Battery issue

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just an FYI.

Last week when starting my 2007, the dash board would go blank for a split second while cranking. It spun over quickly and always started.

I put a volt meter on an electrical outlet (wired to the battery) and it showed 12+ volts sitting. Once the starter button was pushed, voltage dropped to a low of 8 volts, sometimes 9 volts (and still started).

After installing a new, Yuasa, OEM battery, it solved the problem and kept the voltage up when cranking.

If your dash lights go out, especially with the load of cranking, get your battery load tested, it's probably on its way out...

 

[VEGASRIDER]

How ironic, I just replaced my battery about 30 minutes ago. I have been having battery issues, as it seems to drain while riding in traffic. Been bump starting it just about every other time.

I purchased a Cycle Gear Lifetime battery two years ago, I just bought the same battery yesterday. By installing the new batttery, this will allow me to take the battery that I just removed down to Cycle Gear for them to test it. If it turns out that the battery is at fault, I will get reimbursed for the new one.

My bike is my only ride, so I figured that this was the best way.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How ironic, I just replaced my battery about 30 minutes ago. I have been having battery issues, as it seems to drain while riding in traffic. Been bump starting it just about every other time.

I purchased a Cycle Gear Lifetime battery two years ago, I just bought the same battery yesterday. By installing the new batttery, this will allow me to take the battery that I just removed down to Cycle Gear for them to test it. If it turns out that the battery is at fault, I will get reimbursed for the new one.

My bike is my only ride, so I figured that this was the best way.

You could have lifted your tank right there at the store (if you don't have a cig or BMW style outlet) and load tested it right there.

If you have a volt meter, check the voltage at the outlet or battery and crank it while watching the meter. If the battery is fully charged and the voltage still drops way under 12 volts, its most likely the battery. You can also check the charging system (with the same volt meter) with varying RPM's. At lower RPMs your pretty much running off the battery. I believe after 4-5,000 RPM's your putting a good charge back in the battery.

The heat in LV (as is Florida) is hard on the battery too...

BTW, my FJR likes a new battery about every 3 years or so, and that's on an advanced BMW charger. I bought my 07 FZ6 used from my friend, they replaced the battery a week after the bike was bought new (my friend forgot the date) so its been 3-4 years... It does both some city driving and some much higher RPM runs as well... The BD43 mod doesn't help with the charging, nor does me having my idle set at 1000 RPM's(below the recommended #)...

 

[LERecords]

any info on how long it takes to change out a battery on the bike (from like start to finish).. my new one came in and im going to hopefully swap it later today.. although, i had a quick question (not to thread jack).. I put the battery on a my yuasa trickle charger to give it a good full charge.. It only trickle charged for like 2 hours before the charger said it was all set. this normal or no? oh and it was a parts unlimited battery.

 

[greg]

any info on how long it takes to change out a battery on the bike (from like start to finish).. my new one came in and im going to hopefully swap it later today.. although, i had a quick question (not to thread jack).. I put the battery on a my yuasa trickle charger to give it a good full charge.. It only trickle charged for like 2 hours before the charger said it was all set. this normal or no? oh and it was a parts unlimited battery.

batteries normally come charged, so your trickle charger probably doesn't need to do much to top it up

time taken to swap out: 10 mins max I'd say
unbolt the 2 screws, lift the tank up and prop it up, disconnect battery terminals (negative first?), unbolt battery cover, lift out battery and reverse the process

not sure if you faired guys need to take off any of the fairing

one very important thing to note is don't drop the screws or bolts around the battery compartment, you'll never find them again and have to drop by your local shop for a spare

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on the above post.

Most batteries come 80% charged dry. To get maximum life out of them, trickle charge the balance after their filled with acid.

I have both a "Battery Tender" and an advanced BMW charger. The BMW charger is good for Gel batteries, no maintaniance, etc.. They look exactly the same... I know as fact (from experiance), the battery tender will turn green MUCH FASTER than the BMW charger on the same battery...

