Rubber brake lines need replacing?

[carbonar1]

Agreed with all who have suggested replacing your fluid. With 27k on the bike, the fluid needs to be replaced. I think a lot of folks who have attributed the new brake lines as solving the problem are forgetting that.... if you upgraded your lines you obviously replaced your fluid too

Upgrading your lines is also a good idea as the stainless will not tear and is much less likely to burst. Definitely worth the $$. Just remember that you will eventually get a mushy lever, even with stainless lines, if you don't flush your brake fluid regularly.

I replaced my fluid about a month before I replaced the brake lines. The lines really did make a big difference. $90 well spent in my opinion. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with all who have suggested replacing your fluid. With 27k on the bike, the fluid needs to be replaced. I think a lot of folks who have attributed the new brake lines as solving the problem are forgetting that.... if you upgraded your lines you obviously replaced your fluid too

Upgrading your lines is also a good idea as the stainless will not tear and is much less likely to burst. Definitely worth the $$. Just remember that you will eventually get a mushy lever, even with stainless lines, if you don't flush your brake fluid regularly.

When I cleaned / greased my front brake calipers (4 pots) I still had the rubber lines. Obviously I replaced all the fluid. The performance was the same with the old rubber lines, just the brakes didn't drag as much.

Eventually, after re-building the calipers with new seals and later replacing the rubber with SS lines, the SS makes a world of difference.

Water in the system, however, in hard riding conditions, can potentially boil at the calipers(turn to air bubbles) and cause cause spongeness, (besides un-needed corrosion).

 

[darius]

Just did my front brakes only. Old stuff was yellow and the new was clear.

Unfortunately I reused old tubing that was cloudy making it impossible to see when the old fluid had cleared so I ended up going through the whole small bottle.

Lever feels a heck of a lot firmer. I can still pull it to the grip but it's quite a workout at 5-6 settings (2wheels levers.) No test ride yet.

I wonder if SS lines would take out the mush that I still feel at the lever. I assume that's the rubber hoses expanding.

Test ride fail. My brakes are definitely better but still feel really weak compared to the pressure I have to apply. Must have air somewhere. I bet it's in the bend over the fender between the calipers.

I'm trying the zip tie trick overnight before I start over again.

 

[Ssky0078]

I would go SS lines. I have Hel lines and they look great. I can often just 1 finger stop and a hard emergency stop is only 2 fingers. Great money spent between that and stomp grip tank covers help with the sliding forward in the seat from the firmer braking

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Test ride fail. My brakes are definitely better but still feel really weak compared to the pressure I have to apply. Must have air somewhere. I bet it's in the bend over the fender between the calipers.

I'm trying the zip tie trick overnight before I start over again.

For the caliper with the over the fender line bleeding, a suggestion:

You may need a helper.

Unbolt the caliper from the fork (DO NOT UN-BOLT THE LINE FROM THE CALIPER).
Hold the now, un-bolted caliper out to the side so the line is now pretty straight, slightly at an upwards angle. This is so ANY AIR IN THE LOOP will now be pushed out when bleeding.

I personallay use a MITYVAC but normal bleeding should work. As you noted, holding the lever pulled towards the bar does indeed help (overnight), just try to get the MC high by turning the bars to the left.

**You also NEED to place a block of wood (or something) inbetween the pistons (so they don't pop out) as thier not around the disc at this point.

Good luck and please post your results..


Should you replace with SS lines, two separate, direct lines makes the above procedure obsolete and un-necessary.

 

[darius]

For the caliper with the over the fender line bleeding, a suggestion:

You may need a helper.

Unbolt the caliper from the fork (DO NOT UN-BOLT THE LINE FROM THE CALIPER).
Hold the now, un-bolted caliper out to the side so the line is now pretty straight, slightly at an upwards angle. This is so ANY AIR IN THE LOOP will now be pushed out when bleeding.

I personallay use a MITYVAC but normal bleeding should work. As you noted, holding the lever pulled towards the bar does indeed help (overnight), just try to get the MC high by turning the bars to the left.

**You also NEED to place a block of wood (or something) inbetween the pistons (so they don't pop out) as thier not around the disc at this point.

Good luck and please post your results..


Should you replace with SS lines, two separate, direct lines makes the above procedure obsolete and un-necessary.

Checked the bike this morning, cutting off the zip ties.

Brake lever is a heck of a lot firmer now. With one hand I can no longer pull the lever to the grip in settings 4-6 and 1-3 is not easy.

There's just a tiny bit of mush in the initial travel before it bites.


Thanks for the great tips, Townsend. I'll follow your advice next if the brakes still don't feel 100% on my test ride.

 

[outasight20]

Well the last time the fluid was changed per my service log was one year/12K miles ago. I will be changing it today and will update this thread with my results.

 

[Ssky0078]

I'm with this guy. Your lines aren't likely to fail anytime in the near future, unless they're already rotting out or damaged by something.

But, I literally just installed a set of braided lines on mine before heading home from work. I'm freakin' floored by the difference, it's insane how firm the lever is now.

It's possible you've got a bubble in there somewhere, but it's equally possible you don't. There's a ton of give in those lines, I could do the same thing with mine before if I had the lever that close. Even if the lines aren't going to fail, if you've got it in your head you want to replace them, and they're not performing how you like, you've got nothing (except $1-200) to lose upgrading. :BLAA:

Before I went to upgrade I could squeeze the lever to the bar almost in a really hard braking. After the SS upgrade half way down at best. I rode the snake today and definitely loved my brakes

 

[outasight20]

So I replaced the brake fluid today. The old stuff was light yellow/amber in color. No air in the lines per my silicone hoses. The feel is marginally better. Not a big difference. But I decided I am happy with the braking performance as it is and will skip on the SS lines for now. I need my money for other things.

 

[darius]

Checked the bike this morning, cutting off the zip ties.

Brake lever is a heck of a lot firmer now. With one hand I can no longer pull the lever to the grip in settings 4-6 and 1-3 is not easy.

There's just a tiny bit of mush in the initial travel before it bites.


Thanks for the great tips, Townsend. I'll follow your advice next if the brakes still don't feel 100% on my test ride.

In riding this week I still wasn't happy with the braking performance. Too much squeeze for too little bite.

The stock rubber lines are 7 years old and I don't think there's any more air in them so I've ordered up a set of Hel SS lines.

At the same time I'll take out the pads and rough them up a bit with sandpaper.

 

[Gelvatron]

I'd use 'Water Heater' philosophy on this.... you can either replace them before they fail or after..

I have an 05 and while I think the 4-year expected life from rubber brake lines is largely driven by the legal department (and perhaps a little input from the parts group), I just replaced my perfectly good rubber lines with Galfer SS and I am happy I did. Replace yours and you can focus on more important things in life.

...now, about that 2-year caliper rebuild interval...

word for word

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

In riding this week I still wasn't happy with the braking performance. Too much squeeze for too little bite.

The stock rubber lines are 7 years old and I don't think there's any more air in them so I've ordered up a set of Hel SS lines.

At the same time I'll take out the pads and rough them up a bit with sandpaper.

Quick tip, if you have a concrete sidewalk or driveway thats smooth, just scruff the pads on that surface. it should be pretty flat and will get rid of any glazing, likely flatter than sandpaper (cheaper too!)