2008 FZ6 upgrade/ Vibration help

[Ssky0078]

Hello, this is my first post so please bear with me.

I recently purchased a 2008 Yamaha FZ6 with about 7k miles. I am a fairly big dude 6'4" 250lbs. I love the bike so far but I am looking at making some upgrades and possible fixes.

Can anyone tell me what effect will be had with installing a Two Brothers Carbon Fiber exhaust system, Juicebox Pro, and Two Brothers Air Filter? I know it should get about 4-10 more hp and 3-6 more lb-ft torque. My concern is if it will kill my gas mileage (approx 43-45 mpg with my semi-aggressive riding style)

Secondly I am getting quite a bit of vibration. This is my first motorcycle so I really have no reference point but I almost want to say the Honda 250 dual sport bike that I used for the Basic Rider Course was less buzzy. The vibration is worse at the handle bars and laugh all you want but a lot between the legs, but not in a good way. I have talked to guys that ride other bikes and they seem to not get as much vibration. Can anyone offer some productive comment/suggestions as to help reduce the vibration?

Cheers

 

[Psycho_Crazy]

My bike have the same vibration, probably the sound/vibration come from the clutch cable. When the vibration starts touch the cable, to check if really come from him

 

[NorcoT]

Welcome to the family Ssky, your going to love it

Firstly its hard to say whats going to happen with the gas consumption without asking someone who has upgraded to the same kit (in my opinion).. First guess is that you will loose some mpg but thats a stab in the dark. On the plus side the improvements you do get as you said is more power, also it should shave some weight off the back end as the stock exhaust system is heavy, and not to mention it will sound a lot more race'y

The Vibrations - All the Fizzer (and Yama) riders I know all have vibrations of some sort! This is not to say what you have is the same however! The usual vibrations people people experience are: Clutch Hub rattle or cam chain rattle. Saying that, from my experience vibrations from these are never serious enough to vibrate between my legs or even up through my bars (except from my 96 Yamaha Divy, that thing rattled me to pieces every time it hit 4000rpm!)..

Is the vibration there when you are stationary (ie rev the motor standing still) or do you only get the vibration when you are physically moving? This should narrow it down to whether it is an engine vibration or something else.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Wecome to the forum! :welcome:


I had the exact same vibrations (more than the typical in-line four cylinder buzz).

A throttle sync at idle and re-adjusting the syn at about 4,000 RPM helped alot getting rid of approx 80% of it. The closer you get it, the smoother the engine will be. Spec's call to keep them within 10mm of each other, I have mine within 2MM's. Also, check your engine mounts, that their torqued to spec...

Foam grip puppies and my leather gloves with gel inner pads got rid of the handlebar buzz. They do take a little time to get used (I have pretty large hands as well so you shouldn't have a problem).

As for the seat, I had Spencers:

( Page 1 )

re-do my seat with a product called Supra-core... Its not Gel and seems to work very, very well. Considerably cheaper than a new seat, does absolutly superior work and super quick turn around. Took longer to ship than to mod the seat. I kept the stock seat demensions however, he'll modify it to your liking and seemed to know (for the FZ) what the guys generally like to trim away/add, etc...

BTW, I just about sold the bike as the vib's bugged me that bad... Now, super smooth, not an issue what so ever...

 

[motojoe122]

Wecome to the forum! :welcome:


I had the exact same vibrations (more than the typical in-line four cylinder buzz).

A throttle sync at idle and re-adjusting the syn at about 4,000 RPM helped alot getting rid of approx 80% of it. The closer you get it, the smoother the engine will be. Spec's call to keep them within 10mm of each other, I have mine within 2MM's. Also, check your engine mounts, that their torqued to spec...

Foam grip puppies and my leather gloves with gel inner pads got rid of the handlebar buzz. They do take a little time to get used (I have pretty large hands as well so you shouldn't have a problem).

As for the seat, I had Spencers:

( Page 1 )

re-do my seat with a product called Supra-core... Its not Gel and seems to work very, very well. Considerably cheaper than a new seat, does absolutly superior work and super quick turn around. Took longer to ship than to mod the seat. I kept the stock seat demensions however, he'll modify it to your liking and seemed to know (for the FZ) what the guys generally like to trim away/add, etc...

