Changing tires with zip ties

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good Job and way to be creative Scott! That's exactly the type of thinking that gets it done on the cheap! Just don't sell your truck!

Now rig something to hold the wheel and protect the rotor(s) and you're set!

I have a 2x6 wooden plank and will (weather permitting), cut and secure it together to also fit the front tire as well, (All my flats have been the rear tire). I have smoe black indoor outdoor carpet I'll tack to the frame once its assembled...

Also need to pick up some of those HD zip ties too... :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Scott, can you list the L x W measurements? I have a short day at work tomorrow and I might have time to make this. Thanks much:thumbup:

WING IT Bro....... :BLAA:

The down leg is the only major unknown and really depends on WHAT you put under your wheel and how tall your hitch is. Making the down leg adjustable would be very helpful but you need tubing inside of tubing and minimal wobble. Thus it works on more vehicles/situations, but not required.

Wimpy arms = longer lever
Beer belly = shorter lever! :spank: :spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, can you list the L x W measurements? I have a short day at work tomorrow and I might have time to make this. Thanks much:thumbup:

My truck sits somewhat tall. I measured the FZ rear tire and found it to be approx 8" wide. I made the hitch part first, then the arm.

Once that was assembled, my "verticle piece" (cut 45 degrees on the end) was cut so it was just under 8" to the ground. With the adjacent holes in the main arm, its got a very wide amount of adjustability. I made the holes 1.5 " apart, but if I did it again, would likely do 1" apart.

Once the wooden "tire support" is under the tire, it'll raise it some, so I suspect I'll likely be using the second hole out. Make sure the arms for the verticle piece stick out quite a bit (AND ARE HEAVY) as they take the brunt of the downward force. The upward angle of the main leverage arm is about 75 degrees up and goes down fully until the arm hits the ground. All the bolts are fully snug just to keep any wobbling from creeping in and screwing up my wheel...

The farther you can make that arm travel up and down without binding, the more movement your working end will have (you really only need a few inches to break the bead)

For my particular set up, that verticle arm from the center of the bolt to the center of the 45 degree cut, is 13.25" I used a 8" wide box to simulate the tire/wheel so I had a ballpark idea where the working end needed to be..

Some spec's from another unit I referred to as well:

 

[pookamatic]

Until reading this thread I had just about written off doing the tires myself. Three things kept me from the task:

1) Breaking/setting the bead
2) Balancing
3) Alignment

I know the alignment can be done with strings. The breaking and setting doesn't seem so bad now. But the balancing... without purchasing a tool... Dynabeads?? This is news to me. Does anyone *not* recommend using this mystical product?

 

[motojoe122]

Until reading this thread I had just about written off doing the tires myself. Three things kept me from the task:

1) Breaking/setting the bead
2) Balancing
3) Alignment

I know the alignment can be done with strings. The breaking and setting doesn't seem so bad now. But the balancing... without purchasing a tool... Dynabeads?? This is news to me. Does anyone *not* recommend using this mystical product?

From what I remember they are good up to 100mph. I think they are worth a shot since the next set of tires will be a matched set. I'm due for a rear tire in the near future.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Until reading this thread I had just about written off doing the tires myself. Three things kept me from the task:

1) Breaking/setting the bead
2) Balancing
3) Alignment

I know the alignment can be done with strings. The breaking and setting doesn't seem so bad now. But the balancing... without purchasing a tool... Dynabeads?? This is news to me. Does anyone *not* recommend using this mystical product?

I've never used Dyna beads but just use static balancing for the tires.

Very easy to do.

I did make up a separate tool (square base ((bed frame actually))with two arms facing verticle, with two angles cut in it at the top, to suppport the wheel and axle) but you can get by without it.

For the front and rear tires, remove the calipers.

For the rear wheel, you need to remove the chain (we're getting rid of excess drag).

Once all the excess drag is off, you should be able to see if the tire is out of balance simply by watching the tire rotation. If it keeps settling at one point, you'll need some stick on weights as the tire IS OUT OF BALANCE..

Before removing the adhesive, simply tape some weights to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the rim. It'll likely take several tries, but just keep adding and sub tracting weights until there is NO heavy spots, the tire stops randomly.

Once you get that figured out, clean the rim real well, remove the sticky on the weights and attach to the wheel. Re-check your work and adjust as neccessary.

:thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Until reading this thread I had just about written off doing the tires myself. Three things kept me from the task:

1) Breaking/setting the bead
2) Balancing
3) Alignment

I know the alignment can be done with strings. The breaking and setting doesn't seem so bad now. But the balancing... without purchasing a tool... Dynabeads?? This is news to me. Does anyone *not* recommend using this mystical product?

Scott covered all but the alignment -
The front has nothing to align. Tighten the axle, push the forks together and then tighten the pinch bolts.
The back will go back to where it was so long as you push the tire ahead firmly while tightening it so as to seat the adjusting blocks/bolts. ** LOCK THE FRONT BRAKE ON SO YOU DON'T PUSH IT OFF THE CENTER STAND **

As for balancing; leave the calipers off and inner spacer (seats on dust shield) out on the front (less drag) and spin it 3 times. Should it stop in the same place 3 times you know its out of balance and action is required.

The rear you can do the same, leaving the caliper off and the chain drive hub. Spin it and see if it needs balanced.

