2008 Yamaha FZ6 rear right running light does not turn on, yet the same bulb WILL turn on for the tu

[mett248]

Just as the post reads, got a used 2008 Yamaha FZ6. Didn't realize the rear running light wasn't working but everything else is fine. The bike still turns on that side turn signal when activated. Pulled the tail light fuse, nothing wrong with it. Any ideas?
UPDATE - Bought a new bulb from the dealership and still have the same problem. The turn signal sockets on back only have 2 wires not 3 so the double filament idea wouldnt be possible. Seems to be an electrical issue from somewhere else. Also tried the relay, nothing wrong there. Could it potentially be the turn signal switch / horn assembly on the left of the handle bars?

Follow the thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/56tr34/update_2008_yamaha_fz6_rear_right_running_light/

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The REAR DRECTIONALS (stock), ONLY blink.. Their NOT designed to operate as running light..

There's only one filament in those REAR directionals. Now the fronts DO have running lights.

AKA, you don't have any issues


Your video shows them working AS DESIGNED: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJeer5Mwo44


(I like the internal tail light directionals

 

[mett248]

I don't think you understand the issue. That video was not my bike. One of the turn signals (rear left) stays ON consistently, it blinks whenever the signal is activated, but the light continues to stay on after while the other does not. Here's a video of what's going on on my bike: YouTube

 

[fz6-Dan]

Not sure if it helps but from my experience this happens when you have those 3 wires, connect the positive and the turn signals (excluding the ground wire) will make that happen. Maybe try to change (I'm not sure which) one of those wires with the ground wire. When I installed my pod lights that's essentially what is was.

So you would not want the blue wire in this instance and want to replace it with the black ground wire. NOTE this is a diagram for pod lights not the rear turn signals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mett248]

YouTube here's a video so you have a better idea of what's going on. I looked for crossed wires and haven't been able to find any so far. Could it be the turn signal switch on the handlebars potentially?

 

[mett248]

Haven't been able to find any wire crosses, could it potentially be the turn signal switch on the handlebars? Not too sure where the connectors are for it to try unplugging it. Here's a video of my bike so you can see what's happening: YouTube

 

[fz6-Dan]

I don't think so, it would probably be coming for the turn signal connectors in the back. Trace your turn signals from back to front to find the connectors, mine was under the left fairing next my seat

I have an integrated brake light/turn signal so it may not look exactly like yours. Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

Go to the left front turn signal stalk and pull the lamp out. If that rear light goes out there may be a problem at the contacts or within the front lamp itself. That front lamp has 2 filaments, 1 for the running light circuit and 1 for the turn signal. The rear turn signal is a single filament lamp for the turn signal only. On the front left lamp, current from the running light may be passing to the turn signal circuit through a defect inside the left front bulb or even at the left front socket or the little folded wires on the leftfront lamp that fits into the socket. This could pass a low current to the left side turn signal circuit and light the left rear bulb. Let us know what you find.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A picture / video tells a thousand words... Definitely an issue.

Not the problem but make sure there's a single filament bulb in there.

Its behaving exactly like a TWO filament bulb(which shouldn't be in there).

Confirm that, (and that the socket is proper) and then resume the above testing...


** I say check the socket in that an old VT1100 I had, I put another set of FRONT RUNNING/directional
sockets/harnesses in the REAR (which COULD be done to the FZ) and that then used the two filament bulbs.

 

[Motogiro]

Also a lost ground through the bulb or the socket connection on the left front lamp can allow current to pass through the left front dual filament lamp. Current will flow through the running lamp filament and then through the turn signal filament because both filament are tied together and then are supposed to pass to -12 vdc nom. ground. If the ground is lost because of a lost connect through the bulb socket or lost ground wire the ground path becomes the stock flasher relay. The stock flasher relay voltage when the flasher lights is +12 vdc nom. to light the turn signal filament. When the OEM flasher relay is in the off cycle the circuit is not open like a relay might work. Instead it goes to ground potential. How it goes to this ground potential through the flasher relay is beyond what the schematic depicts. But it does work that way because members have employed that circuit to use single filament pod light mods to act as running light and flasher. This current that is passing through the front running light filament to go through the turn signal filament in the front lamp could be what's causing this problem.

