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Flashing oil light (10 times)

Cloggy

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Since this morning I have an intermittent flashing oil light. I imediately checked my oil level (OK) and consulted the users manual. Anyway when it happens it flashes 10 times and then stops until the next time it flashes 10 times again. Reading the manual it says I have a problem with the oil warning circuit (not oil pressure) so I figure it's not as bad as I first thought. Next week my bikes going in for a major service so I can have them look at it.

I was wondering has anyone else had this problem and if so what the cause was. Cheers :thumbup:
 
From what I've read on the forum, our bikes only have an oil level sensor--not an oil pressure sensor. Since you said you checked the level and it was fine I would think there has to be some problem in the circuit causing it to flash like that. No error codes being displayed on the dash?
 
From what I've read on the forum, our bikes only have an oil level sensor--not an oil pressure sensor. Since you said you checked the level and it was fine I would think there has to be some problem in the circuit causing it to flash like that. No error codes being displayed on the dash?

No error codes being shown, flashing 10 times (as opposed to being constantly on) is an indication of a fault in the test circuit according to the users manual.

BTW you can find the manual on the Yamaha website. The info is on page 4-2
Users manual
 
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Thanks for the info Scott :bow:, got to spread rep around before giving it to Scott again :thumbup:

Don't spread it yet, might be something else but I doubt it...

Please post what they find Martin..

(I've never had that switch out. It may be able to get cleaned with brake cleaner vs a new one. You may mention that and save $100+ )

And good luck..
 
It could be as simple as a bad connection. If you have a hand held meter you can verify its output. Find the end of the connector, unplug it. Insert one probe into conductor at the connector and the other to an engine ground (like a allen socket cap bolt) and it should read as follows:

Engine oil level gauge
Maximum level position resistance
114–126 Ω
at 20°C (68°F)

Try unplugging this end and verify no corrosion or damage.

If you remove it or drain the oil out, you should be able to get this value too:
Minimum level position resistance
484–536 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
 
Any updates Martin?

Not as yet, the mechanic seemed to think it was just a question of cleaning the sensor (without me suggesting what you guys said).

TBH at the moment the sensor is the least of my worries, riding home on Thursday the bike started making such a bad noise that I stopped and called out the ANWB (AAA), after firstly finding that my phone was empty, and I was pretty much in the middle of nowhere (I had taken the scenic route) :( so I pushed the bike a couple of Km's to the nearest gas station (in the sun) , where I could use the phone to call.
Anyway the bike got trailered to the bike shop.
The next day the shop listened to the bike and confirmed it was something internal :eek:. Unfortunately they haven't had time to look at it any further yet, it sounded like tomorrow will be the earliest.
Sorry I didn't give an answer earlier but I was away at the weekend.
 
Not as yet, the mechanic seemed to think it was just a question of cleaning the sensor (without me suggesting what you guys said).

TBH at the moment the sensor is the least of my worries, riding home on Thursday the bike started making such a bad noise that I stopped and called out the ANWB (AAA), after firstly finding that my phone was empty, and I was pretty much in the middle of nowhere (I had taken the scenic route) :( so I pushed the bike a couple of Km's to the nearest gas station (in the sun) , where I could use the phone to call.
Anyway the bike got trailered to the bike shop.
The next day the shop listened to the bike and confirmed it was something internal :eek:. Unfortunately they haven't had time to look at it any further yet, it sounded like tomorrow will be the earliest.
Sorry I didn't give an answer earlier but I was away at the weekend.

WTF? Damn - Sorry to hear that! Not good. Keep us posted!
 
broken cam chain tensioner?

this is what mine sounded like when it failed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOdDJY5zuu4

How many miles on yours Greg (when that happened)?

[MENTION=673]Cloggy[/MENTION] And how many on yours? What did it sound like? It went from everything is fine to #!$@%!#%@ all in matter of seconds or what?
 
Yes, hopefully it's a coincidence and only a CCT problem added to the sensor.. :)
 
broken cam chain tensioner?

this is what mine sounded like when it failed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOdDJY5zuu4

Thanks Greg, I think that could have been part of it, my engine changed it's tune first and then after 100metres or so it added a few clanking sounds which was when I stopped. I didn't ride more than 200metres after it changed it's tune. The mechanic reacons it might be the cam chain tensioner in the best case scenario, this with some other minor damage. In the worst case he was talking about a second hand engine block :eek:

How many miles on yours Greg (when that happened)?

[MENTION=673]Cloggy[/MENTION] And how many on yours? What did it sound like? It went from everything is fine to #!$@%!#%@ all in matter of seconds or what?

I have over 97000km's on mine, the engine first changed its tune and then added a couple of clattering noises for good measure.

Yes, hopefully it's a coincidence and only a CCT problem added to the sensor.. :)

would be nice but the mechanic confirmed my suspicion that it was was an internal mechanical problem.

Got an old battered learner bike on loan, an ER-5 with crash bars, slow as hell (it takes a while to wind up) and the brakes are so bad (in comparison).
 
I got lucky with my CCT, the chain didn't slip off, I rode it for maybe 90 seconds after it failed. Still not a cheap repair, the CCT itself was about £120, and add another 150 at least for labour and checking no valves were bent. If you wanted to risk it you could just try fitting a new cct and seeing if it runs... I got my valve clearances done at the same time, and it serviced, cost me almost £500 in total.
 
I got lucky with my CCT, the chain didn't slip off, I rode it for maybe 90 seconds after it failed. Still not a cheap repair, the CCT itself was about £120, and add another 150 at least for labour and checking no valves were bent. If you wanted to risk it you could just try fitting a new cct and seeing if it runs... I got my valve clearances done at the same time, and it serviced, cost me almost £500 in total.

Thanks for the info Greg, I think this would be the best case scenario for me, I'm keeping my fingers crossed, I had the bike booked in for a major service including valves anyway so the equivelent of £500 would be good :thumbup:.

Edit: sorry Cliff I thought you meant circuit with CCT in stead of cam chain tensioner, yeah that could be the problem.
 
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If it was still running when you turned it off, if the cam chain jumped, you probably got by WITHOUT BENDING any VALVES(which is really good).

One member previously posted it would run with one tooth off and no valve damage.

Besides the CCT, you'll probably be looking at a new cam chain and rear chain guide(that takes the brunt of the wear, part #12).

 
Yeah I got my chain replaced, given the mileage it would probably be a good idea to replace the runners too. I didn't replace them because there was a couple of week wait for parts, and mine looked to be in decent condition.
 
Just heard from the garage it was the "knokkenas ketting spanner"

Ok in English the CCT (cam chain tensioner) :thumbup:

He inspected everything else and it was all OK, in total it will cost me about €100 extra (on top of the major service and valve adjustment) for the work.

He hopes to have it fixed by saturday, not that it takes so long but they have other work booked in.

Yes I'm a happy chappy :D
 
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