Adjustable Shifter

[ACME_Rocket]

I have been searching for days with no luck so need some input
I found a few posts on different foot positions however no definite answer if anybody is making a part that will fit my needs
I like the position of my footpegs however I have small feet and have problem reaching the shifter
I have to move my foot so far forward on the peg to shift I feel too uncomfortable to maintaining this position even during steady acceleration continues up shifting
I am looking for a shorter shift lever without having to change my rearsets
Any ideas

 

[darius]

Welcome to the forum. A quick intro would be great and maybe a pic of your ride. How long have you been riding?

Are you sure you need to modify the bike? The shift lever angle is adjustable.

Try squeezing the tank gently a bit with your knees and perhaps have a bit more weight on the right peg during shifts. The bike won't get upset unless you put weight on the bars. As you ride more your muscles will adjust.

Wearing proper riding boots might help if you're not already geared up.

 

[ACME_Rocket]

I have been riding for a year
I put on more than 4,000mi. last year and got really comfortable with the bike in many riding positions and types of riding
I have been riding mountain bikes for many years and am most comfortable with weigh on my feet
I have also rode four-wheelers and snowmobiles as long as I can remember on these the controls can be worked easier with more concentration on best performance body position
I have a 07 fz6 that was stock except for some decals the previous owner put on
I am now looking to make it my own now that I understand more about riding
I check to ensured the shifter was adjusted to owner’s manual specs and ankle bend is just about right however with my boot heal tight agents the back of the peg were I feel best for aggressive riding the tip of my toe just scrapes the shifter
I wear a pair of hiking boots because I want as much comfort off the bike as on and would like to adjust the bike to my comfort zone

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the part of the shifter is literally too far forward, a simple fix would be to measure where (farther back on the shifter lever) would be good for you. Once located, remove the shifter lever.

IMO, I would cut off, with a sawzall (steel blade), the part (with the rubber cushion) off right at the weld. Shorten the lever, again with the sawzall, and get the cut off part re-welded on. Grind the cut end nice and round (clean it up) and repaint. That lever is extremly sturdy and can be put in a vise and bent out if necessary.

The shifter travel will be slightly shorter so I wouldn't take off more than you need to.

You could also go to the local Yamaha dealer and look at bikes on the floor for a similar shifter arm that's a tad shorter...

Most any metal shop should be able to do the mod for you. You could also buy a spare shifter (as bikes here are parted out all the time) for cheap and mod that one...

If you can't find anyone to mod it, PM me, it wouldn't be that hard to do...


You could also just weld another tab closer (leave the old one on-but it'd look goofy) and try that.

 

[mylo]

make sure you disconnect the battery before and during any welding thats of course if those parts are still on the bike :BLAA:
you know what they say about small feet ??



small socks :Flash:

 

[MattR302]

Welcome to the forum, I've got the same bike.

however with my boot heal tight agents the back of the peg were I feel best for aggressive riding the tip of my toe just scrapes the shifter

The balls of your feet should be on the pegs while aggressive riding. One, to give you more control while sliding your butt around on the seat, and two, to keep your toes from dragging on the ground. You just slide your feet forward when you need to shift or use the rear brake.
Here's a thread from another forum about this topic Foot position shuffle - Sportbikes.net

 

[ACME_Rocket]

If the part of the shifter is literally too far forward, a simple fix would be to measure where (farther back on the shifter lever) would be good for you. Once located, remove the shifter lever.

This is where I was thinking myself:shakehead:
I am an Engineer at weld/fab shop so getting the shifter modified will not be a problem
However the first thing I learned in engineering is experience is important so I was wondering if anybody has tried this before
I also am thinking about seeing if another model shifter or full rearset will fit however have just look at pictures on internet so fare and the fz6 seems to have a totally different design and frame mounting locations than other bikes

 

[Nappa]

The problem could be that your boots have a heel that doesn't allow your foot to slide forward enough. Most riding boots seem to have a flatter sole and heel so that doesn't happen.

