Check Enginge Light/Diagnostic Mode question

[CoolATIGuy]

Over the last couple weeks, the orange check engine light (not coolant light) has started coming on while riding, now almost every ride when it's warm out (doesn't seem to when it's cooler). It doesn't kick on until I hit the interstate, and that's pretty much the only time it's on - and it seems to stay on longer in warmer weather. The temp gauge stays fine, I've filled with gas since it started, it's not smoking or smelling or running funny or having any trouble at all starting up any time I go to turn it on. Sometimes the light is on for just a minute, usually it stays on for most of the whole ride.

My guess is either the coolant, which is about halfway between full and low, although I thought the dash had a separate coolant light, or maybe a faulty sensor?

I put the bike in Diagnostic Mode, it displays "Diag", but when I press Select it doesn't cycle through anything. Does that mean it's not currently throwing any codes, or that there are none in memory? Or am I doing it wrong?

The check engine light isn't on currently; as mentioned it's only on while riding, usually at interstate speeds in warmer weather.


TIA!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not sure what that light is connected to BUT, is your oil level at least mid way up the dip stick? You may want to try topping it off if it isn't already.

There is an oil level warning light that will activate with a low oil level. With riding on the highway, more oil is pumped up to the top of the engine faster vs sitting or going slow.

That may be triggering that sensor. Several members posted with a slightly low oil level, especially accelerating activated that warning light..

You should have a temp gauge on the dash you can visually monitor. Is it rising much above 210F? Is the fan kicking on?

When was the last time the coolant was changed? You may want to pull the radiator cap and give it a good cleaning with clean water.

While underway and fully warmed up, the coolant hoses should be pretty hard. If their soft, your cap is probably not holding pressure and allowing the engine to overheat .

 

[VEGASRIDER]

For bikes 2006 and earlier, the engine temp indicator is by bars, no actual numbers. I'm having temperature issues, running hot at slow speeds, going up grades or stopped. I've swapped out caps and now wondering if it's a thermostat issue as Randy aka Final Impact had mentioned.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Good suggestions. I check oil during every fuel fillup, just had it changed a couple months ago, level is fine and color is fine.

It is the orange check engine light that comes on solid. Light can sit on for up to 10-15 minutes (my rides are mostly commuting).

Temp gauge as other comment mentions is bars not degrees. But temperature has not been out of normal. Bike has not run out of the ordinary.

Coolant has been just over 2 years ago.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For bikes 2006 and earlier, the engine temp indicator is by bars, no actual numbers. I'm having temperature issues, running hot at slow speeds, going up grades or stopped. I've swapped out caps and now wondering if it's a thermostat issue as Randy aka Final Impact had mentioned.

Tks for the info..

The thermostat is at the rear of the engine, and per another member, can be replaced WITHOUT pulling the throttle bodies, etc as the manual calls for. Its tight but very do-able. Their not expensive and can be tested but, IMO, if you have it out, just replace it... Has the coolant been serviced (changed) within the last couple of years at least?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

My coolant was just flushed and replaced this winter.

 

[FZSexy]

in autos check engine lights are mostly related to fuel and emission systems. might that be the case here, also?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Checking my S2 owners manual (I know yours is an S1), that warning light has to do with "various electrical curcuits".

On my S2, a 2 digtit error code will appear under the fuel gauge.

I don't know how the S1 works, your owners manual may shed more information.

Something basic to check is your charging system. If you can get to the battery and put a volt meter on it and rev it (hold it there for several seconds for the system to catch up, to approx 4-5,000 RPM's, see what the charging voltage is. I know you said the bike runs fine, but if the system is not putting out an adequet, approx 14 volts, it may trigger that warning light. While your there, check that the harness wires to the battery are clean and tight.

Another simple check is the harness to the voltage regulator and the ECM. Be especially cautious pulling the ECM harness from the ECM as the connectors are pretty small and somewhat delicate. Your looking for any corrosion (green), the VR, and heat distortion, especially on the harness plug itself.

[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION], [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] should be able to help you dig further if need be..

 

[ChanceCoats123]

A quick comment about the diagnostic mode: I have a 2004 and when I was checking my TPS sensor, I ran into the same issue as you. I went into diagnostic mode and kept hitting select but it never changed the screen. When in diagnostic mode, hit both buttons to move through the options.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

No luck - I pressed each button, double pressed each button, pressed both together, pressed one while holding the other and vice versa, it will get into "Diag" mode but can't get it to do anything past that. My only guess is that there are no codes to cycle through..

Does the bike show current codes, or codes that have been thrown previously? How long of a memory does it have or how does that work?

 

[FinalImpact]

No luck - I pressed each button, double pressed each button, pressed both together, pressed one while holding the other and vice versa, it will get into "Diag" mode but can't get it to do anything past that. My only guess is that there are no codes to cycle through..

