IAMJUSTIFYD
Junior Member
Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Got it on. That and a new cable..big difference!!
Got it on. That and a new cable..big difference!!
Clutch Slave Lever
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gnyce
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Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Finally installed mine (was missing the ring pliers). Yes, the pull really is easier, _feels_ like a just-lubed/new cable. Zone is larger, still getting used to it (only been a day), but does make smoother shifting easier to do. A win. Thank you again [MENTION=28628]User[/MENTION] for the tip!
Finally installed mine (was missing the ring pliers). Yes, the pull really is easier, _feels_ like a just-lubed/new cable. Zone is larger, still getting used to it (only been a day), but does make smoother shifting easier to do. A win. Thank you again [MENTION=28628]User[/MENTION] for the tip!
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Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
As I pulled a tendon in my left (clutch) elbow recently, I ordered and installed one today (to ease the slight pain when I pull in the lever).
I don't believe it's noted previously, but there is no punch mark for alignment purposes (no biggon).
It is slightly easier and the engagement zone slightly longer.
I prefer the shorter zone but will keep it on until my elbow heals up, then put the stocker back on, (you can shift a little faster with the shorter zone).
BTW, cable alignment is a non issue.
As I pulled a tendon in my left (clutch) elbow recently, I ordered and installed one today (to ease the slight pain when I pull in the lever).
I don't believe it's noted previously, but there is no punch mark for alignment purposes (no biggon).
It is slightly easier and the engagement zone slightly longer.
I prefer the shorter zone but will keep it on until my elbow heals up, then put the stocker back on, (you can shift a little faster with the shorter zone).
BTW, cable alignment is a non issue.
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Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Update, took it off, put the stocker back on.
I couldn't get used to the change, shifting seemed slower with the longer range...
Update, took it off, put the stocker back on.
I couldn't get used to the change, shifting seemed slower with the longer range...
swedespeed
Member
Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Interesting. Although I could definitely see how this is possible after riding the bike in stock form for so long, you're probably used to it. Coming from Kawasaki I was disgusted by the clutch lever and I immediately modified the slave arm before racking up too many miles on the bike.
Interesting. Although I could definitely see how this is possible after riding the bike in stock form for so long, you're probably used to it. Coming from Kawasaki I was disgusted by the clutch lever and I immediately modified the slave arm before racking up too many miles on the bike.
MIJ_FZ6
New Member
Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Installed mine the other day. Love everything about it. Hope the cable doesn't mind rubbing a bit. Seems like the spring sits a bit higher, can't remember if that is how it normally is. Functions fine.
I knew better but I put a scratch on the clutch cover >:| Should have used the proper C Clip pliers. Bought some black rattle can paint that was recommended for Yamaha engines, filled it in a bit with a tooth pick. Still there but not white anymore
Installed mine the other day. Love everything about it. Hope the cable doesn't mind rubbing a bit. Seems like the spring sits a bit higher, can't remember if that is how it normally is. Functions fine.
I knew better but I put a scratch on the clutch cover >:| Should have used the proper C Clip pliers. Bought some black rattle can paint that was recommended for Yamaha engines, filled it in a bit with a tooth pick. Still there but not white anymore
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Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
That rubber "boot" on the lower end of the cable, it should slip OVER the outer cable end.
It helps keep water and crap from getting into the cable.
Installed mine the other day. Love everything about it. Hope the cable doesn't mind rubbing a bit. Seems like the spring sits a bit higher, can't remember if that is how it normally is. Functions fine.
I knew better but I put a scratch on the clutch cover >:| Should have used the proper C Clip pliers. Bought some black rattle can paint that was recommended for Yamaha engines, filled it in a bit with a tooth pick. Still there but not white anymore
That rubber "boot" on the lower end of the cable, it should slip OVER the outer cable end.
It helps keep water and crap from getting into the cable.
MIJ_FZ6
New Member
Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
It is dry rotted/cracked. It keeps falling off. I believe I would need a new cable to fix it :/
It is dry rotted/cracked. It keeps falling off. I believe I would need a new cable to fix it :/
MIJ_FZ6
New Member
Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
Is it time for a new clutch cable for me? I noticed a few hundred miles after this mod the plastic shielding on the clutch cable where it meets the end of the tube has cracked. Not exactly thrilled about it. Looks like it happened because the cable is being pushed against the metal harder than it was intended for. What do you guys think?
I was thinking to spend the $10 extra and get another "clutch cable holder" (what points the cable to the clutch slave lever) and bend that with a new cable.
Is it time for a new clutch cable for me? I noticed a few hundred miles after this mod the plastic shielding on the clutch cable where it meets the end of the tube has cracked. Not exactly thrilled about it. Looks like it happened because the cable is being pushed against the metal harder than it was intended for. What do you guys think?
I was thinking to spend the $10 extra and get another "clutch cable holder" (what points the cable to the clutch slave lever) and bend that with a new cable.
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Re: To Anyone Who Needs A Clutch Slave Arm
I would disconnect the clutch cable at both ends and see / feel if there's ANY binding what so ever.. Keep in mind, missing that boot allows water / grit to get into that cable.
The pic's I posted, I couldn't see the fraying, I felt it. Bought a new cable and cut the old one apart for pic's and see what failed. There was no wear at the lower end of the cable, just at the top where the sharp bend is...
If in doubt, just change the cable. Should that cable break in traffic, I can about guarantee you'll crash... Is it worth it?
And stick with OEM, NO Chinese knock offs...
I would disconnect the clutch cable at both ends and see / feel if there's ANY binding what so ever.. Keep in mind, missing that boot allows water / grit to get into that cable.
The pic's I posted, I couldn't see the fraying, I felt it. Bought a new cable and cut the old one apart for pic's and see what failed. There was no wear at the lower end of the cable, just at the top where the sharp bend is...
If in doubt, just change the cable. Should that cable break in traffic, I can about guarantee you'll crash... Is it worth it?
And stick with OEM, NO Chinese knock offs...
heath_AU
Junior Member
Order placed
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/1WS-16340-00-00
Just got new clutch springs delivered - as the claimed heavy duty ones i got from EBC are total **** - instead of a claimed 30% stronger - they feel about 20% weaker than stock - i slip on every launch
Now have some walker springs - so will also upgrade the actuator when i do them
Thanks heaps man
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/1WS-16340-00-00
Just got new clutch springs delivered - as the claimed heavy duty ones i got from EBC are total **** - instead of a claimed 30% stronger - they feel about 20% weaker than stock - i slip on every launch
Now have some walker springs - so will also upgrade the actuator when i do them
Thanks heaps man
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Just an update on this,
Levers are available:
Levers are available:
Sdaniels
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Just put the longer push lever on. Like Scott said, it's not a massive difference in longer engagement zone & less effort but it is there. Kind of on the fence on whether to do the hydro clutch master. I still think those 90 degree bends will always be an issue. Riding the bike the first time with a dry cable, nearly seized clutch lever pivot & stock push lever was a little aggravating but I still rode the bike. Might leave well enough alone.
EDIT: Something I may have also missed is that it's not a clutch issue but a throttle issue. It's a little 'sticky'...it's smooth but it doesn't snap back to closed when I let it go. I lubed the cables up, cleaned up the sleeve/handlebar & it's better but it's still not 100%. Just ordered cables so I'll see what I see when they arrive.
EDIT: Something I may have also missed is that it's not a clutch issue but a throttle issue. It's a little 'sticky'...it's smooth but it doesn't snap back to closed when I let it go. I lubed the cables up, cleaned up the sleeve/handlebar & it's better but it's still not 100%. Just ordered cables so I'll see what I see when they arrive.
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Sdaniels
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I'm going with the hydraulic clutch master. Anybody want the MT07 push lever, cover shipping & it's yours. Shoot me an email, [email protected]
Sdaniels
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Magura hydraulic clutch installed. This is how the bike should have come stock & there is no replacement for it. Smooth as glass.
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Pic installed?
Sdaniels
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how 'bout the business end?
Sdaniels
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The pull is much lighter. Almost to the point of being too light but the engagement zone for the clutch is longer & I think that's why. With a new cable & the extended push lever I still felt releasing the clutch was never perfectly smooth.
Sdaniels
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I'm trying to get a good shot of it. My phone can't adjust to that kind of lighting & trying to hold a flashlight isn't working either. Doesn't want to focus. I'll keep trying
