Check engine light on

[astrovan2487]

I was on my way home from work today and noticed that the check engine light was on but the bike had no obvious problems. I rode a good 20 miles or so and no problems. The light only went off when I came to a stop and would then come back on and stay on after the engine got above 4000rpms. Pulled over to get gas, shut the bike off for a few minutes and the light never came back on, rode another 10-15 miles. How would I go about finding what trouble code caused the check engine light to come on and has anyone else had similar issues?

 

[2nd childhood]

Not sure if it's the same on motorcycles, but if that was a car having that issue, I'd say the gas cap wasn't sealed tight and when you stopped to get gas, you inadvertantly "fixed" the problem.

 

[fb40dash5]

Not sure if it's the same on motorcycles, but if that was a car having that issue, I'd say the gas cap wasn't sealed tight and when you stopped to get gas, you inadvertantly "fixed" the problem.

Only the CA models have an evaporative emissions system, which is the cause of that on a car... it checks the fuel tank and associated parts to see if they hold pressure and vacuum and don't leak gas vapor. Non-CA FZs just have a vent hose off the tank.

So now that we know what it ain't... I got nothing on what it is. Laptop is down or I'd open the FSM.

 

[2nd childhood]

Okay, I did some more googling and found this:

"Don't quote me but the fault may have to occur two or more times before stored.. These bikes do not require a computer to diagnose, just a service manual so to have your dealer read them should not take more than 10 mins. Start by depressing the SELECT and RESET buttons on the dash with the key OFF. Press and hold, turn the key on, you will notice the fuel guage start to flash. Continue holding them for 3-6 seconds. It will kick into diag mode. From there you will need a service manual or dealer to refer to for which codes are what. To exit diag. mode simply turn the key off. If your check engine light comes on (on a Yamaha) and is able to run often times it is a sensor reading out of spec in which case it will richen the fuel mixture to prevent any damage. If it is a component gone bad that will allow your bike to self destruct it is not supposed to run in which case the check engine light will flash while cranking."

Hope this helps. Good luck.....

 

[astrovan2487]

I went on another short ride last night and the light came back on twice. Each time it only came on for a few seconds then off. Still did not notice any performance issue with the bike. I tried getting into diagnostic mode by pressing the select and rest buttons, then turning the key on and holding the buttons for about 8-10 seconds, the screen says "dI" but then nothing else. how do I get it to read out the code? I've got the service manual for the 2007 downloaded, should that be the same for the 2008 or is that diagnostic mode different? Thanks for the help

 

[2nd childhood]

I'm kinda in over my head here, but I did find this on another Yamaha forum:

- PRESS & HOLD SELECT AND RESET BUTTONS WHILE TURNING KEY ON, CONTINUE TO HOLD BUTTONS FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 SECONDS

- DIAG APPEARS IN THE CLOCK AREA OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL

- RELEASE BUTTONS, PRESS & HOLD SELECT AND RESET BUTTONS AGAIN FOR APPROXIMATELY 2 SECONDS

- DISCONNECT FUEL PUMP CONNECTOR - LOCATED UNDER THE LEFT REAR CORNER OF GAS TANK. FUEL LIGHT ON INSTRUMENT PANEL WILL FLASH, THIS IS OK.

- INSTRUMENT PANEL WILL DISPLAY:
CLOCK SECTION: DI 01 (THIS IS THE 1ST DIANOSTIC CHECK)
ODOMETER SECTION: A NUMBER, USUALLY 15-17 (THIS AREA SHOWS THE VALUE OF THE SENSOR)

PERFORMING SENSOR CHECKS
( SELECT BUTTON WILL SCROLL UP, RESET BUTTON WILL SCROLL DOWN THRU THE CHECKS )

- DI 01 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR: TWIST THROTTLE, VALUE = : CLOSED =15 - 20, OPEN = 95 - 100.

- DI 02 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR: VARIES DEPENDING ON ATMOS. PRESS FOR THE DAY

- DI 03 - AIR INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR #1: VALUE = 10-200 MMHG

- DI 04- AIR INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR #2: VALUE = 10-200 MMHG

- DI 05 - INTAKE TEMP: MEASURE WITH TEMP GAUGE, COMPARE TO VALUE ON DISPLAY

- DI 07 - SPEED SENSOR: VALUE = 0-999

- DI 08 - LEAN ANGLE CUT OFF SENSOR: VALUE = 0.4 - 1.4 VOLTS

- DI 09 - FUEL SYSTEM VOLTAGE: VALUE = 0 - 18.7 VOLTS (12 VOLTS NORMAL)

- DI 10 - OIL TEMP SENSOR: VALUE = -30 TO 200*C / -22 TO 392*F

- DI 11 - ENGINE TEMP SENSOR: VALUE = -30 TO 200*C / -22 TO 392*F

- DI 20 - SIDE STAND: VALUE = ON/OFF

- DI 21 - NEUTRAL SWITCH: VALUE = NEUTRAL - ON, IN GEAR - OFF

- DI 30 - IGNITION COIL #1: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES.