Does the bike show current codes, or codes that have been thrown previously? How long of a memory does it have or how does that work?

Do both set and reset work for the trip odometer aspect? If both button work, you might just disconnect the battery for like 5 min and try again.

I did have cluster apart for repairs due to c0ckroach poo and found the nasty to impair the switches. Both were cleaned after being removed from the circuit board and seeemed to work upon testing after cleaning with contact
Cleaner. You should be able to view 40 some odd values which the ECM is reading from its sensors.
Do you have an FSM? Can you post what process your using to access the various modes?

 

[Kenfz6]

Procedure from the s1 manual. Holding the buttons long enough?


Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine
stop switch to “OFF”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from
the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT”
and “RESET” buttons, turn the main
switch to “ON”, and continue to press the buttons
for 8 seconds or more.

All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.

“dIAG” appears on the LCD meter.
4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the CO
adjustment mode “Co” or the diagnostic
mode “dIAG”.
5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press
the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds
or more to execute the selection.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies
to the item that was verified with the
fault code number by pressing the “SELECT”
and “RESET” buttons.

The diagnostic code number appears on the
LCD meter (01-70).

To decrease the selected diagnostic code
number, press the “RESET” button. Press the
“RESET” button for 1 second or longer to automatically
decrease the diagnostic code numbers.

To increase the selected diagnostic code number,
press the “SELECT” button. Press the
“SELECT” button for 1 second or longer to automatically
increase the diagnostic code

 

[ChanceCoats123]

No luck - I pressed each button, double pressed each button, pressed both together, pressed one while holding the other and vice versa, it will get into "Diag" mode but can't get it to do anything past that. My only guess is that there are no codes to cycle through..

Does the bike show current codes, or codes that have been thrown previously? How long of a memory does it have or how does that work?

My understanding was that it doesn't show engine trouble codes. It allows you to test the various sensors around the bike to see if they are faulty and to help determine the cause of an issue.

For example, the TPS issues on the S1 bikes doesn't throw a trouble code, but you can manually use the diagnostic mode to check if the TPS is sending the correct information to the bike.

 

[Kenfz6]

When you are in diagnostic mode (diag then hold select and reset for 2 sec or more) you will enter the diagnostic mode table. you can see lots of stuff and cycle a few things from this area.

Search or a manual will help you lots here.

cycle down to code 61 using the select or reset buttons (they travel the list up and down), if no faults are present, a 00 will show. If there are codes, they will slowly cycle from one to the next.

From pg 7-12 of the service manual.

Good luck. Ken

 

[Motogiro]

Let's forget error codes for a minute, if you don't actually have an error code.

As previously suggested on this thread check connectors especially the Regulator/Rectifier plugs.

Since the symptom appears at higher rpm (highway) and warmer weather, I suggest you get a digital voltmeter securely rigged electrically and physically so that you can read it and take the bike for a highway ride. Note voltages because it may be an over voltage problem.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

"When you are in diagnostic mode (diag then hold select and reset for 2 sec or more) you will enter the diagnostic mode table. you can see lots of stuff and cycle a few things from this area."

Thanks, that did the trick. I hadn't tried holding down both buttons for long enough.

Codes are as follows; heading now to see what it all means..

d01:14
d03:99
d05:30
d06:30
d07:0
d08:0.6
d09:00
d20n
d21n
d30:00
d31:00
d36:00
d37:00
d48:00
d50:00
d51:00
d52:00
d60:00
d61flashing steadily every second or two between 12 and 46)
d62:2
d70:0

 

[Kenfz6]

12: no normal signal from crank position sensor

46: power to the fuel injection system abnormal/ check charging system

Battery going south? Heat soak issue?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You may want to read post #15

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Shouldn't be. Was just replaced a little over a year ago and haven't had any trouble with it since then. Right before I did that was having trouble, replaced the battery with a new one and still had trouble, had a shop do a bunch of diagnostics on the R/R, charging system, etc, and conclusion was I had a dud battery from Batteries Plus. They put their own in, I returned the defective one, and everything has been hunky dory since. I have a Battery Tender Junior and leads off the battery for easy charging, but don't use it much unless I'm not riding for awhile (like over the winter) - originally got when I was having all the battery troubles but decided to just hang onto it. I let it sit over a week recently and started right back up, no hesitations in over a year.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I meant to also say, those could be old codes stored from my previously mentioned battery troubles last year maybe? Should I clear the fault codes and see what kicks in again as the light comes on this upcoming week?

R/R and charging system was checked when the battery was replaced, as they thought at the time it might have been the cause.

So, you think plug a voltmeter into my charging harness and hook it up so I can read it realtime while I'm on the interstate? What should it be reading around 70mph?