Error Code 12?

VEGASRIDER

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Update: Battery was replaced, as it failed the load test over at Cycle Gear. Amazing, just after four months. I'm on my 3rd Cycle Gear Battery, but it's a lifetime guarantee, so no additional cost to me.

After charging the new battery, I'm going to install it along with my new rectifier that should be arriving early this week. I hope this will cure the error code and get my bike going again. If not, then I am going to focus on the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

So far I am only $45 out of pocket for two new parts.

I have retired the 1600 Roadster Cruiser as the fuel economy was killing me. I had to go borrow my former roomate's R6, he and I got our bikes the same time. I have almost 72k on my bike, he doesn't even have 5k on his. Well, not for long...
 

rsw81

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Awesome Kenny. You should show that R6 what it's been missing by being ridden by its current owner...:BLAA:

I'm curious to see how this all goes with the new R/R and battery. I'm not sure that it will clear the code on it's own. Someone else may know more, but I don't think simply disconnecting the battery will reset the error code. I know on my Triumph I either have to cycle the bike hot/cold three times or get it cleared by the dealership.

Looking forward to hearing what this ends up being! The suspense is killing me.
 

VEGASRIDER

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Update and need help now. New battery and I have replaced my rectifier, that was easy. Bike still gives me an error code 12 but it will crank.

Now I have removed the cover for the crankshaft position sensor, I think? No oil leaked out. But I'm not sure where the sensor is, did I remove the correct cover. Here's a picture. Where do I go from here?

P1010743.jpg
 

Motogiro

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Update and need help now. New battery and I have replaced my rectifier, that was easy. Bike still gives me an error code 12 but it will crank.

Now I have removed the cover for the crankshaft position sensor, I think? No oil leaked out. But I'm not sure where the sensor is, did I remove the correct cover. Here's a picture. Where do I go from here?

P1010743.jpg


Kenny,
That large cover needs to come off. You took off the small cover that reveals the rotor. The large cover has the sensor mounted to it.

Have you followed the wire from that area to the harness where it plugs in.
Sometimes the contacts get funky and just unplugging and plugging the unit back in will clean the plug contacts. Try that and see if she'll start. If it doesn't start you should get an ohm meter and test it at the plug.
 

Motogiro

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I took a closer look at the exploded drawing and you may not need to drain the oil to access the sensor. I would just put a drain pan under the thing and go for it, if you make a mess that is what rags were invented for:rolleyes::D

Jerry

John said he doesn't have to drain the oil...

Do it with the bike on the side stand.
 

Motogiro

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Also look at LCR's post #8 on this. Get an Ohm meter. Lift the tank and disconnect the plug from the harness. Put the Ohm meter on x 100 range.

You don't have to pull the cover to do this.

Positive lead on the grey wire and the negative lead on the black wire of the crank position sensor. You do this at the pins in the plug going to the sensor.

The reading should be between 248 and 372 ohms. If you get no reading or a higher reading than 372 it's probably faulty.

If it reads good and you've inspected the plug and wire then there is another problem. The rotor could have spun and is now out of time. Either a chaffed wire or bad connection at the ECU or worse a bad ECU. Let's check all the simple stuff first. I'm betting on something simple...

So if the unit passes the ohms test then inspect harness, pull ECU plug and plug back in. Try to start.
If it doesn't start then pull the larger cover and inspect the metal rotor. The rotor should not be loose. Check that the bolt holding the rotor is tight It has a keyed section on the rotor that keeps it at a specific spot on the shaft it's mounted to.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I've replaced that side cover and KNOW, if its on the side stand, the oil will NOT NEED TO BE DRAINED.

From the tech section reading codes:

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

I have an 07 Yamaha shop manual as a PDF file should you need it. PM me.
BTW, post #8, the diagram is about the same as the 04 model.

Good luck..
 
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VEGASRIDER

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I had another friend who also has a FZ6 who's also a Rider Coach swing by and test the sensor wires for me. The reading was low or none at all. Opened up the casing which by the way the oil did not leak. The sensor is well above the oil pan.

P1010745.jpg


It appears that one side of the sensor has grinded away. Most likely caused by a faulty Cam Chain Tensioner. So now, I must by a new sensor, gasket and a new Cam Chain Tensioner. Amazing how accurate that error code is.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Excellent you finally found the problem....

