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Buzzing prominent on right side

Cra1g

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My 2007 FZ6 produces a decent amount of vibration/buzzing from idle to redline. It's not THAT bad and some ranges are worse than others, but the big thing is that the buzzing is more prominent in the right handgrip and right foot peg. What would make it buzz more on one side than the other?

I've changed all the fluids, new spark plugs (and checked the spark plug caps/wires), new air filter, replaced the chain and both sprockets, new tires, and double-checked the chain slack and alignment. Haven't done a throttle body sync yet, but not sure if that would even help my specific situation?
 
The sync would help, especially at 4K and below.. With the sync off, I definitly get more vibs at around 4k

I've found it best to sync at both idle and at 4K. I have mine within 2mm's, Yamaha allows for up to 10mm's.

Might want to check valve lash, engine mount torque on all engine mounts, also loosen and re-tighten all exhaust mounting bolts. You want to make sure the exhaust system is "relaxed" (not forced if you would).

BTW, I use Grip Puppies installed over the grips and had the seat re-done. Most of my previous vibs was thru the right side of the seat- so yours is not un-usual..


Sync after last valve adjustment:

 
The sync would help, especially at 4K and below.. With the sync off, I definitly get more vibs at around 4k

I've found it best to sync at both idle and at 4K. I have mine within 2mm's, Yamaha allows for up to 10mm's.

Might want to check valve lash, engine mount torque on all engine mounts, also loosen and re-tighten all exhaust mounting bolts. You want to make sure the exhaust system is "relaxed" (not forced if you would).

BTW, I use Grip Puppies installed over the grips and had the seat re-done. Most of my previous vibs was thru the right side of the seat- so yours is not un-usual..


Sync after last valve adjustment:

Good morning

@Cra1g

I'm in the same boat as cra1g. I've tried everything except throttle body synchronization. The loudest buzzing in the right grip and mirror occurs at 7000 rpm, both with the bike moving and stopped. I'm using Grip Puppies, which is the last thing I tried, and they help, but the micro-vibration is still there. I'm waiting for a Carbtune Pro 4. I don't know if this guy (cra1g) has had any luck...

Cheers and thanks
 
Another help in taming the buzz is heavy bar ends, which really help to dampen the vibrations in the handle bar. I use these https://www.hvmp.com/Yamaha-s/4.htm, but I am sure there are many others.
Hi, thanks for replying.

I'm not ruling out buying and replacing them, in addition to adjusting the throttle bodies. I'll consider buying them.

Thanks for the idea, mate. Cheers.
 
Might want to crack loose all engine mounts and re-torque. So the engine theoretically is in a relaxed state with the frame.

also loosen and re-tighten all exhaust mounting bolts. You want to make sure the exhaust system is "relaxed" (not forced if you would).

.
 
Quizás sea mejor aflojar todos los soportes del motor y reajustarlos. Así, teóricamente, el motor está en un estado relajado con el chasis.

También afloje y vuelva a apretar todos los pernos de montaje del escape. Asegúrese de que el sistema de escape esté relajado (no forzado, si lo desea).

.
I can assure you I've already tried everything.

- New drive kit: sprocket, chain, chainring...
- New tires
- Loosened and tightened all engine bolts in the order specified in the manual
- Loosened and tightened all exhaust bolts
- Oil change, filter, air filter, fuel additive, intake additive
- Replacement of coils, wires, spark plug caps...
- Replacement of spark plugs with new, genuine NGK plugs
- I've installed grip puppies...

All that's left is to adjust the throttle bodies with the Carbtune Pro 4 when it arrives from the UK.

The motorcycle vibrates most intensely while riding and at 7000 rpm when stationary.

Thanks for your reply, best regards.
 
Have you checked your cam chain tensioner ?
Completely checked, the chain, sprocket, and pinion are new, the chain is well lubricated, and the tension is within the manual.

But what I'm going to tell you now is very simple: the chain tension has nothing to do with it. With the bike stationary, you rev it in neutral, and the vibrations at 7000 rpm are still there, even without the wheels turning and the chain moving. So it's something coming from the engine.

Thanks for your reply, best regards.
 
Completely checked, the chain, sprocket, and pinion are new, the chain is well lubricated, and the tension is within the manual.

But what I'm going to tell you now is very simple: the chain tension has nothing to do with it. With the bike stationary, you rev it in neutral, and the vibrations at 7000 rpm are still there, even without the wheels turning and the chain moving. So it's something coming from the engine.

Thanks for your reply, best regards.
Yes,I understand.
I was referring to your engine's camshaft timing chain tensioner.
A small unit but very critical if it's clogged or worn and doesn't properly keep tension on the timing/cam chain.
 
