Best way to extend wires for rear turn signals?

[phario]

I'm a bit of an amateur when it comes to mechanical/electrical work, but anyways---have to learn sometime.

Some of you may know that installing the Givi PLX360 side cases requires the turn signals to be moved backwards, and this is a problem because the wiring needs to be elongated. Apparently, some people have managed to bypass that by drilling some holes in the fender, but unfortunately I can't find the pictures.

1. Thread showing some pictures of extensions
2. Post about drilling holes

I had a look back there, and I wasn't sure what was the best way to attempt to elongate the wires was. Here are two photos.

The second photo showing the inside of the bulb container is hard to see, but basically there's little chance you can cut the wires within the container. You have to cut the wire from outside the container. Outside the container, the wires (I think two of them) are within a black rubber tubing. I'm not sure what's the best way of proceeding.

Do I just snip the black tubing haphazardly from underneath the bike? Or should I try and unbolt more things and access the wiring from deeper. I've not 'opened' the bike past this, so I'm not sure where the wiring goes.

 

[FinalImpact]

I would try to leave the oem sheathing intack out by signal for moisture protection.

Determine the wire gauge size, buy some wire of high strand count (better quality) as it resists breaking from vibes, get some butt connectors and shrink tube. Cut extend as needed. Insert an ample length of shrink tube to cover splice area, crimp new wire to old, give it a quick pull test ( it should hold 5 to 10 lb load easily), cover with shrink tube and heat to shrink... on to next wire.

You'll need a lighter, crimping tool and wire stripper. I'd suggest an "Automatic wire stripper PAR-2383" these are blue and yellow, cost about $10 on Amazoo!

 

[phario]

I would try to leave the oem sheathing intack out by signal for moisture protection.

Determine the wire gauge size, buy some wire of high strand count (better quality) as it resists breaking from vibes, get some butt connectors and shrink tube. Cut extend as needed. Insert an ample length of shrink tube to cover splice area, crimp new wire to old, give it a quick pull test ( it should hold 5 to 10 lb load easily), cover with shrink tube and heat to shrink... on to next wire.

You'll need a lighter, crimping tool and wire stripper. I'd suggest an "Automatic wire stripper PAR-2383" these are blue and yellow, cost about $10 on Amazoo!

Thanks for the helpful tip. I did buy a soldering iron, 18 AWG wire, and a wire stripper for this project.

The problem was that I'm unsure of where to make the cut. I will have to have a look in the morning to see if the fender can be removed, but would this likely reveal more easily accessible wires from higher on the bike? As it stands, I would have to make a cut near the center of the first image I posted, and try and do the extension in those cramped corners.

 

[MattR302]

I'm pretty sure I didn't extend mine, just went outside to take some pics. I drilled two holes just underneath the reflector, above the license plate. (In the center I have another hole for a brake light mounted on my license plate. You'll have to unclip the connections, route them through the new holes and back to the left pod, but you won't need to extend any wires.

https://flic.kr/p/N2p6go
https://flic.kr/p/NcCtpD

 

[phario]

I'm pretty sure I didn't extend mine, just went outside to take some pics. I drilled two holes just underneath the reflector, above the license plate. (In the center I have another hole for a brake light mounted on my license plate. You'll have to unclip the connections, route them through the new holes and back to the left pod, but you won't need to extend any wires.

https://flic.kr/p/N2p6go
https://flic.kr/p/NcCtpD

Hi!

Thanks. Bit annoying is this means I need to go buy a darn drill

But those pics are really helpful. Thanks.

Edit: Oh, I forgot to ask: how do you unclip the connections from the signal housing? I had peered in the other day, but it looked like it was soldered directly to the housing.

 

[MattR302]

A drill would be cleanest, but you could also cut small holes with an exacto knife or similar. Or hold a nail with a pair of pliers, heat it up with a torch, and melt a hole through the plastic. Or just ride to a friend's house and borrow his drill for 30 seconds.

Underneath the left side panel under the seat, that's where the turn signal connectors are, I think one is black and one is gray. Unclip them there, remove the signals and wires entirely, mount the new brackets, install the signals onto the new brackets, then run the wires through your new holes up and back to that area where you unclipped them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your 99% close to just un-plugging the entire (as if to R&R) directional.

The actual connection to the main harness is under the left POD. Pop that loose and the entire unit is free..

Simply unplug it there, then look what you have and re-route best as possible.