- DI 31 - IGNITION COIL #2: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES.

- DI 36 - INJECTOR #1: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES WITH A CLICKING SOUND.

- DI 37 - INJECTOR #2: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES WITH A CLICKING SOUND.

- DI 50 - FUEL SYSTEM RELAY: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES WITH A CLICKING SOUND.

- DI 52 - HEADLIGHT RELAY: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD FLASH 5 TIMES WITH A CLICKING SOUND.

- DI 54 - LINEAR CONTROL VALVE: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK FOR ACTUATION (CYCLING) SOUND.

- DI 55 - DECOMPRESSION SOLENOID: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. CHECK FOR ACTUATION (CYCLING) SOUND.

- DI 60 - E2PROM: VALUE = 01 - 02 FOR CYLINDER MALFUNCTION. 00 = NO MALFUNTION.

- DI 61 - MALFUCTION HISTORY: VALUE = 11 TO 55, 00 = NO MALFUNTION.

- DI 62 - MALFUNTION HISTORY ERASE: 00 TO 21, 00 = NO MALFUNTION
TO ERASE HISTORY: TURN ENGINE STOP SWITCH TO OFF THEN BACK ON. DISPLAY SHOULD READ 00.

- DI 70 - CONTROL NMBER: DISPLAYS THE PROGRAM CONTROL NUMBER, VALUE = 00 - 255.



ENGINE CODES:

11 - NO SIGNAL RECEIVED FROM CYLINDER IDENTIFICATION SENSOR (CAM POSITION SENSOR)

12 - NO CRANK POSTION SIGNAL

13 - AIR INTAKE SENSOR #1 - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

14 - INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR #1 - PIPE CLOGGED OR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) STUCK

15 - TPS - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

16 - STUCK TPS SENSOR

19 - SIDE STAND SWITCH - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

20 - ATMOSPHERIC SENSOR VOLTAGE & AIR INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR VOLTAGE DIFFER GREATLY

22 - AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

23 - ATMOSPHERIC SENSOR - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

25 - AIR INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR #2 - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

26 - INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR #2 - PIPE CLOGGED OR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) STUCK

27 - OIL TEMP SENSOR - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

28 - ENGINE TEMP SENSOR - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

29 - DECOMPRESSION SOLENIOD (THERMISTOR) - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

30 - MOTORCYCLE HAS OVERTURNED

37 - FAULTY LINEAR CONTROL VALVE

38 - DECOMPRESSION SOLENOID - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

41 - LEAN ANGLE CUT OFF SWITCH - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

42 - NO NORMAL SIGNAL RECEIVED FROM SPEED SENSOR & OR NEUTRAL SWITCH OPEN/SHORTED

43 - ECU CAN NOT MONITOR BATTERY VOLTAGE - OPEN/SHORT DETECTED

50 - FAULTY ECU MEMORY

 

[FB400]

I had this happen to me a couple months ago when I got stuck in a long traffic jam. the fan was running for a good 15-20 minutes then the light came on.

Once I got the bike home I was able to recreate this happening by letting it idle for 30 minutes. (90 degrees out so fan runs quite a bit).

When turning the bike back on it showed code 46 which meant the charging system wasn't putting out enough power.

I did some diagnostics and found with both headlights on and the fan the running the bike runs at a deficit of volts ~12.4 volts. Over time this can run the battery down low.

 

[astrovan2487]

Just got back from another, longer ride. The light took awhile to come on, when it did I noticed that the temp reading on the screen went from about 168 (normal) down to 111. It never got above 120 (f) the whole ride back and the check engine light stayed on most of the time unless I came to a stop. When I got home and shut the bike off, then turned the key back on, the temp was reading 198 and seemed to be working correctly. Got to the diagnostic screen and it read codes 22, 30, 46. 22 is the air temp sensor, 30 means the bike has overturned (dropped the bike a few times when I first got it) and I havent figured out what 46 is yet.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the tech section SPECIFICALLY for the FZ6 (code 46 is in bold):

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 13
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake air pressure sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Probable cause of malfunction:
detected hose
clogged hose
Intake air pressure sensor hose is detached, clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 21
Diagnostic Code: 06
Symptom: Coolant temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective coolant temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 22
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 30
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: The motorcycle has overturned.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Overturned.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 33
Diagnostic Code: 30
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 1, #4).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 41
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: Lean angle cut-off switch-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective lean angle cut-off switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 42
Diagnostic Code: 07, 21
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the speed sensor; or, an open or
short circuit is detected in the neutral switch.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective speed sensor.
Malfunction in vehicle speed sensor detected unit.
Defective neutral switch.
Malfunction in the engine side of the neutral switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 44
Diagnostic Code: 60
Symptom: An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The CO adjustment value is not properly written on or read from the internal memory).

Fault Code: 46
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in "CHARGING SYSTEM".

Fault code: 50
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Faulty ECU memory. When this malfunction is detected, the code
number might not appear on the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The program and data are not
properly written on or read from the internal memory.)

Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-2
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-3
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-4
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also, page 8-31 in the Yamaha 07-09 shop manual states in detail how to check the diagnostic codes, etc...

PM sent.

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: the order is NOT by when it occurred.
After the engine has been stopped, the lowest fault code number appears on the clock LCD. Once a fault code has been displayed, it remains stored in the memory of the ECU until it is deleted.

So, it looks like the battery hit a low at some point and air temperature sensor was not successfully read a few times. You might want to confirm its connection is good. Also, please keep the Fizzer in the Upright position for the remainder of your journey! :thumbup:

So, to clear it and get a fresh read -
Within diag mode get to # 62 Malfunction history code erasure.

To erase the history, turn ON the engine stop switch.

 

[astrovan2487]

I reset the code history, cleaned battery and wiring harnesses, and checked the charging system. The battery load tested at 8 vdc so I definitely need a new battery. The charging system at 5000 rpms was only charging at about 13.4 vdc. The stator wires were all reading 26 vac, not sure if that's normal or low. I'll ride it again tomorrow and see if it throws another code

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I reset the code history, cleaned battery and wiring harnesses, and checked the charging system. The battery load tested at 8 vdc so I definitely need a new battery. The charging system at 5000 rpms was only charging at about 13.4 vdc. The stator wires were all reading 26 vac, not sure if that's normal or low. I'll ride it again tomorrow and see if it throws another code

Yep, 8 volts is super low, 13.4 volts is about a volt lower than normal too when charging.


Post #5 and some others should help:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/49904-bike-wont-start-again.html#post547347

Condensed check:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...2-condensed-wtf-wrong-my-charging-system.html
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
From a post made by Fred:

Originally Posted by Fred
I didn't see that anyone had posted this yet, so here's how you test your charging system.

1. Set your multimeter to DC volts and clip the leads to the battery terminals. With everything off, you should see about 12.6 volts or more on a charged battery.

2. Start the bike and watch the volts. They should increase once the engine is running.

3. Rev the engine up to 5000 RPM. Volts should now be around 14. The key here is that you're looking for an increase in voltage over what you saw when the bike was shut off. If voltage increases, then your charging system is working.

4. If you don't see a voltage gain, move to the next step. Locate the wire bundle going from the stator to the voltage regulator. Disconnect the connector between the two. This will be a three pin connector.

5. Set your multimeter to AC volts. Connect it to two of the pins on the connector that leads to the stator/engine. Start the bike and read the voltage. Then move the meter so it's testing another set ot two wires. You want to try all three combinations. You should see a high voltage, perhaps 60 volts. There's no specification for this voltage, so just make sure that you get the same high voltage with each wire pair that you test. Try this with each set of two wires until you've tried all three possible combinations. If any of the combinations does not produce voltage, you have a stator problem.

6. Instead of step 5, you can measure the resistance of the stator with the engine off. Set your meter to Ohms and, as above, try each possible combination of two wires. So test wires 1 and 2, then 1 and 3, and finally 2 and 3. From the service manual, resistance should be 0.22–0.34 Ω at 20°C (68°F).

If the stator checks out, then you either have a broken wire in your wiring harness, or the voltage regulator is bad.

Hope this helps.

 

[fastar1]

I reset the code history, cleaned battery and wiring harnesses, and checked the charging system. The battery load tested at 8 vdc so I definitely need a new battery. The charging system at 5000 rpms was only charging at about 13.4 vdc. The stator wires were all reading 26 vac, not sure if that's normal or low. I'll ride it again tomorrow and see if it throws another code

Replace the battery. Probably nothing else wrong with the bike (unless you keep riding it ad fry the generator).

 

[astrovan2487]

Think I'm going to just order a new battery and try it in a few weeks since I'm leaving for a 3 week trip to Colorado on Saturday I won't miss riding any. Don't want to risk damaging the stator. Any recommendations on a good brand of battery?

 

[fastar1]

Yuasa rocks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yuasa rocks.

That's what I've used in most/all my bikes...

There's several companies making lithium batteries but their a bit higher in price. I don't think I'd invest in one until you know you have your problem figured out....

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ my buddy put a very expensive battery in his. Let me say it hates the cold. Yes its a fraction the weight, but it died within a year and hardly cranked the dammed engine proper when warm on a good day. Over rated hype at the moment.

- A race team, go for it. For us and daily use per $$$, its hard to beat Pb + H2SO4 batteries!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

^^ my buddy put a very expensive battery in his. Let me say it hates the cold. Yes its a fraction the weight, but it died within a year and hardly cranked the dammed engine proper when warm on a good day. Over rated hype at the moment.

- A race team, go for it. For us and daily use per $$$, its hard to beat Pb + H2SO4 batteries!

I haven't followed up much on the lithiums lately, but yes, in the colder weather, the manufacturer wants you to turn on the lights, put some load on the battery, BEFORE CRANKING IT over. Once you do this, they say its fine.

IMO, I like my OEM standard Yuasa and will stick with it.