 

[Gelvatron]

Keep your toes on the foot pegs only place your foot under or on the shifter when you make the decision to shift alot of riders have a bad habit of keeping a toes under the shifter the problem with that is when you get into a good corner it's hard to shift your butt because you on the heal of your foot and your toes are now the closest part of the bike and when it touches your foot might fold back under your foot peg I'd assume that's nothing anyone wants to experience

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is where I was thinking myself:shakehead:
I am an Engineer at weld/fab shop so getting the shifter modified will not be a problem
However the first thing I learned in engineering is experience is important so I was wondering if anybody has tried this before
I also am thinking about seeing if another model shifter or full rearset will fit however have just look at pictures on internet so fare and the fz6 seems to have a totally different design and frame mounting locations than other bikes

Actually, if you wanted to play with it before cutting anything, you could drill and tap a 5/16" hole (approx) back just a little in the lever. Get a 5/16" bolt (same threads), install it and use a lock nut behind it. If you like the position, cut off the original and TIG weld it in that spot, cut/grind off the extra. Want to get fancy, put the bolt in a lathe and trim the end down round (like the stocker) and put the stock rubber pad on it.

I know the lever material is NOT brittle and can literally take a pounding in a vise (I had to straighten the brake lever on my bike before I bought it, the PO bent it).

I would think, no more than an inch back would make a big difference. A half inch back would likely be fine...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

make sure you disconnect the battery before and during any welding thats of course if those parts are still on the bike :BLAA:
you know what they say about small feet ??



small socks :Flash:

It'd be way easier to remove one bolt and the lever to get a good solid weld on the lever. :thumbup:

 

[ACME_Rocket]

The problem could be that your boots have a heel that doesn't allow your foot to slide forward enough. Most riding boots seem to have a flatter sole and heel so that doesn't happen.

Thanks
This explains a little more my problem
I know the benefits to riding up on the balls of my feet especially in corners and can easily transfer from back to my the arch however don’t like to pick up enough to clear the heal step
I am mostly a touring rider. I will take long trips to different state parks and get off for a hike
This means I need a boot that not only gives me good control on the bike but enough traction and comfort for a hike.
I just looked threw a few pictures of more racing style boots and saw how different the sole is from basic riding boots
Before I make my final decision on moding the bike I will need look at a few different boots and try them on different bikes in the show room
If I can find better suited boot for both conditions that may be an easier solution
I still think little less reach would be the best for me
I saw a post that compared stock rear sets to aftermarket one (I can’t remember the thread right now) he found that distance between peg and shifter arm to be 6-1/2” stock and 5-1/2” aftermarket

 

[ACME_Rocket]

I still think little less reach would be the best for me
I saw a post that compared stock rear sets to aftermarket one (I can’t remember the thread right now) he found that distance between peg and shifter arm to be 6-1/2” stock and 5-1/2” aftermarket

Check out this thread
I would like aftermarket rearset shifting performance with stock peg location

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/39098-ottimoto-rear-set-comparison.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Being your mostly a touring rider, I would be thinking real hard about getting that rear set. Its going to make your knees bend tighter in normal riding conditions (more of a "go fast" riding position).

If your comfy with the pegs where they are and would prefer wearing your hiking boots, IMO, I'd be looking just moving the end of the shifter back some. The shifter throw will be a little less too (a plus).

Picking up a used shifter can be had for cheap if you don't like it..

 

[412fz6]

I like your Idea about modding the lever but I think you may be better off with a different set of boots. I too do a lot of Riding and Hiking, and I have different riding boots for those activities. I have some race boots for just straight aggressive riding trips but when I go into the Parks with my riding buddies that like to hike I where a lower boot with a more active sole. They are not like a pair of Merrels but they are better than the smooth-ish soles of the race boots. I wear the Icon Tarmac boots for those trips. I'm not climbing Everest or anything but I can bend my ankles a bit more and still have decent protection on the bike.

Everything I have heard so far about riding position is pretty true, especially the catching your toe in a turn thing, it's terrifying.