Yes,I understand.
I was referring to your engine's camshaft timing chain tensioner.
A small unit but very critical if it's clogged or worn and doesn't properly keep tension on the timing/cam chain.
Okay, sorry, I thought you meant the wheel chain. You mean the internal engine chain? I haven't touched that tensioner because I'm not 100% sure how to do it. I can try it after adjusting the throttle bodies if the vibration problem persists.

The motorcycle has 37,000 km

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Okay, sorry, I thought you meant the wheel chain. You mean the internal engine chain? I haven't touched that tensioner because I'm not 100% sure how to do it. I can try it after adjusting the throttle bodies if the vibration problem persists.

The motorcycle has 37,000 km

Thanks for the suggestion.
The unit works hydraulicly,using oil pressure to feed it.
My bike has 18000miles,but the chain is making a bit of noise;I bought a new one and will be replacing it very soon.
 
The unit works hydraulicly, using oil pressure to feed it.
I don't believe this is correct, ^^

From way back 2013 on this forum:

On one of the FJR forums, a member grenaded his engine about 170 miles after doing a cam chain and tensioner change out. I suspect (and he posted) that he could go back and forth by one tooth (and likely assembled the bike with one tooth off).

The point, doing some research, I found that the cam chain tensioner, for the FZ (year 2007 and 2009) not only have different part #'s, but look differently in the parts fisch...?? News to me!

Reading the below post, (again this is from an FJR forum), shed some light into the workings of the Yamaha tensioner. Apparently there is no racheting safety inside, strictly spring pressure only. The updated FJR tensioners, besides have a stiffer spring also have a longer plunger so it can extend out further.

Here is the link for further reading:FJRF008: Cam Chain Tensioner Survey - Technical/Mechanical Problems - FJRForum

In a nut shell, quote:

There have been numerous posts and questions over the years of this forum’s existence concerning noisy cam chains, due to the OEM cam chain tensioner not being up to the task.

There have also been documented disastrous results from cam chain tensioner failures, resulting in destruction of the valve train and expensive follow-up repairs. Incidentally, all four documented cases of catastrophic cam chain tensioner failures involved 2004 model motors, however there easily might be other, forum-undocumented failures resulting in engine damage in other model years.

A cursory examination of past posts involving cam chain noise emanating from the right side of the motor indicates the original OEM cam chain tensioner (hereafter referred to as CCT) has a finite life, although Yamaha doesn’t suggest a maintenance or replacement schedule for the original part.

However, there seems to be an indication that Yamaha is aware of a problem, considering a recent design and part number change for the OEM unit with forum members who have replaced their OEM unit with the updated model indicating the new replacement part incorporates a longer shaft in the adjustment mechanism, providing more extension of the adjusting shaft at less spring deflection, effectively improving the capabilities of the design, and possibly providing a longer MTBF (mean time between failure) for the OEM replacement .

From my investigations, reported cam chain noise has come as early as 7,000 miles, or as late as over 110,000 miles, so there doesn’t seem to be a pattern for early failure in the OEM CCT. However, after reading many of the threads involving cam chain noise and CCT replacements, it could be deduced that many of the failure issues have immediately, or at a reasonably short time, followed a valve adjustment, where the CCT had been retracted for cam removal.



To my knowledge, there is NO updated (blue dot-as there is for the FJR) CCT for the FZ6. Life of the CCT (and your engine) is dependant on that spring inside the CCT. Should it break (unlikely) suddenly while running, your engine is likely toast. Most often, you start hear a rattling. Seems that replacement of the CCT, ASAP, would be warranted to prevent a catastrophe.

I posted this not to scare anyone but to make them more aware of the potential for a failure, especially the older the bikes, higher mileage, etc.

Please don't ignore any new noises, especially from the right side of the engine.

As a side note, the FJR cam shafts, cam chain, guides and tensioner set up is about identical to the FZ6. I suspect the chain is slightly longer being a taller engine due to the increased displacement (I've never measured one chain next to the other).

Ride safe...
 
I don't believe this is correct, ^^

From way back 2013 on this forum:

On one of the FJR forums, a member grenaded his engine about 170 miles after doing a cam chain and tensioner change out. I suspect (and he posted) that he could go back and forth by one tooth (and likely assembled the bike with one tooth off).

The point, doing some research, I found that the cam chain tensioner, for the FZ (year 2007 and 2009) not only have different part #'s, but look differently in the parts fisch...?? News to me!

Reading the below post, (again this is from an FJR forum), shed some light into the workings of the Yamaha tensioner. Apparently there is no racheting safety inside, strictly spring pressure only. The updated FJR tensioners, besides have a stiffer spring also have a longer plunger so it can extend out further.

Here is the link for further reading:FJRF008: Cam Chain Tensioner Survey - Technical/Mechanical Problems - FJRForum

In a nut shell, quote:

There have been numerous posts and questions over the years of this forum’s existence concerning noisy cam chains, due to the OEM cam chain tensioner not being up to the task.

There have also been documented disastrous results from cam chain tensioner failures, resulting in destruction of the valve train and expensive follow-up repairs. Incidentally, all four documented cases of catastrophic cam chain tensioner failures involved 2004 model motors, however there easily might be other, forum-undocumented failures resulting in engine damage in other model years.

A cursory examination of past posts involving cam chain noise emanating from the right side of the motor indicates the original OEM cam chain tensioner (hereafter referred to as CCT) has a finite life, although Yamaha doesn’t suggest a maintenance or replacement schedule for the original part.

However, there seems to be an indication that Yamaha is aware of a problem, considering a recent design and part number change for the OEM unit with forum members who have replaced their OEM unit with the updated model indicating the new replacement part incorporates a longer shaft in the adjustment mechanism, providing more extension of the adjusting shaft at less spring deflection, effectively improving the capabilities of the design, and possibly providing a longer MTBF (mean time between failure) for the OEM replacement .

From my investigations, reported cam chain noise has come as early as 7,000 miles, or as late as over 110,000 miles, so there doesn’t seem to be a pattern for early failure in the OEM CCT. However, after reading many of the threads involving cam chain noise and CCT replacements, it could be deduced that many of the failure issues have immediately, or at a reasonably short time, followed a valve adjustment, where the CCT had been retracted for cam removal.



To my knowledge, there is NO updated (blue dot-as there is for the FJR) CCT for the FZ6. Life of the CCT (and your engine) is dependant on that spring inside the CCT. Should it break (unlikely) suddenly while running, your engine is likely toast. Most often, you start hear a rattling. Seems that replacement of the CCT, ASAP, would be warranted to prevent a catastrophe.

I posted this not to scare anyone but to make them more aware of the potential for a failure, especially the older the bikes, higher mileage, etc.

Please don't ignore any new noises, especially from the right side of the engine.

As a side note, the FJR cam shafts, cam chain, guides and tensioner set up is about identical to the FZ6. I suspect the chain is slightly longer being a taller engine due to the increased displacement (I've never measured one chain next to the other).

Ride safe...
First of all, thank you for your input.

In this case, it's not a noise we're talking about, but a vibration/humming sound, more pronounced on the right side of the handlebars, in the throttle grip and right footpeg, which peaks at 7000 rpm.
I don't rule out the timing chain tensioner.

Before doing that, I want to adjust the throttle bodies to see if I'm lucky and it solves the problem as much as possible. I don't know if there's an improved replacement for the FZ6 timing chain tensioner, but I'd like to know if there is and what the price is.


Thanks again for your input, best regards.
 
If you look at the throttle bodies, there are 2 separate "2 barrel" TB's.

There IS a screw in-between them that's adjustable (not SUPPOSED TO BE ADJUSTED)
that if dinked with, literally throws the butterflys physically OFF at different angles (to each other).

So you can still sync as normal, BUT if that screw has been messed with (and could affect HIGH SPEED RUNNING).

Sooo, may want to pull the air filter (when getting ready to do the sync) and inspect.



BTW, Before I had my Carb mate, I allowed the shop (2004) to do a sync on my FJR.
I later bought Carb mate and re-checked my FJR. From the factory, Yamaha put a
spot paint on the screws NOT to be adjusted.

Sure enough, the tech ADJUSTED one 1/4 turn. NOOOOOO.
I re-set that and adjusted properly. I suspect he used that screw as it was MUCH
easier to access (the FJR has 3 of those butterfly adjuster screws)


.



..
 
I appreciate this information TownsendsFJR1300,as I recently purchased my new OEM tensioner assembly.
I want to be sure to carefully replace it:any tips?
 
And since we are talking about sync’ing and using a synchronometer, it is IMPORTANT that you confirm that all four instruments agree with each other by checking the readings on the same cylinder prior to using the sync. You need to confirm the accuracy of the instrument prior to use otherwise you could be chasing problems that you have created where the instrument is lying to you.
 
First of all, thank you for your input.

In this case, it's not a noise we're talking about, but a vibration/humming sound, more pronounced on the right side of the handlebars, in the throttle grip and right footpeg, which peaks at 7000 rpm.
I don't rule out the timing chain tensioner.

Before doing that, I want to adjust the throttle bodies to see if I'm lucky and it solves the problem as much as possible. I don't know if there's an improved replacement for the FZ6 timing chain tensioner, but I'd like to know if there is and what the price is.


Thanks again for your input, best regards.
I also want to know if there's an improved replacement for the FZ6 timing chain tensioner. 🤔
 

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I just received the one above,in post #18:hoping it's better than the original item.
Incredible, I don't know how you bought it so fast! When you make the change, if possible, please report it here to see if there are any improvements regarding the vibrations. I'm still waiting for the CarbtunenPro 4 to use it. Cheers and thanks.
 
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