Aftermarket brake line selection

elus1ve

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Nice! Hope your cable comes with a rubber stopper in the middle like mine did. It fits perfectly through the pass through on the top of the fender.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Nice! Hope your cable comes with a rubber stopper in the middle like mine did. It fits perfectly through the pass through on the top of the fender.

I don't think it does but there's a retainer in the top of the fender. I have all the old stuff, retainers, etc to swap over. With it being custom made to exactly 19" (like the stock line), there shouldn't be any extra line I have to screw with and should fit dead nuts on..

ALSO, looking at the S1 and S2 parts fisch, they changed the front brake line set up!! The S2 stock is over the fender, the S1 has a junction block up by the lower triple clamp!

With the new set up (for me), I'll set the lines back up exactly how the factory had it. I'll have a spare LONG line too ...

The old (current) set up (yuk):

View attachment 67063

Soon to be, ONE line going up behind the left side tube, (just like stock)
 
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zixaq

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S1 is also over the fender, unless someone had fitted S2 brakes on my bike. Junction box was near one of the front calipers.
 

FinalImpact

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Brake Bleeders final tip:
Once you have firm lever/pedal, the final trick to getting the last of the air out is to build pressure in the system and tap the caliper in an vertical fashion to dislodge trapped bubbles and then crack the bleeder to set them free.

Use wood block or plastic mallet so you don't mar the caliper.
Tap up or down but not sideways/direction of piston travel.
Do not release lever until bleeder is sealed!!!

Complete instructions are here:
BRAKE BLEEDING, CALIPER AND PAD INSPECTION

The reward is an air free system. Works on your cage too!
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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zixaq

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Here's an 07 model:
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W FRONT MASTER CYLINDER Diagram

Here's an 06 model:
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V FRONT MASTER CYLINDER Diagram

Very, very different set up with the 06 model having a junction block near the lower triple.

There is none for the 07. The lines join on the left caliper..

Okay. The Junction block actually bolts on all the way down by the caliper, and the line to the other side still loops over the fender. Definitely a different set of lines though.

I just did two lines straight down from the MC.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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At the time I installed my separate HEL lines, I don't believe they had the over the fender one line set up (like OEM).

I'd prefer the OEM layout if I had to do it again, I agree, it looks much neater. A little harder to bleed than two lines but
how often do you empty the entire hydraulic system?

8-16-16 Update.

My new HEL over the fender (custom length, 19") came in yesterday. Cranked up the A/C in
the garage so no sweating and less moisture to enter the system..

Bungeed the brake lever to the grip to prevent it from bleeding out fully (first time and works great!)

The "over the fender line" had the proper angles where it tilts in slightly at the brake caliper.
I used ALL the stock mounting points/rubbers, etc and looks stock but nice and shiny!

Picked the best length line (of my two long HEL lines-separate racing lines).

All went together W/O issue. I did bleed mostly with the Mighty Vac and did pull the RS caliper
for several draws just to make sure.

A test ride with the lazer temp gun insured both discs heating up the same with slow and hard stops(ie, no air).

As an side note for anyone not familiar with a dry re-bleed. Bungee your brake lever pulled tight overnight
to allow any air bubbles to escape. That alone, eliminated easily 1/3 of the pull distance. Solid hard now!
 

elus1ve

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Nice! Mini braided line cleanup done!

So no perceived difference between two lines from the MC compared to the over the fender setup?
 

FinalImpact

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Just for clarification; pulling the lever blocks the path from the line set to the MC reservoir and builds line pressure. At this point - fluid under pressure can condense into larger bubbles and migrate up the line and wait for an exit into the reservoir when the lever returns to rest.

It is why I suggest you tap the calipers to dislodge trapped air and get it out of the system during the bleeding process.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Nice! Mini braided line cleanup done!

So no perceived difference between two lines from the MC compared to the over the fender setup?

No difference at all, just WAY BETTER LOOKING and doesn't appear aftermarket anymore...(That was about the only thing, appearance wise, I hated)

The last two pic's, one is the original TWO lines going up, the other is the new single line set up..

Double click to enlarge...

And yes Randy, I tapped, moved about, got level, etc the RS caliper when bleeding as I didn't want any "do overs".





 
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pauloissler

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Thanks for the pictures! Nice job.
I have a 2008 FZ6 with FZ1 handlebars. It looks like you have this mod too. I just bought HEL brake lines. Should have them at my mailbox next week. Your last picture shows the line passing around the fairing support. I am wondering what happen when you turn the handlebar all the way to the right. Does it pinch/stress/press the line? I was planning to install mine making a tight curve to the right and use a zip tie to hold it against the right hand side of the fork -- the same way I have it now with the stock line, and the way it was with the original FZ6 stock handlebar. Please let us know the reasons for choosing setting the brake line as in the last pic.
Cheers.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks for the pictures! Nice job.
I have a 2008 FZ6 with FZ1 handlebars. It looks like you have this mod too. I just bought HEL brake lines. Should have them at my mailbox next week. Your last picture shows the line passing around the fairing support. I am wondering what happen when you turn the handlebar all the way to the right. Does it pinch/stress/press the line? I was planning to install mine making a tight curve to the right and use a zip tie to hold it against the right hand side of the fork -- the same way I have it now with the stock line, and the way it was with the original FZ6 stock handlebar. Please let us know the reasons for choosing setting the brake line as in the last pic.
Cheers.

Look closer, I have the stock bars with RISERS/SET BACKS. So it's not going to be close to yours.

To add, I initially (years ago) ordered TWO, separate racing lines, (no over the fender line) which goes from the master to each brake caliper.

I didn't like how it looked and wanted the same set up as stock, with the line over the fender. I ordered a SEPARATE line just for that,
I then played with the two other lines(running them down the left) like stock till I found which worked best for my set up(they were slightly different lengths).

Pictured above was the end result (as the bike is right now, looks cleaner than the dual set up IMO).

I did make my own "guide" attached to the lower triple (where the horn used to be) so it keeps very much in one area as the line moves..
 
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pauloissler

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Got it!
Actually, I should mention that before I ordering my HEL lines, I looked at all posts in this thread, and your experience with 2 separate lines, to decide having my lines over the fender as in your final setting.
Because I do not have risers, my handle bars are lower and I suspect I might be able to run the long MC-to-caliper line in the same way as yours.
I am curious about the details on "your own guide attached to the lower triple" . It would be great to have see some pictures on how you did it. I am wondering if keeping the horn would be an issue.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Got it!
Actually, I should mention that before I ordering my HEL lines, I looked at all posts in this thread, and your experience with 2 separate lines, to decide having my lines over the fender as in your final setting.
Because I do not have risers, my handle bars are lower and I suspect I might be able to run the long MC-to-caliper line in the same way as yours.
I am curious about the details on "your own guide attached to the lower triple" . It would be great to have see some pictures on how you did it. I am wondering if keeping the horn would be an issue.

I have a Steble horn tucked inside the fairing. I basically used one of those mounting holes.

I made up, out of round steel rod, then slipped rubber hose over it (for protection to the cable). A bunch of tweeking
and here is what I ended up with. Picture is from the floor looking upward. You could still do the same using the same hole, just get a longer bolt.

You can practice with a steel coat hanger.
But a decent vise, clamping a socket in the vise, clamp the rod to the socket, then bang away and get a nice perfect circle..




Yuck at all the surface rust under there :( Would you believe its this bike:
You can see the TWO, (not over the fender) separate brake lines here as well...(no where near as neat IMO...
 
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pauloissler

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Thanks for the pictures. It made it all clear. The end result looks very neat too.
BTY, my bike has as much rust at that place as yours -- maybe even more :). I have it since new and I had to park it uncovered for many years.
The longer bolt is certainly a good solution. Because of my lower handlebars I might have more length to play with. One thing I will try is to attach it to the left side of the triple tree.
Once my brake lines arrive I will see how it goes.
 
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