Something to pay attention to, once the tensioner is unbolted and extends fully, see how far away from the block the mating surfaces are. It'll give you an idea if the chain is stretched any/some and/or the chain guides, especially the rear ,are worn. The rear guide takes the grunt of the wear. I belive there should be an inner edge to guide the chain, if part of its deeper than the rest, its worn from the chain.

The bolts (phillips heads), at least on mine, were EXTREMLY TIGHT. If you have access to a hand held impact tool with the correct bit would be a big help (to have it available). Recomended torque, 7.2 ft lbs for the pick up sensor.

Good luck, keep us posted.
 

Cali rider

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Just a couple of follow-ups:

..........It'll give you an idea if the chain is stretched any/some and/or the chain guides, especially the rear ,are worn. The rear guide takes the grunt of the wear. I belive there should be an inner edge to guide the chain, if part of its deeper than the rest, its worn from the chain..........
+1 The guides are simply Delrin shoes that have the chain constantly sliding against them. If they are worn you should replace them. Basically remove the valve cover and pull them straight up. And honestly, now would be the time to actually have the valve clearances checked, the term is "Preventive maintenance".

......The bolts (phillips heads), at least on mine, were EXTREMLY TIGHT. If you have access to a hand held impact tool with the correct bit would be a big help (to have it available). Recomended torque, 7.2 ft lbs for the pick up sensor...

Again, +1 If you don't have one, buy this: Impact Screwdriver Set with Case from Harbor Freight, 2 stores in Las Vegas.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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And if you do replace the cam chain guides/check valves, check the cam timing as I believe the marks are on the inside of the cam gears (accesable only from inside the valve cover), just to make sure you didn't jump a tooth...

Good luck!
 

teeter

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Interesting findings, Kenny. I'm always impressed when OBD system do what they were designed to do.

Oddly enough mine is showing this same code after I accidentally drained the battery and tried to to charge it yesterday. I have to assume my CPS is not the real issue though considering the timing of the code. I'll disconnect the battery and play around with it tonight. I just may need a new batt.. it's the original from 2006 and it's never been "tended." Of course, my bike never sits for very long.
 

VEGASRIDER

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I am waiting to receive the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Had to be special ordered from Japan, there were zero stock in the USA.

No problem on the Cam Chain Tensioner, gasket and cover. In stock.

I haven't gone this long without riding a FZ. Good thing I can rely on riding my roomates R6 on a daily basis.
 

teeter

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I am waiting to receive the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Had to be special ordered from Japan, there were zero stock in the USA.

How long do you have to wait? Not that riding an R6 is the worst thing in the world. I wouldn't want to own it, but borrowing one... That's a different story!


(BTW, I was very fortunate... my code-12 was fixed with a good slow charge and a battery disconnect.)
 

VEGASRIDER

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And after five weeks.....the bike is running again. New pickup assembly for the crankshaft and a new camchain tensioner. Error code 12 is gone. Just finished washing the R6 and the fizzer as well. Going to take it for a test ride, but the engine already sounds much quieter.
 

printimage2

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I had an error code 12 problem on my 2006 FZ6 and solved it by replacing the starter relay ($100 from dealer). My bike only has 6k original gentle miles on it, so I was really apprehensive of the problem being something as significant as a failed Crankshaft Position Sensor. The repair job was super easy and is covered in the Haynes Yamaha FZ6 Fazer #4751 service and repair manual, Chapter 8 section 21. The Haynes book even tells you how to test the unit before replacing it. This might help to isolate the problem and tell you what part(s) need to be replaced.

I wish everyone good luck with repairing their motorcycle.

I had to write in to help the community. You helped me and I appreciate it.

EDIT: Here is a link that opened my eyes to the solution.
Youtube: "Yamaha Code 12 no start fix!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgvebpSEmSY
 
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Motogiro

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I had an error code 12 problem on my 2006 FZ6 and solved it by replacing the starter relay ($100 from dealer). My bike only has 6k original gentle miles on it, so I was really apprehensive of the problem being something as significant as a failed Crankshaft Position Sensor. The repair job was super easy and is covered in the Haynes Yamaha FZ6 Fazer #4751 service and repair manual, Chapter 8 section 21. The Haynes book even tells you how to test the unit before replacing it. This might help to isolate the problem and tell you what part(s) need to be replaced.

I wish everyone good luck with repairing their motorcycle.

I had to write in to help the community. You helped me and I appreciate it.

Interesting.... How did you come to replacing the starter relay? Was the bike just throwing the Error code #12 or was it not starting and threw the code?
 
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