day = 833 days to kill that battery

In short, the battery will kill itself before my bike does. Batteries have their own internal resistance which is more than the load of the meter keeping time.

On to more exciting things!
What if we leave the key on and don't start the bike?? OUCH! This one hurts the battery FAST!!! Once the fuel pump does its thing and shuts off, the ECM and lighting are drawing 1.7A!!!!

10Ahr battery loosing 1.7A per hour - your done in a couple hours I bet. Don't leave the key on!
10Ahr / 1.7A = 5.8 hrs. But I doubt it will start the bike in 3 hours.

Technical info on current draw:
With the key off the only only thing connected to the battery is the RR. So, if your RR has a bad diode, it would be wise to unplug it and repeat this test. If the current read through the meter drops, your RR is the source of the current loss. If it has no change, than your ignition switch may be dirty and conducting electricity to other components.

And if you're wondering why I didn't use the lower current range of "micro amps" on the meter, well it goes like this; Free is a good price even if certain functions don't pass calibration and can't be trusted.

 

[JHM]

Just a couple points to add to the mix, using the 10Ah number for runtime estimations is a little optimistic.
You will rarely see a standard battery deliver it's nameplate value unless it is nearly new.
A more realistic expectation for a battery in good condition is 85% of rated. Or in our case 8.5 Ah.
The 85% comes from my experience with aircraft batteries of the same construction that we have and 85% is the pass/fail margin for returning to service.

Additionally my rad fan (2004 fz6) running in open air was consuming approximately 5 amps, pretty significant considering the loads being demanded of this little battery.

 

[liamstears]

My bike has been upgraded to an FH012AA regulator, how will this affect my output? Is it the regulator or the generator that gives the low output on the FZ6?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bike has been upgraded to an FH012AA regulator, how will this affect my output? Is it the regulator or the generator that gives the low output on the FZ6?

It's the smaller size of the STATOR. It can only develop so much current.

 

[Motogiro]

My bike has been upgraded to an FH012AA regulator, how will this affect my output? Is it the regulator or the generator that gives the low output on the FZ6?

What is the upgraded rectifier regulator you're using?

If tests have been done that show the stator is capable of producing more power but is limited by the stock OEM r/r then you may end up with better overall charging with a higher wattage r/r but as Scott says it is probably the stator that has the limitation on developing the additional power.