BTW, I just about sold the bike as the vib's bugged me that bad... Now, super smooth, not an issue what so ever...

+1 on all that!
I recommend HVMP bar ends as well.

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: 2008 FZ6 upgrade / Vibration help

Lets not forget to tighten our spark plug caps. . . .

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...when-doing-spark-plug-changes.html#post506246

Add a little Techron Fuel treatment every now and then.

Properly clean and lubricate the chain! Do NOT over tighten it! It will make vibes you don't want. Also you may want to take the time to align it properly which can also reduce vibrations. . . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/40463-how-string-align-your-rear-wheel.html

Perhaps even a little maintenance adjustment. . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/45292-keep-simple-chain-adjustment-made-easy.html

Those plus what was recomended above should help smooth her out.

 

[Ssky0078]

Thanks for the input, it's a good thing it is a holiday weekend and I will have time to check out all the suggestions.

I have noticed that the vibration is worse at around 4000 rpm on up. At highway speeds (6000 rpm in 6th) and up it is the worse. If I pull the clutch in (disengaged) then and let the rpms drop there is no vibration. If I rev the engine between 4000-6000 rpms while clutch is till disengaged, the vibration came back but only half as bad.

I think first I will check out the chain and make any necessary adjustments. 1 guy at the local bike shop said it looks good, the other said it looks a little loose.

Thanks again and I'll let you know if it resolves.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the input, it's a good thing it is a holiday weekend and I will have time to check out all the suggestions.

I have noticed that the vibration is worse at around 4000 rpm on up. At highway speeds (6000 rpm in 6th) and up it is the worse. If I pull the clutch in (disengaged) then and let the rpms drop there is no vibration. If I rev the engine between 4000-6000 rpms while clutch is till disengaged, the vibration came back but only half as bad.

I think first I will check out the chain and make any necessary adjustments. 1 guy at the local bike shop said it looks good, the other said it looks a little loose.

Thanks again and I'll let you know if it resolves.

If its in the higher rev range, its likely not as much a sync related issue. Definitly check motor mount bolt torques, as well as the chain tension as Randy mentioned. A good cleaning and lubing wouldn't hurt either.

The chain on the FZ needs to be adjusted on the centerstand and at its TAUGHTEST POINT(Not shown in the video), be approx 1.77" and just over 2.17" TOTAL up and down. DO NOT LET THEM ADJUST IT TIGHTER THAN THAT.

If you need a PDF Yamaha shop manual, PM me with an e-mail address and the year bike...

 

[Ssky0078]

Re: 2008 FZ6 upgrade / Vibration help

Lets not forget to tighten our spark plug caps. . . .

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...when-doing-spark-plug-changes.html#post506246

Add a little Techron Fuel treatment every now and then.

Properly clean and lubricate the chain! Do NOT over tighten it! It will make vibes you don't want. Also you may want to take the time to align it properly which can also reduce vibrations. . . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/40463-how-string-align-your-rear-wheel.html

Perhaps even a little maintenance adjustment. . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/45292-keep-simple-chain-adjustment-made-easy.html

Those plus what was recomended above should help smooth her out.

Ok, I was doing some research on videos demonstrating chain adjustment. What do you think about the following video [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7uXGmaWphs]Yamaha FZ6 Oil + Filter Change Chain Adjustment - YouTube[/ame] he gets to the chain at 9:30 in the video. I am wondering if his method of checking the distance from the swing arm pivot to the rear axle on each side will accomplish the same as your string method. The only instance I can think where it would fail is if the swing arm is not in alignment with the rest of the frame.

What do you think?

 

[foxbass]

It can be done like that. Someone on the forum a few years ago made a simple tool (I think out of a piece of welding rod) that enables a measurement to be taken from the pivot centre to axle centre. It did require some workshop skills however. Failing that, the string method is pretty much the easiest. Once alignment is set, one only has to make sure to turn each adjuster exactly the same amount to regulate slack.

 

[Ssky0078]

Ok, so I put the bike on the center stand and checked the chain slack and it was at the tightest segment approximately that 1.77" (a little over an inch and a 3/4) and at the loosest up to 1.95" (a little under 2 inches). Could my big body (6'4", 250) be too much for the that type of tightness?