 

[bryanwny]

Nice job on that custom bead breaker The back was easy with just 2x4's.. the front? Not so much! I gave up trying to break the bead and cut the damn tire off like I did with the back. I douched up what little "ring" of sidewall I had left on the rim, wedged my block (2x2; maybe 10" long; end of it was cut at an angle but not to a sharp point; I left a 1/4" flat spot on it) down in there after prying the sidewall as far down towards the center of the rim as I could.. and grabbed my BFH (Big F!#$ing Hammer) and gave it a few good whacks. Took like half a dozen smacks, but it worked lol.

 

[QuietEagle]

It seems that breaking the bead is the challenging part. I found it quick and simple to use a C-clamp. You need to be careful working around the rim, but it only takes a second to pop the bead and then you can thread the zip-ties in while the clamp takes a bit of the pressure off. YMMV. Much simpler than trying to balance 2x4's or run over it with your truck, etc.

Since the wheels are already off, the Harley dealer in my city will balance them for the cost of the weights. It was about $2 dollars. Have to drive them there, but saves the hassle of buying and storing a seldom used tool and sourcing weights.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It seems that breaking the bead is the challenging part. I found it quick and simple to use a C-clamp. You need to be careful working around the rim, but it only takes a second to pop the bead and then you can thread the zip-ties in while the clamp takes a bit of the pressure off. YMMV. Much simpler than trying to balance 2x4's or run over it with your truck, etc.

Since the wheels are already off, the Harley dealer in my city will balance them for the cost of the weights. It was about $2 dollars. Have to drive them there, but saves the hassle of buying and storing a seldom used tool and sourcing weights.

I have a fairly large C clamp (cast iron, ?). It fit approx 7/8 over the rear tire but not close enough to the rim and would not work. Also, even if it pops one side, the other side may stay attached to the rim. I thought about making something similar to a large clamp, but it still doesn't address the other side sticking.

With this tool, I can just flip the wheel over and pop the bead. I plan on only using this tool for REPAIRING slight punctures (in my case, I pick up crap 3/1 in my REAR tire)(combo patch/plug). If buying new tires as the old ones are due, the shop charges about $12 to R&R and balance each wheel (off the bike)..

The weights I have, my local shop (the above), I only allow one mechanic to swap my tires (he knows how anal I am and I tip him well) gives me NEW strips of stick on weights... :thumbup:

I have to sandblast, some touch up welds and put some paint on it today. As for the wheel support, today or tomorrow..

 

[Nelly]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/577-change-tires-danny.html

Here is a great how to posted by one of our founder members,
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/577-change-tires-danny.html

Nelly:thumbup:

 

[SweaterDude]

You could use 2 x 4's and rig up a bead breaker if you wanted to avoid using a razor blade. Although you might still need some tire spoons to get the tire off of the rim.

Bead Breaker for Motorcycle Tires - webBikeWorld

Edit: Duhhh....you did that, sorry for my misreading. :tard:

i built a bead breaker out of metal tubes and some angle iron, if you dont make an adjustable one with dual cantelevers it is still really difficult to break a good bead.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, got the bead breaker done and also made up the WHEEL support.


I made it of 2x6's, tied together with deck screws, notched with a 12" x 12" center opening (large enough for the larger front rotor).


23" long on each 2x6, then notched 5.5" to fit together nice and tight. I also nailed on some super plush carpet so there won't be any scruffing of the wheel.



Some pic's:

 

[Motogiro]

Well, got the bead breaker done and also made up the WHEEL support.


I made it of 2x6's, tied together with deck screws, notched with a 12" x 12" center opening (large enough for the larger front rotor).


23" long on each 2x6, then notched 5.5" to fit together nice and tight. I also nailed on some super plush carpet so there won't be any scruffing of the wheel.



Some pic's:

Bad A$$ Scott! :rockon:

 

[motojoe122]

Well, no time today to make one. I think I might try the C-clamp or wood idea. Mainly due to not having access to a welder. I do have an idea for something to rest the rim on, a 5gal bucket with garden hose around the lip.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My neighbor borrowed my camera (I'll post pic's later) but I modded the tire holder slightly and added to that as well.

Some 3/8" plywood screwed underneath it for additional stability with a 5/8" hole dead center of the unit.

With my 20' boat trailer (large I beam construction and heavy), I drilled and tapped a 1/2", regular thread hole thru the top of the frame. Got some 1/2" x 12" "all thread", and made a .25" thick aluminum washer (with a .5" hole centered in it to match the ALL THREAD) about 3.5" diameter (with the soft side of industrial velcro attached to one side to match the outside of the wheel in the center).

Once the bead is broke, the threaded bar screws into the top of the trailer (with an additional nut underneath for added strenth).

The tire holder now slips OVER the ALL THREAD, as does the wheel. I also have some PVC spacers to slip over the all thread to center it with the wheel if necessary.

Slip the small aluminum plate (with the velcro downwards up against the wheel so as not to damage the wheel). Tighten down the plate (just snug) with another steel nut.

The wheel and tire and now approx 2' OFF THE GROUND at a much easier height to work at and MOST IMPORTANTLY, NOT going anywhere (NO wrestling on the ground, chasing the wheel around, stepping on the other with a foot, etc).

The only limitation is when leaning hard to remove or install the tire, is to put any serious force towards the trailer frame rail (its about 5" wide), not to the sides where there's really nothing on the far side to support it.

If you have something raised and solid, and attached this to it, it would certainly make the actual manhandling a bit easier, again so your not chasing the wheel tire around, it popping up, etc. Your just concentrating on that one spot of the tire. :thumbup:

 

[mpb218]

Just did this with my front tire, pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I've never done a tire change before (on the rim), usually I just took the wheel and new tire to the shop. +1 for this method!