I believe the BMW charger charges DEEPER than the the BT.

On my new Yuasa, the BMW charger went approx 11 hours before going green (1.25 amp charger). I'm sure the BT would have to green much faster...

On the Yuasa, it is also written on the side, (as I re-call) with a 1.25 amp charger, it takes anywhere from 5-10 hours before its fully charged and you put a load on it...

 

[ohgood]

+1 on the above post.

Most batteries come 80% charged dry. To get maximum life out of them, trickle charge the balance after their filled with acid.

I have both a "Battery Tender" and an advanced BMW charger. The BMW charger is good for Gel batteries, no maintaniance, etc.. They look exactly the same... I know as fact (from experiance), the battery tender will turn green MUCH FASTER than the BMW charger on the same battery...

I believe the BMW charger charges DEEPER than the the BT.

On my new Yuasa, the BMW charger went approx 11 hours before going green (1.25 amp charger). I'm sure the BT would have to green much faster...

On the Yuasa, it is also written on the side, (as I re-call) with a 1.25 amp charger, it takes anywhere from 5-10 hours before its fully charged and you put a load on it...

could you pull some more info (and a source) for the bmw charger ?

i've noticed my battery tender charges my drz's battery in 3-4 hours, then occasionally only 30 minutes. seems odd.

tahnks , good info !

 

[macem29]

batteries normally come charged, so your trickle charger probably doesn't need to do much to top it up

time taken to swap out: 10 mins max I'd say
unbolt the 2 screws, lift the tank up and prop it up, disconnect battery terminals (negative first?), unbolt battery cover, lift out battery and reverse the process

not sure if you faired guys need to take off any of the fairing

one very important thing to note is don't drop the screws or bolts around the battery compartment, you'll never find them again and have to drop by your local shop for a spare

yep, 10 minutes is about right, just did it last week, and there are 2 little
cheek pieces of the inner fairing that you can unscrew to make raising
the tank a little easier, but you can get the tank up with them on,
takes a little wiggling...negative off first, and connected last is best,
the terminals are close to the frame so if the neg is connected and you
accidentally ground the tool your using from pos to frame it's a bad
deal

 

[greg]

slight digression (what, on the internet?!) i thought negative off first is best, as nothing will happen if you connectthe negative and frame, and once that's removed then nothign bad can happen when you connect positive to frame (as the current can't go anywhere as the frame is no longer grounded to the battery)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

could you pull some more info (and a source) for the bmw charger ?

i've noticed my battery tender charges my drz's battery in 3-4 hours, then occasionally only 30 minutes. seems odd.

tahnks , good info !

My BMW (I have 3) charger looks a little different (the front sticker) than this (however there several years old) but should be the same. The price and spec's look the same as well:

BMW Battery Charger

 

[LERecords]

thanks for the tips guys.. it's getting done today.. now if only the rain would stop..

 

[macem29]

slight digression (what, on the internet?!) i thought negative off first is best, as nothing will happen if you connectthe negative and frame, and once that's removed then nothign bad can happen when you connect positive to frame (as the current can't go anywhere as the frame is no longer grounded to the battery)

woops, good digression...I definitely said it wrong, but meant what you said

earlier post is edited to correct this

 

[FinalImpact]

Tip: if you have a Multi meter with a Minimum/Maximum function you can turn it one before starting the bike. This handy feature will record the lowest and highest readings observed which will momentarily be a more extreme value than seen on the meters display. This can be very helpful in seeing what the system does that is only visible for split second.

If you're in the market for a new hand held meter, grab one with this option. Its worth every penny spent! I have Fluke 87 V. It measures current, voltage, temperature, ohms, AC/DC, min and max as well as average, and it measures frequency too.



Tags:
Meter, FLUKE, DMM, Digital Multimeter, volts, current, amp amp-hour, resistance,