LCR
Member
Since your saying you were having problems with your battery and/or charging system I would def get that checked out before you start taking engine covers off.
Error Code 12?
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Totally agree! I thought he had cranked it with a good battery but if he's using a bad battery.
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Yes he needs to have a working battery and charging system.
I had a charging system/battery issue last May, after changing the battery the problem was fixed. But once again, after 4-5 months with a new battery, I am having charging/battery issue again. This is why I am thinking that there is something wrong with my charging system. Someone had mentioned that it was the voltage regulator. I jumped started my bike with a car with it's motor running and somebody said that that was very bad thing to do.
If it's a failing charging system, this could lead to my failed crankshaft posisiton sensor.
Kenny,
This procedure does say oil so it looks like you have to dump the oil. The plug is #1 and the crankshaft position sensor is #5 The rotor is #6.
Hope your oil change is near due.
See attached.
I'm pissed off on hearing that, I just swapped out my oil and filter last week. Not even 200 miles on the clock with the new change. I put the good oil in too, the Castrol 12.99 per quart.
Hopefully, it's just a loose wire or disconnecting the battery will reset everything.
Otherwise, I think this this is going to the repair shop, this repair sounds like it's getting too technical. Mechanically, I suck. Period.
To clairify things, are you saying not to take off the Cranking Sensor Cover until the oil is drained?
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Kenny,
Talk to LCR about oil. I think he's got a solution for you.
Also as others have mentioned you should have a working charged system before you consider that error code.
For some reason I thought you had cranking operational bike...
Charge the battery and get it load tested. I know you have a tender. If the battery is good you could have a bad stator or Voltage regulator/rectifier.
The reason you can damage your regulator/rectifier when you jump the bike from a car is if the car is running, the regulator on the bike sees it's threshold voltage provided from the car charging system and because bike uses a shunt type regulator it passes additional current through a solid state device that is coupled to a heat sink and dissipates the additional current as heat. Since a cars charging system provides much more current than the bike's regulator/rectifier can dissipate, the bike's regulator can be damaged.
You can jump start from a car but the car must not have the engine running.
Dude, I love this forum and its members. Excellent explanation Cliff, I was wondering about this when I read it further up in this thread.
Kenny, best of luck with your error code. Could it be that your stator/alternator/whatever generates juice for our bikes is going out? 6 months is an awful short lifespan for any vehicle battery.
And Kenny don't worry about jinxing yourself - I've heard you talk about not having mechanical problems several times (in person) before, and your bike has been running fine since then, up until this point.
Kenny, best of luck with your error code. Could it be that your stator/alternator/whatever generates juice for our bikes is going out? 6 months is an awful short lifespan for any vehicle battery.
And Kenny don't worry about jinxing yourself - I've heard you talk about not having mechanical problems several times (in person) before, and your bike has been running fine since then, up until this point.
So my gameplan is to change out the voltage regulator and stator first, or are they the same? What part number would that be on Ron Meyers? I want to make sure I order the correct.
Too bad there isn't a bike being parted out.
I might try disconnecting the battery and see if I can get the error code to dissapear. But I am not going to go near the Crankshaft Sensor unitl the charging system is swapped out.
Looks like I'll be a cruiser dude for a while. Everybody is telling me that I don't look the part (riding in full gear). I want to look like a pro, not a poser.
Au Contraire; Just rub the magic search button: http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/39613-f-s-stock-rectifier-regulator-assembly.html
Item 19 of the following fiche:
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LCR
Member
If you want to cross reference the part number against R6 and R1s to see if they are the same I will check the racing forums. someone is usually always parting out a bike on one of them.
Now THAT is comedy right there!
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
Given the history you are eliciting, Kenny, I'm with the others here that it is likely the R/R (rectifier/regulator). As Cliff explained, you can jump start the bike off a car so long as the car is off without damaging it, but doing it on a running car will likely fry the R/R and possibly other electronic goodies. I would test your R/R first, then look into the Stator (like the alternator of your car), then start looking into these sensors.
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So you are willing to piss away a bunch of money on a guess instead of spending 3-5 minutes to see if a connector is loose?
Oil does NOT need to be drained to remove and reinstall the timing gear/pickup cover.
I'd still opt for inspection before replacement. 1st vote does include a new battery and get it to crank on its own and see what comes of it.
The Battery died for a reason. Either it's bad or it has a continuous drain on it which kills it so you trickle it and the plates sulfate. The process kills the battery.
You have extra lights, does it get reved over 5k long enough to charge when you ride? Maybe someone who puts about could over time nuke a battery.
