After warm up idle revs start jumping up on FZ6 S2

[Dewill13]

Hi. I have a problem with my Fazer 600 S2 SA.
After warm up to 86 C the idle revs start jumping up (NOT DOWN) about 150 RPM.
If I give high revs I observe the same unstable jumping up about 150 RPM even on 6000.
Video: https://youtu.be/ZUGRw3ivPrA
This may, or may not be connected with me removing the airbox to change the clutch cable and adding some anti-freeze recently.

TPS is working fine. Idle regulator screw is ok too.
Where should I look next!?
Thx!

 

[raja777m]

Hi. I have a problem with my Fazer 600 S2 SA.
After warm up to 86 C the idle revs start jumping up (NOT DOWN) about 150 RPM.
If I give high revs I observe the same unstable jumping up about 150 RPM even on 6000.
Video: https://youtu.be/ZUGRw3ivPrA
This may, or may not be connected with me removing the airbox to change the clutch cable and adding some anti-freeze recently.

TPS is working fine. Idle regulator screw is ok too.
Where should I look next!?
Thx!

Funny, I'm facing the same issue, 2008, S2, oil change dues at 8000Miles (still 800 to go), I didn't do any other things you've mentioned.
and other funny thing is, I don't face this issue in the morning, but after i come to work, which sits for 9 hrs, it happens in the evening.
I live in Charlotte, N.C.

 

[Dewill13]

Funny, is that I have a LED lighting installed too on my bike, that i somehow broke while changing the clutch cable.

 

[raja777m]

Funny, is that I have a LED lighting installed too on my bike, that i somehow broke while changing the clutch cable.

What year bike is yours? And are you referring to the pics from my blog? TamedBeast
Had them for a month and a half now, and I love them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi. I have a problem with my Fazer 600 S2 SA.
After warm up to 86 C the idle revs start jumping up (NOT DOWN) about 150 RPM.
If I give high revs I observe the same unstable jumping up about 150 RPM even on 6000.
Video: https://youtu.be/ZUGRw3ivPrA
This may, or may not be connected with me removing the airbox to change the clutch cable and adding some anti-freeze recently.

TPS is working fine. Idle regulator screw is ok too.
Where should I look next!?
Thx!

First off, where was that recorded, the engine sounds terrible?? Maybe inside a closed garage or something?


More importantly, did this problem start RIGHT AFTER the clutch cable and air box removal??

If so, you need to go back and retrace your steps, what you pulled off/replaced, loose cables/hoses, etc. Make sure all screws are secure.

 

[SandyN]

My immediate response would be that you have misaligned the notches on the airbox clamps and the lugs on the airbox boots thereby deforming the rubber allowing the bike to run lean. You may have moved the clamps to access the clamp bolts easier.

Do the revs pick up a little as you close the throttle? If so, I will bet this is the problem.

Sent from my GT-I8190 using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

I have to say the sound of your motor is as if it were firing on 2 cylinders and every once in a while it intermittently fires on an additional cylinder. I don't think you're running on 4 cylinders!

 

[FinalImpact]

I have to say the sound of your motor is as if it were firing on 2 cylinders and every once in a while it intermittently fires on an additional cylinder. I don't think you're running on 4 cylinders!

There is such huge variation from recording devices and what they do with pressure waves. But dang, it don't sound right....
Sounds like I2.5 vs I4.... If it were down 1or more cylinders, it wont idle that high so it must be us! lol

OP can you make another video and walk around and walk away from the bike. Take it out in the open.

And more detail about what it does while riding would be good to know also!

 

[Dewill13]

Ok, I re did all the air box thing and I can clearly say nothing is wrong or could be wrong there.
Changed the antifreeze, but the problem still presist.
The previous vid was made in garage, now did it in open space.
Video: https://youtu.be/x4iP1ZmzON0
****, I can now hear that you talking about - sounds like a V-Twin.
But all 4 exaust pipes are hot.

And more detail about what it does while riding would be good to know also!

I didn't ride it too much, but all I notice is this jumping rpms below 4k. Really can't tell more.

My immediate response would be that you have misaligned the notches on the airbox clamps and the lugs on the airbox boots thereby deforming the rubber allowing the bike to run lean.
Do the revs pick up a little as you close the throttle? If so, I will bet this is the problem.

The problem is on idle rpms with closed trottle. But I checked everything any way - all airbox clamps seems pretty fine.

I'm all out of ideas now. Sparks and spark caps?

 

[SandyN]

Mine recently sounded as of it were running on 3 cylinders at idle and was making noises as of the cam shaft tensioner had packed up. I did a throttle body sync with proper vacuum guages from idle to 4000 rpm. Motor sounds and runs much better.

Sent from my GT-I8190 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

***I don't think you ever answered this, Did this ISSUE START right after the work that was done on the bike? This is IMPORTANT for us to know****...


