Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!

DeepBarney

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If it's smelling rich, I suspect that (richness and unable to get a good sync) are indeed related..

Do any of your spark plugs look blacker/richer than the others?

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I haven't pulled any of them to check. They don't look like the easiest things to remove (granted I've had less space to work with before) and I'm reticent to try pulling 100k mile plug wires off of them.

What's the likelihood of an air leak on the bike side of things (re the bubbles I'm getting in my manometer)?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re the plug wires, the rubber (where it touches the valve cover) will want to stick, Gently rotate, maybe a lil spray lubricant to help break the seal should help.

When re-installing, DEFINITELY use dielectric grease where the boot meets the cover. It'll SNAP on (you'll feel & hear it) MUCH easier..

I have fairly big hands but was able to swap my plugs W/O removing anything but the boots.


Re the home made manometer,
I have no idea. I like making/designing things/tools but I don't mess around with a home made tool so critical to tuning an engine..

IMO, Get the Carbtune and be done with it.. The time wasted, no riding, no good results are not worth the headache.. It may even help you to find the issue with the engine itself..


.
 

DeepBarney

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Alright so I submerged the tubing in water and put a vacuum on them, held it for 30 seconds, no apparent water ingress. Pressurized it and held it for a minute, no bubbles or leaks.

What's the easiest way to get back to where those vacuum lines lead? Does the airbox need to come off or can I get away with pulling the battery and tray? I'm wondering if I might have a leak somewhere along the line for #3 or maybe #2.
 

DeepBarney

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I checked the lines and couldn't find any issues with them. Did reroute them so they're easier to access and remove the plugs then hook up the manometer. Swapped the motor oil for two stroke oil (more visible, and thicker). Doesn't seem that I can get this thing to balance no matter what I try. I can fully seat #4 and it still sucks #3 dry and draws #4 the full length of the hose. Double checked that the manometer tubing isn't leaking anywhere and again didn't find any leaks.

What else might cause these issues? Timing being off? Airbox not sealed to throttle body?
 

Ohendo

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Weird.
Maybe remove the airbox, and perform a good visual inspection of the throttle body seating surfaces, look for anything preventing a seal. Although I fail to see how a vacuum leak there would result in bubbling back at your manometer.

I read somewhere to spray the throttle body area (with airbox reinstalled, bike running) with carb cleaner or starter spray and see if the revs change at all; would indicate a vacuum leak at the throttle bodies. Hopefully someone else will chime in; out of my expertise really.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Weird.
Maybe remove the airbox, and perform a good visual inspection of the throttle body seating surfaces, look for anything preventing a seal. Although I fail to see how a vacuum leak there would result in bubbling back at your manometer.

I read somewhere to spray the throttle body area (with airbox reinstalled, bike running) with carb cleaner or starter spray and see if the revs change at all; would indicate a vacuum leak at the throttle bodies. Hopefully someone else will chime in; out of my expertise really.

+1 ^^, brake cleaner works as well
 

DeepBarney

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I've found axe body spray works well for checking vacuum leaks. About the only use I've found for it actually. Hadn't checked for leaks yet so I'll definitely do that.
 

DeepBarney

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I gather it's flammable?
Yes. Not near as strong as starting fluid or brake/carb clean, but it isn't hard on rubber/plastic. I'm still using the cans I they were giving out back when I was on college.

Took the airbox back off and inspected lines running from the TB to the adjuster thing. Double checked the rubber grommets on the airbox, which look fine. #4 clamp looked tweaked so I I straightened it out and swapped it with #1. Put it all back together, warmed the bike up, and like before #1 & 4 shot way up with #4 further ahead. Eventually #3 sucked dry and started letting air past into #4 at which point I shut it off as the fluid was racing towards the engine. Ugh.


Think I need to adjust #1?
 

DeepBarney

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Yes. Not near as strong as starting fluid or brake/carb clean, but it isn't hard on rubber/plastic.

Took the airbox back off and inspected lines running from the TB to the adjuster thing. Double checked the rubber grommets on the airbox, which look fine. #4 clamp looked tweaked so I I straightened it out and swapped it with #1. Put it all back together, warmed the bike up, and like before #1 & 4 shot way up with #4 further ahead. Eventually #3 sucked dry and started letting air past into #4 at which point I shut it off as the fluid was racing towards the engine. Ugh.


Think I need to adjust #1?
Certainly can't hurt....

Also, RECORD what it's set at now, (lightly seat it in, counting turns) BEFORE you adjust, just in case (and so if it's say 3 turns out you know that was as issue)..
I recorded all of them when I first started, so I'm good there. If recall it was around an 1.5 turns out.
 

DeepBarney

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Adjusting the number one screw down and then adjusting the others didn't change. I can't figure out what it is but something is going on with #3 & 4 throttle bodies. Because whichever hose is connected to 4 is the one that sucks fluid up until I kill the engine.
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

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What might be wrong that would warrant a new set of TB's. I was kind of wondering about their gaskets myself.
If we knew that (^^^), this thread wouldn't be so long...

TB's attach to the head without gaskets, rubber intake manifolds only..

As posted way earlier, I would try the sync with an actual tool MADE for this.
It IS possible the homemade manometer is NOT working correctly..

.
 
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