Battery Tender Wires and Power Socket??

[Deleted member 2349]

OK so the plan is to use the Fused section of wires that come with the Battery Tender...This should cut down on fabrication time.

I want to add a 12v Power Socket And use the above wire to be my connection to the battery. Should just need to get (1) SEA Connector, (2) Female Blade connectors, a length of matching gauge power wire and some shrink tube and of course the Socket is in the Mail...

The fuse that's already there is only 7.5 Amps...

Can I use this or should I go to a 10 or 15 Amp fuse??

I plan on using this for Cell phone and GPS power.

 

[SovietRobot]

I have a fused SAE lead, and a cigarette socket with an SAE connector on it.
Both "powerlet" branded from easternbeaver.com

I've charged the battery with a battery tender, and charged a gps/cellphone with the cigarette socket adapter.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have a BMW style (Powerlet) outlet installed in both the FZ and my FJR. I put a 20 amp fuse in both, the FJR specifically for heated clothing and also to handle the load of an air compressor (should you get a flat out in the middle of nowhere). The socket and lines will easily handle a 10 or 15amp fuse.... I would crimp and soldier(sp)? all connections keeping the fuse near the battery.

 

[SovietRobot]

I have a BMW style (Powerlet) outlet installed in both the FZ and my FJR. I put a 20 amp fuse in both, the FJR specifically for heated clothing and also to handle the load of an air compressor (should you get a flat out in the middle of nowhere). The socket and lines will easily handle a 10 or 15amp fuse.... I would crimp and soldier(sp)? all connections keeping the fuse near the battery.

I did it for an air compressor too, but the compressor I have draws 100 watts, so it's only usable if you're running the bike.

 

[Deleted member 2349]

I have a BMW style (Powerlet) outlet installed in both the FZ and my FJR. I put a 20 amp fuse in both, the FJR specifically for heated clothing and also to handle the load of an air compressor (should you get a flat out in the middle of nowhere). The socket and lines will easily handle a 10 or 15amp fuse.... I would crimp and soldier(sp)? all connections keeping the fuse near the battery.

Thanks the wire harness that came with the battery tender has the inline fuse(7.5A) near the battery...I'll probably just drop a 10A in its place. The only soldering I should need to do is the SAE and Blade connectors(at wire point) that plug into the power socket. Unless I should solder those in place too where they meet the male points at back of socket?? I guess I should to save against bumps...thanks folks.

 

[FizzySix]

That is exactly what I want to do: I have battery tender jr. leads off the battery, and I'd like to power a socket with them.

Ultimately, rather going back and forth connecting the socket or tender, I'd like to find the opposite-ended connector for the end of the cable on the tender itself, and connect a male lighter-socket portion to the tender - that way I can just stick it in the socket (which sounds so rude ) and plug the tender in the wall and leave the cables under the fairing alone.

I was planning on just using the stock fuse. I'd be surprised if a cellphone or GPS draws anywhere close to that amount. I just looked at the wall-charger for my cellphone and it puts out less than 1 amp.

Posting up your chosen sources for parts (where do you get SAE connectors? auto parts store?), and pics of the final install would be much appreciated! :thumbup:

 

[alanrim]

You could try a little bit of lateral thinking.

Replace the plug on the battery tender (optimiser UK) with a cigarette lighter plug.

Fit the lighter socket to the bike, then accessories can be powered while riding and the bt/optimiser plugged in when parked up.

 

[FizzySix]

You could try a little bit of lateral thinking.

Replace the plug on the battery tender (optimiser UK) with a cigarette lighter plug.

Fit the lighter socket to the bike, then accessories can be powered while riding and the bt/optimiser plugged in when parked up.

If I'm reading that right, I think we're suggesting the same thing: connect the tender to the battery via the lighter socket by installing a male plug on the tender, rather than using the existing SAE connector.

You'd still need the connector in between the battery and socket so you can disconnect the two and remove/replace the fairing with the battery and tank in place.

 

[doc_simple]

I got the battery tender jr. that comes with 2 connections. The one that goes to the battery for the tender and a set of small jumpers with the same inline connector. I am thinking of cutting off the connector from the tender with about 3 feet of wire. Use the wire with round ends to screw on the to the battery terminal and the piece cut off from the tender leading up to the female outlet. Put the male on the tender and still have the connection point in the middle.
Whats the difference? Well, a couple days ago I was out and had not had the bike on the tender for a few days. Sitting in heavy traffic my lights on the heads-up started doing strange things so I pulled over and made the tragic mistake of shutting off my engine.

Bad choice, luckily a friend came out and gave my a jump. When he got there I realized that getting a jump on this bike is a serious P.I.T.A.
With the above described setup I could unhook the power outlet and hook up the little jumper cables. Probably not the best for regular use, but in emergencies it sure would be nice.

If you run extra lights, higher output bulbs, hand warmers or other power draining items a jump start may be in your future too.

 

[alanrim]

If I'm reading that right, I think we're suggesting the same thing: connect the tender to the battery via the lighter socket by installing a male plug on the tender, rather than using the existing SAE connector.

You'd still need the connector in between the battery and socket so you can disconnect the two and remove/replace the fairing with the battery and tank in place.

My Bad

Should have read more carefully.

Power wise a GPS or phone charger etc is only going to take 1A, I can't think of much that would take any more than 3A that you would seriously use on a bike.

 

[Oscar54]

The fuse that's already there is only 7.5 Amps...
Can I use this or should I go to a 10 or 15 Amp fuse??
I plan on using this for Cell phone and GPS power.

The 7.5 amp fuse should be adequate for the above mention loads. To double check, look at the fuse size in the cell phone charger and GPS power plugs. I would guess they are only 1 to 2 amps.

I hooked up the Schumacher Battery Tender to my battery and tie rapped it to the lower faring support on the right side. That way it is easy to connect if I need to charge the battery. The plug is also compatible with the Slime Inflator so I can use the same connection to fill the tires if I get a flat, and it fits under the seat with the tool kit and tire plugs. But I don't have the owners manual under the seat.

Peace.

 

[mkjeld76]

I have a fused SAE lead, and a cigarette socket with an SAE connector on it.
Both "powerlet" branded from easternbeaver.com

I've charged the battery with a battery tender, and charged a gps/cellphone with the cigarette socket adapter.

I second Easternbeaver.com, One stop for all your powerlet needs I'll be setting up all my accessory wiring this weekend :rockon:

 

[Deleted member 2349]

I looked at the powerlet stuff its nice, but too much money...I ordered a Seadog deluxe power socket(comes with a Male plug too) for under $15 shipped. Its made for boats so it has a rubber cap to keep water out. I believe another forum member used this as well.

So with the other few things I need from radio shack should be less than $5 bucks...especially if I decide to just cut the SAE connector and solder the wires directly. This would ensure that I had to cut the Tender wires to add the Male plug for charging too.

So this should fall into the $20 plus time/effort, mod price range.

And thanks for the comments on the Amperage for cell and gps units...maybe i'll just leave the 7.5A fuse in too...

 

[Deleted member 2349]

So I ran some errands today and after searching both Radio Shack and Pep Boys, I could not find a SAE connector nor could I find good quality wire wrapping(conduit). So I think I'm going to just cut the SAE off and splice; running from battery to socket. At least I won't have to spend anymore for the SAE by itself. And it shouldn't add that much time soldering the splice points...