The audio is still pretty bad. Can you borrow someone else's camera and post? Please walk around the bike with the camera and do a couple of rev's too(maybe to 4k (we're looking to hear any obvious mis-fires).

FI was asking how the bike ran compared to before the break down. Is the power down from before?

Couple things, can you pull the spark plugs and inspect for anything unusual? Don't just replace(a good idea as well), but inspect, they may tell us something. BTW, you can pull and replace them from the right side of the bike. Loosening the radiator helps some. I was able to do my 07 this way (with fairly large hands)

Can you borrow a lazer temp gun and measure the header temps, where it comes off the head. One much lower would indicate a problem, two lower would point to probably a coil going south.

 

[FinalImpact]

Ok, I re did all the air box thing and I can clearly say nothing is wrong or could be wrong there.
Changed the antifreeze, but the problem still presist.
The previous vid was made in garage, now did it in open space.
Video: FZ6 Idle Issue Youtube
****, I can now hear that you talking about - sounds like a V-Twin.
But all 4 exhaust pipes are hot.


I didn't ride it too much, but all I notice is this jumping rpms below 4k. Really can't tell more.


The problem is on idle rpms with closed trottle. But I checked everything any way - all airbox clamps seems pretty fine.

I'm all out of ideas now. Sparks and spark caps?

^^ in the vid, did you touch the throttle or is that it doing its own thing?

How fresh is the fuel? A bit of moisture in there could cause that.

As for the ignition, it would likely have other driveability complaints if the ignition had a fault. However, a simple combination of less than favorable fuel quality (Clean dry fuel) can make it run bad. Not all FUELS burn as well as others. Run a tank of higher octane fuel through it (from a different source even) with fuel system cleaner of the correct dose for tank size.

If the plugs are more than 10,000 miles or just aged, you might opt to replace them. Do not exceed the Bikes Recommended plug gap it makes it hard to light bad fuel.

 

[Dewill13]

^^ in the vid, did you touch the throttle or is that it doing its own thing?

How fresh is the fuel? A bit of moisture in there could cause that.
.

Never touched the trottle of course.
Added a new fuel after the service part, so it' is fresh.

***I don't think you ever answered this, Did this ISSUE START right after the work that was done on the bike? This is IMPORTANT for us to know****...
FI was asking how the bike ran compared to before the break down. Is the power down from before?

It started the next day in the midle of the route (mabe after warmup). I didn't rode it the day I did service.
I ran this bike for 28 km, with top speed 80 km/h this season. I really can't tell is the power down from before or not.
I could ride the horse instead and barely notice the change =)

SO. I changed the spark plugs. The used ones seems ok.
View attachment 65000
The second and third ignition wires were missmatched, but seems that doesn't matter.
I dissasembled and cleand spark caps (they seemed pretty fine except the connecting plug locks), and reconnected the spark cap #1 to the ignition wire.Because when I tested ignition through the Diag Mode at first I couldn't see spark on 1 cyllinder.
The idle revs are more stable now and i think the problem is gone: YouTube
Old one to compare: https://youtu.be/M0ejP4nO7DU
Is it running on 4 cyls now?
But I still have some questions:
The spark plug cap #3 on this picture is not properly connected? The plastic border on the spark cap should be hidden under the top cover, isn't it?

Are there some spare spark plug caps, not from Yamaha?
I woukld really like to switch to spark plugs with terminal nuts, instead of terminal thread.
I messed up plug locks, so they became pretty loose, can I get this plug locks without the whole OEM cap assembly? Maybe take from some simmiliar NGK caps?

Thx!

 

[FinalImpact]

The cap is not seated on that plug. Pull it up, move the boot, seat the cap to the plug (it should make a loud click click click sound) and then seat the boot by pushing it onto the cover.

The click sound in the audio may be the arc of the cap jumping spark to the plug. Under load it likely misfires...

Push all caps down firmly. They should click repeatedly and all be at the same height.
It also appears one of the wire boots is not down all the way either.

PS i use a screwdriver to seat the cap boot. Just push next to the cap and it will comply.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to add, put a little bit of dilectric grease on the rubber part of the cap where it meets the valve cover.

It'll be much easier to go on and you'll definitly hear the click on without that resistance.



Randy, on the #3 cap, blow up the picture. Does it appear to have some cracks on it, somewhat horizontal?

It doesn't appear to be casting and it jumps up(if you would) then back down.. Basically an upside down "U"

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks like surface scratches. But I see now the upper boot is split on the high tension lead on #4. Likely won't hurt it right now but may allow the wire to move and cause a harmonic vibe and/or issues if wet.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Something easy for the op to check.

Once it gets good and dark, start the bike and look around the spark plug caps for any arcing/shorting etc. A rev or two(doesn't have to be above 4K)

Also try (with insulated gloves) pushing down on the caps while its running and see if there's any difference in how the engine runs...