Battery Problem?

MO_motovlog

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I have recently bought my bike from a local guy. The bike has ran and started fine for the last few weeks, but recently been having problems. Also, the bike has a brand new battery that was put in before purchasing.

I started my bike and rode it during the day, on my way home it started fine again and stopped to get gas and a drink. When i went to start the bike, the lights all lit up and when i hit the ignition switch the bike clicked and then all the dash lights when out and wouldn't start. The motor never tried to turn over just shut down the dash and all power completely. I got the bike home after a bumb start.

The next day it started fine again but after a short ride i went to start again and the same problem occurred. the dash went out and i had no power. Even turning the key off and back on i had no dash lights.

Please help if possible.
 

agf

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Sounds like you need longer rides and a battery tender to keep the battery charged up
The fz has a bit of a reputation for the not strongest charging system.
You need to keep the riding time at about 45 minutes and revs above 3 k for a consistent charge
If you use the bike as a commuter , regular hooking up to the tender will keep the batt. In good nick

If Cliff, Randy or Scott think i missed anything or have better advice, they will chime in- thats the great thing about this forum - folks love to share knowledge

Btw welcome to the forum!!!!


my iPhone post using Tapatalk - sorry for any shpillong mishtooks i has fat fingies
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks ^^^

I would fully charge (as noted above) with a tender (approx 1.25 amp automatic charger). Then get it load tested. Any auto parts shop, Walmart, etc will check it for free . (It should be disconnected from the bike)

If its new and passes, you likely have a charging issue.

A fully charged batery is 12.8 volts. Once running, checking battery voltage at idle (1300 RPM) will be around 13 volts. Up to 5,000 RPM's, should be close to 14 volts.

IMO, rule out the battery, then check the voltages. I suspect there's a charging issue..

BTW, any added on electrical mods? Heated grips, alarms, dual headlight mod, etc?
 
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52pickup

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I had this same problem with my bike this spring. In my case my bike acted exactly as you described...dash lights up...when I turned the key a kind of clicking sound...then dead. It never happened before so I was really scratching my head. I checked all the fuses to make sure nothing was blown.

The solution for me was this: the battery posts are connected to the battery using a very small nut that the screw needs to tighten into. The problem for my bike was this nut sits loose and you need to guide the screw through the connector plate (on the battery) into the nut. I know this sounds simple but you can't hold the nut in place very well, plus there is the angle you have to fight when installing, the gas tank gets in the way as well. If you don't have all these line up you get a bad connection. Once I got all these things lined up and tightened the bike fired up, first turn of the key.
 

52pickup

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I had this same problem with my bike this spring. In my case my bike acted exactly as you described...dash lights up...when I turned the key a kind of clicking sound...then dead. It never happened before so I was really scratching my head. I checked all the fuses to make sure nothing was blown.

The solution for me was this: the battery posts are connected to the battery using a very small nut that the screw needs to tighten into. The problem for my bike was this nut sits loose and you need to guide the screw through the connector plate (on the battery) into the nut. I know this sounds simple but you can't hold the nut in place very well, plus there is the angle you have to fight when installing, the gas tank gets in the way as well. If you don't have all these line up you can't catch the thread inside the nut - you get a bad connection. Once I got all these things lined up and tightened the bike fired up, first turn of the key.
 

Motogiro

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:welcome:to the family!

The battery what ever make, if healthy, is only good as the charging system that supports the bike. As previously mentioned just tooling around stop to stop can make for inefficient charging. The load testing will tell if the depth of charge is sufficient. After the load test is done whether it fails or not you still need to check the charging system to see that it is producing the needed current to keep the battery in a fully charged state.

Here is a link with thorough info for testing. http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579412&postcount=3

Let us know how this works out and we'll guide you with help on each step. :)
 
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