Stator was just different overall, it's hard to explain but the plug in was different, and the ends of each coil was different, mine was flat on the edges and this one had like a ridge on each one.
And yea if it get it welded ill most likely have to get it drilled. any tips for that procedure?
Whether you weld it or JB it, once the damaged case is filed down (pretty much done), I would (leave the stator off just yet) slip the outer case onto the block and just lightly snug it down.
HOPEFULLY, the welder, per you instructions,
filled in that hole (you don't want a void where your new threads DON'T match up with the old) so you pretty much starting a new threaded hole from scratch.
Take a center punch, if need be, wrap duct tape around the end to help
center it in the outer case hole , but still REACH THE BLOCK. Center punch it for the center.
Make sure you have the correct, metric tap and use the appropriate sized drill bit.
Id start with a 1/8 bit, put a small piece of tape on the bit so you know how deep to go and DON't go beyond that tape. It'd probably be a good idea to measure the depth of the hole (if theres enough left)
before it gets welded.
Get 2 or 3 much longer metric bolts 2-3" long just to use a reference point. I'd
gently bottom them out in the hole so their NOT drooping, more below.
Put those bolts in adjacent holes and get the bike on the centerstand. With
another set of eyes (and if you have a "level bubble" on your drill) have your helper (and the bubble) line up the drill bit so its not crooked going in. The helper will pretty much
be looking from different angles MAKING SURE the drill bit is lined up/parallel with the 2 or 3 long bolts. Again, some tape on the drill bit so you don't go too deep would be good.
Most taps have the first part of the tap slender before they get to full width/thread. Being this hole isn't very deep, the tap will only go in so far (certainly not enough). Either pick up a nother tap with a much flatter end for final cutting/(full depth) OR just take the original tap and grind down the end (tappered end) so you can pretty much run what's left of the tap thru to the bottom of the hole making threads all the way to the end. Make sure the ground down end of the tap is cleaned up (just run a nut down it) as you don't want to booger up your new aluminum threads...
I'm assumming you've used a tap, lots of oil, back and forth clearing the new theads, slow, steady progress. **If that tap breaks off in the case, as hard as it is, you just opened up another large can of worms**. Practice on some spare aluminum if need be to get the feel of it..
The soft aluminum block shouldn't be much of a challenge against the hardened tap but potentially not cleaning out the cuttings can cause an issue.
If your not comfy with the above, any decent machine shop should be able to do it fairly cheap and quickly.
That screw is just holding the case onto the main block, so its not like its supporting a high stress bearing/shaft, etc...:thumbup:
