jeanjesuit
New Member
As noted earlier, check free play once hooked up and BEFORE you replace the air-box- "Do-overs" suck...
I'm thinking I'll just snake the cable out without pulling the aribox. I'm feeling lazy today.
As noted earlier, check free play once hooked up and BEFORE you replace the air-box- "Do-overs" suck...
That'll work.. If that "cable holder" doesn't jamb you up.
If so, just cut that off and you'll have access to the cable adjuster on the left side of the bike.
I don't even know why I had put that thing back. After a good 10 minutes of struggle it's now out for good. The sleeve looks a tad longer on the new cable and after adjusting the central screw the core peaks out about the same on the old and new. What I don't get is the old cable had started to fray and the lever adjuster was at its further out position while the new one doesn't even fit. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
As for the rest of your issues, I suspect it's simply a cheap knock off part. There is NOTHING like OEM, no
guessing, no do-overs.
Short of accessing the cable, the adjustment can't be any easier. (Your NOT doing anything wrong)
If there's not enough adjustment, it's the "new" cable, it's not made to exact spec's...
And there's no movement whatsoever. I guess there's my problem?Simply remove the oil filler cap and pull the clutch lever in while looking in the hole.
You should see about 1/8" of movement of the pressure plate OUTWARD If you do, it's working fine.
The cable isn't connected as of now, but I assume pushing the slave lever should do the exact same thing as pulling the clutch lever in right?You SHOULD see the clutch plates moving when activating the clutch lever, period. Is the clutch arm moving?.
I did remove it when trying to troubleshoot. I put it back on and the alignment points line up at rest.I assume you did NOT remove the engine "end" lever at all CORRECT?
Thanks for the pic. It's fairly easy to push on and travels the full 13mm. The resistance seems to be coming only from the spring.Here is a pic I just shot of mine- The clutch is adjusted properly, the lever is at REST.
Are YOUR alignment points lined up?
(Again, this is at REST, clutch lever NOT pulled in-when pulling the clutch in, the cable movement @ the the engine is approx 1/2", 13mm's)
I did remove it when trying to troubleshoot. I put it back on and the alignment points line up at rest.
Thanks for the pic. It's fairly easy to push on and travels the full 13mm. The resistance seems to be coming only from the spring.
OK, you should NOT have removed that arm, NO reason to. That's your issue now.
The shaft that the arm attaches/slides down onto apparently moved and needs RE-CLOCKING. IE, the lever arm needs to be set a tooth (or several) further COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
Confirmed.That's all that's left.
Unless all of a sudden the under cover (don't know your year bike) clutch release bearing failed:
Part #7: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W CLUTCH Diagram
Please confirm that with light pressure on the lower clutch arm, "the alignment marks line up".
The shaft rotation is only about 60 degrees, which doesn't change with the lower arm position (by lower arm you mean the slave lever, whatever the cable attaches to right?). If so I'm sorry but I don't quite get itRe-clock that lower arm. It's out of sync with the shaft that goes into the engine..
It worked. Thank you so much, I'll be back to lane splitting to work tomorrow rather than sitting in traffic. On the rear stand the wheel is perfectly still with the lever pulled in and first gear engaged (note: that Bihr aftermarket cable works perfectly in the end).Pull the lever off the shaft. Turn the SHAFT CLOCKWISE till snug.
Now, set the arm back on (your working against the lower return spring) with the marks dead on or one notch MORE clockwise.