Again check the front left turn signal lamp. It should be a dual filament lamp.

 

[mett248]

Pulled the bulb and sure enough the rear lamp went out. Put it back in and the rear dimmed back on. What's the best solution in this case? Sounds like I need to replace that side turn signal socket? Maybe upgrade to LED?

 

[Motogiro]

Pulled the bulb and sure enough the rear lamp went out. Put it back in and the rear dimmed back on. What's the best solution in this case? Sounds like I need to replace that side turn signal socket? Maybe upgrade to LED?

If you examine the lamp base you will see that there are 3 metal contact. Make sure the 2 contacts that are close to each other are not touching each other and that the lamp's wire pin contacts coincide with the contacts in the socket receptacle. Examine the lamp carefully and look for a defective filament that may have broke and bridged to the other filament. Make sure the receptacle contacts are not corroded which could cause a bad ground. You could also take the lamp from the right side and put it in the left side to prove out the socket and wiring. Yes there is always the LED alternative but why not solve the issue foe the moment. Over half the battle is won! Blah

 

[mett248]

Swapped the two bulbs and have the same result, seems like something in the wiring. I tried electrical contact cleaner in the socket but did not help.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Are there ANY SIGNS of the stock wiring harness being hacked up?

Under the left pod, rear directional, up front, ANY??

 

[mett248]

The only 'hacking' I saw when I got the bike was an LED bar wired to the brake in the back. I have since removed it, and have not seen any other signs of modification under either fender, or under the tank.

 

[Motogiro]

There is a high probability is that receptacle has lost it's continuity to ground. That poor/bad ground may be a failed wire in the receptacle at the ground contact for the bulb. That contact in the receptacle is the single one and not the 2 close ones. If you have an ohm meter you can test for continuity from that receptacle contact to chassis ground or the negative lead on the battery. You should see continuity to a screw on the engine. If you have no continuity you've found the problem.....


Also please confirm that you have a dual filament lamp in the front turn signal stalk and a single filament in the rear turn signal stalk as well as having the lamp in the correct position. The front lamps can be install incorrectly/reversed which could cause this problem.

 

[mett248]

There is continuity when tested to an engine mount. There is a working dual filament bulb in front and single in the rear. The dual is seated correctly as well, tested on the other side.

 

[mett248]

Now that I know there is continuity, any thoughts on how I should proceeded. Thanks for all the help by the way, I'm pretty mechanically minded but electrical can be tricky!

 

[Motogiro]

Now that I know there is continuity, any thoughts on how I should proceeded. Thanks for all the help by the way, I'm pretty mechanically minded but electrical can be tricky!

It looks like the bulb is either crossing the running light and the turn signal voltage or the bulb is not making ground contact at it's base through the socket. When the front lamp is in, the rear lamp is lighting. If the front lamp can't get it's ground path the current will seek the path through the running light filamentthen through the turn signal filament and travel through the wire to the rear turn signal filament and get it's ground through that rear lamp. Can you flip the wire staples so that they make contact on the other side of the base of the lamp?

 

[Motogiro]

Here's a diagram that might help. When current is applied to either the running light or turn signal filament, in the front lamp current will flow through the filament that has voltage applied to it and then to ground.
When there is a lost ground at the front lamp, voltage will flow through the running light filament, then through the turn signal filament on the front lamp and then travel through the turn signal wire to the rear turn signal lamp and through the rear turn signal filament to it's ground. All three filaments will light. The filament will be dimly lit because the are running in series.

The other scenario would be if the running light voltage is transferring directly to turn signal filament and lighting that turn signal circuit as well.

I believe because the rear lamp is dim and then lighting bright when the turn signal is applied that you have a lost ground. Since you say you have tested the socket contact to ground and that it is good it would mean the lamp ground staple is not making contact inside the socket.