• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ6 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Flickering Headlight

IsaacH

Junior Member
Joined
May 19, 2015
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
North Dakota
Visit site
So I just finished installing my naked kit off of eBay on my fz6. I used the high beam bulb from the old headlights and took one of the wires out of the high beam plug in and put it in the low beam plug in allowing me to use the high and low beam switch. While I was riding around my neighborhood I noticed the headlight was flickering. I don't know what the problem is. Any suggestions are grateful.
 
:welcome:to the forum IsaacH!

The stock OEM FZ6 with fairing uses 1 bulb for the low bean and one bulb for the high beam. Although the high beam bulb has 2 filaments (H4 type) there must be a shut off for the low beam when the high beam is activated. This is because the lamp can not properly dissipate the heat of both filament at the same time. There is a chance that lamp has been damaged from over heating if you used the high beam for any length of time.

There is a modification/solution where you can get the low beam to shut off properly when the high beam is activated. Member bd43 may be able to help you with his kit that fixes this problem. Give him a PM.
[MENTION=458]bd43[/MENTION]
 
If your burning BOTH FILIMENTS at the same time (without the mod), your doubling the heat inside the bulb.

Is it flickering on JUST LOW BEAM?

Or with BOTH beams on?

Just a basic FYI, (if not already known,) Do NOT touch the glass on the bulb. The oil from your fingers is not good for the life of the bulb. If it was touched, cleaning with rubbing alcohol carefully is recommended to remove the oil..
 
It's flickering on low beam and high beam ( I have not been running high beam for more than a couple minutes at a time). I know not to touch the bulb with my fingers because of the oil. But thanks for makeing sure.
 
It might be a voltage regulator problem. Do the other lights on the bike flicker? Do you have a digital multi meter so you can measure voltage? It could be a bad lamp. :)

Start the engine and turn the kill switch to off leaving the key in the on position. The headlamp should stay on. Does it flicker? Start the engine Does the headlamp flicker? Give it some rpm does the flickering stop or change?
 
Last edited:
I got it to work last night. I used the low beam connector on the first go so I just switched it to the high one and changed the wires around and it works fine. Do I have to buy the kit to get the low beam filament to shut off or can I make my own.
 
I got it to work last night. I used the low beam connector on the first go so I just switched it to the high one and changed the wires around and it works fine. Do I have to buy the kit to get the low beam filament to shut off or can I make my own.

Good! It could be the ground on the other plug assembly that was the problem.

Do a search on the forum and you will find some information on this. You will have to find the connection in your harness. There are different ways to approach this but my suggestion is contact bd43 for the kit he makes.
[MENTION=458]bd43[/MENTION]
 
FWIW: the Flag and male connector into the the main harness can be bought or made. Look in the electrical section for Where to Buy Parts. Grab the proper shrink tubing while your there!

The greater issue is not having a proper crimp tool thus it defeats most DIY installs as the proper tools exceeds the cost of the kit. Please do not solder connections of this kind either, its a Crimp Only due to heat and current (load carrying) being present! Well unless you want your light off in the dark! :eek:
 
FWIW: the Flag and male connector into the the main harness can be bought or made. Look in the electrical section for Where to Buy Parts. Grab the proper shrink tubing while your there!

The greater issue is not having a proper crimp tool thus it defeats most DIY installs as the proper tools exceeds the cost of the kit. Please do not solder connections of this kind either, its a Crimp Only due to heat and current (load carrying) being present! Well unless you want your light off in the dark! :eek:

Speaking of crimping. We should do a "Crimpin 101" class for people that are doing their own wiring etc. It is a weak point on many electrical repairs and mods when done the wrong way. It is a very simple process with the right tool.

I use these...
31HW1NRVTYL.jpg
 
Speaking of crimping. We should do a "Crimpin 101" class for people that are doing their own wiring etc. It is a weak point on many electrical repairs and mods when done the wrong way. It is a very simple process with the right tool.

I use these...
31HW1NRVTYL.jpg

^^ TRUE ^^
Not exactly Bucket List material there bud! :D


The difference being the tool there is for terminations without strain relief on the connector. Like the box of assorted reds, blues, yellows for basic repair. Example Common Spade Connector - Google images

Most all of the OEM connections include a built in strain relief which takes a higher quality tool to crimp as the connector also grips the insulation when crimped. LOOK - ANOTHER NEW SITE FULL OF GOODIES Just for Jap bikes! Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

^^ Dang site even has Wiring Diagrams for some bikes! :rockon::rockon:

It also has; flags, butt splice, sleeves, moisture proof, spades, rings, you name it.... Oh - > Last but not least; Crimp Tools Too! Open Barrel Crimp tools
 
Back
Top