Battery/power issue?

Jacknife91

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So not too long ago my stock battery hit the dust. I bought a new one, installed it correctly and everything, but about a month down the road from installing it I noticed that when my bike idles, the display cluster, headlights, taillight and turn signals all pulse matching up with the idle. I don't think it would have anything to do with the wiring harness, but maybe a short somewhere. It also takes a little longer for the engine to turn over when starting it up.

Any clue to what's causing it, or if there could be something wrong? I'm currently running a Leo Vince slip-on, and it seems to idle slower than with stock exhaust.

Thanks, Josh
 

FinalImpact

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Idle if below 1000 RPM is pretty much running off the battery especially with accessories and dual lights. I'm not sure of your setup.

But i would bump the idle to 1250 - 1300 or so and it **may** smooth out the flickering dash and help keep the battery from loosing ground if your habits include lots of traffic stops.

As for the slow cranking, if your ride is composed of stop and go traffic and RPMs are at 1500 or so 30% time, if this is not offset by highway speeds w/>2600 RPM for 80% of the time the battery could be loosing ground and cause the slow cranking.

In short, lots of idle time and you're a candidate for weekly trickle charging.

With a hand held Volt meter we can help you gather information to tell us about the bike & battery health. Do you have access to one?
 

Jacknife91

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I don't have any accessories such as Juice Box, PC or anything. No dual headlight mod. I do have a MotoDynamics integrated taillight though. However, I was under the impression that LED's took less power than bulbs.

I do have a handheld volt meter, unfortunately I'm currently not home, so I can do that tomorrow after work. I'll let you know.
 

FinalImpact

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I don't have any accessories such as Juice Box, PC or anything. No dual headlight mod. I do have a MotoDynamics integrated taillight though. However, I was under the impression that LED's took less power than bulbs.

I do have a handheld volt meter, unfortunately I'm currently not home, so I can do that tomorrow after work. I'll let you know.

Here is some info to compare too.

From this thread: Troubleshooting & maintenance guide, Fuel Pump, Battery & Charging, Brake Bleeding + more!!


12 Volt Battery ~12.72V: << THAT IS THE BARE MINIMUM, Fully charged is closer to 12.95V!!
A fully charged 12 volt lead acid battery is ~12.72 volts! It needs at least 13++ Volts from the charging system to stay charged! Yamaha specified a "no-load output from the charging system of 14.1 - 14.9vdc. (( Each cell is ~2.12V X6 = 12.72 ))

HEALTHY BATTERY = something like this:
If you think your bike is having charging issues, get an inexpensive volt ohm meter. On a healthy system you should find something like this:

12.95V - Battery voltage, engine off for 30 minutes to 30 days
12.82V - 1300 RPM - fan off, may be higher with single headlight
14.30V - 2500 RPM - fan off, but less than 14.5V above 5000 RPM

Battery Voltage can be checked from the RR w/the seat off:
Shown is Cold start, @ 1500 RPM, 14.4vdc
 
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