But jumping can hurt things too. Get a battery in there and tell us something new.
The Battery died for a reason. Either it's bad or it has a continuous drain on it which kills it so you trickle it and the plates sulfate. The process kills the battery.
You have extra lights, does it get reved over 5k long enough to charge when you ride? Maybe someone who puts about could over time nuke a battery.
But jumping can hurt things too. Get a battery in there and tell us something new.
The current battery installed which is about 4-5 months old has never been subjected to a jump start. It has been the previous battery(s) that were jump started. Which makes me to believe why would a new battery would go south so quickly?
I have the day off tommorow, I should be able to trouble shoot a lot of the things that everyone has suggested then.
Once again, thanks everyone!
I have the day off tommorow, I should be able to trouble shoot a lot of the things that everyone has suggested then.
Once again, thanks everyone!
But did you say it trickle charged often? Sometimes this will cause the plate to sulfate. This also builds resistance internal to the battery which effectively makes it drain itself. The end result is voltage drops and total amperage available for cranking is reduced.
As for the oil, leave the bike on the side stand and you'll be fine. Even if you loose some oil, the filter is new. Leave it there and add oil when done. There is new rule that says if you drain new oil out for a repair that you MUST replace the filter. For that matter if you can get a pan clean enough you could put the oil back in it but IMO you don't have to drain it anyways.
Visually Look were the end of the dipstick is. Its below the area you intend to remove!
I still want to know what is up that caused you to have to charge and replace your battery?
As for the oil, leave the bike on the side stand and you'll be fine. Even if you loose some oil, the filter is new. Leave it there and add oil when done. There is new rule that says if you drain new oil out for a repair that you MUST replace the filter. For that matter if you can get a pan clean enough you could put the oil back in it but IMO you don't have to drain it anyways.
Visually Look were the end of the dipstick is. Its below the area you intend to remove!
I still want to know what is up that caused you to have to charge and replace your battery?
btw - its not the battery that gets harmed from jumping. So how many batteries has this bike had? Se Cliff's posts.
NOW = current battery
Previous = 1 battery ago
"previous battery(s) that were jump started" = sounds like 3 or more?????
Like I said above, do you have anything added to the bike to drain the battery? Extra lights, something else?
Tell me how you ride; shift points, duration. Number short trips etc. Example: Lets say you ride 150 miles in 2 mile increments turning the engine off every 2 miles. This is a BIG DEAL compared to 2 75 mile trips at 70mph.
For the most part if my bike is started, its on for 45 minutes and will be above 5000 RPM most of the time = happy battery!
Update: Battery disconnected for 30 minutes, and after connecting still gives me an error code 12.
Ontop of the baterry, I had written in the install date with mileage. 5/28/11, and the current mileage makes it at 9,000 miles.
I am going to Cycle Gear and get a new battery. They will replace it for free if my battery cannot hold a charge. I had it on the tender for the past two days so it will have a full charge I'm presuming, how are they going to determine if it's bad?
Ontop of the baterry, I had written in the install date with mileage. 5/28/11, and the current mileage makes it at 9,000 miles.
I am going to Cycle Gear and get a new battery. They will replace it for free if my battery cannot hold a charge. I had it on the tender for the past two days so it will have a full charge I'm presuming, how are they going to determine if it's bad?
I have a little experience with batteries....
We have to test our beacon light batteries 2x a year.
They can put a load tester on it.
We check the voltage, put it on the tester for 10min ,take it off, then check it again to see if it holds a charge.
We have to test our beacon light batteries 2x a year.
They can put a load tester on it.
We check the voltage, put it on the tester for 10min ,take it off, then check it again to see if it holds a charge.
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I would bring the old battery to an automotive store/walmart, etc, most will check it for free.... They or you, can/will fully charge the battery then perform a load test on it.
If you have a voltage tester, the battery should show at least 12 volts sitting with NO LOAD... Fully charged 13+ volts..
If you have at least 12 volts and a meter, you can get an idea by leaving the meter hooked up and cranking over the motor. That will put some load on the battery and it shouldn't drop much. (I had my original battery just starting to fail but it would start with as low as 8 volts).
You can hook up jumpers, as previously stated, from a car NOT RUNNING, to get it running. If it starts, rev it up some, the voltage should rise with rev's. If it stays at 12 volts or so, your just reading the voltage off the battery and the bikes not charging (Probably a voltage regulator)....
Also, as previously posted, you can remove the right side cam chain cover without loosing any oil, just make sure your on the side stand.
I suspect your charging system is working just borderline after jumping off a running car, thus you get limited life off your replaced batteries as they never get fully charged..
Good luck..