I did the swingarm measurement and as far as I could tell the distance was equal on both sides.

I have to wait till tomorrow to head to the hardware store to get some string and masking tape to do the string method.

I did another little test today to see if the bike was pulling (someone said the string method had helped this on another thread). I went hands-free lol, and the bike pulls to the left every time, to keep it straight I almost had to lean the same as a 10-15 degree right turn.

I'm thinking the string method is going to be a big help when I get it done.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It can be done like that. Someone on the forum a few years ago made a simple tool (I think out of a piece of welding rod) that enables a measurement to be taken from the pivot centre to axle centre. It did require some workshop skills however. Failing that, the string method is pretty much the easiest. Once alignment is set, one only has to make sure to turn each adjuster exactly the same amount to regulate slack.

I've never had to do the string method as my chain sprocket are wearing normally and the bike doesn't pull what so ever. I quoted the above as if you don't have a welding rod, a very straightened out piece of heavy wire COAT HANGER would work the same... Two 90 degree bends on each end.

It also sounds like your chain is adjusted just inside spec's at 1.75". IMHO, I'd clean it real well and lube it. I would also loosen it just a tad (between 1.75 and 2"), it doesn't like to be tight (especially since I don't know the condition of your chain). Please look closely at the chain for ANY KINKING. The chain should also NOT PULL AWAY (BY HAND) FROM THE REAR SPROCKET, if it does, you have some wear..

Also, if you pull off the front sprocket cover, (three bolts-you don't need to remove the shifter linkage), if its got the stock Yamaha sprocket on it, it'll have a black, plastic like ring just inside the teeth. If its worn out, the chain will NOTCH OUT marks in that ring. That will make noise and cause some roughness, (vibration, not likely). * Don't pinch the two wires next to the stator when re-assembling*

I know the chain is still low mileage but if it hasn't been maintained, it can make a racket. A worn chain can sneak up on you and eventually make some weird noises, vibs, etc.

As for pulling, in a flat parking lot, does it still pull (you still have to lean)? Or is it just on the crown of the roadway?

One other thing, due to your size, you CAN ADJUST the rear shock spring pre-load tighter to make up for you size..Obviously, turn the adjuster so it tightening up the spring..

 

[Ssky0078]

I've never had to do the string method as my chain sprocket are wearing normally and the bike doesn't pull what so ever. I quoted the above as if you don't have a welding rod, a very straightened out piece of heavy wire COAT HANGER would work the same... Two 90 degree bends on each end.

It also sounds like your chain is adjusted just inside spec's at 1.75". IMHO, I'd clean it real well and lube it. I would also loosen it just a tad (between 1.75 and 2"), it doesn't like to be tight (especially since I don't know the condition of your chain). Please look closely at the chain for ANY KINKING. The chain should also NOT PULL AWAY (BY HAND) FROM THE REAR SPROCKET, if it does, you have some wear..

Also, if you pull off the front sprocket cover, (three bolts-you don't need to remove the shifter linkage), if its got the stock Yamaha sprocket on it, it'll have a black, plastic like ring just inside the teeth. If its worn out, the chain will NOTCH OUT marks in that ring. That will make noise and cause some roughness, (vibration, not likely). * Don't pinch the two wires next to the stator when re-assembling*

I know the chain is still low mileage but if it hasn't been maintained, it can make a racket. A worn chain can sneak up on you and eventually make some weird noises, vibs, etc.

As for pulling, in a flat parking lot, does it still pull (you still have to lean)? Or is it just on the crown of the roadway?

One other thing, due to your size, you CAN ADJUST the rear shock spring pre-load tighter to make up for you size..Obviously, turn the adjuster so it tightening up the spring..

Thanks for the advice. I have already adjusted the rear shock spring preload down 2 notches. It was at 7 and is now down to 5. It seemed to make the ride feel more controlled and responsive in corners but did not affect the vibration too much if at all.

I took a look at the chain for any wear pattern marks and did not see anything too obvious for my noob eyes. I did notice that the chain seemed to run the sprocket teeth mostly to the left (when looking from the back) and not down the middle. Is this normal?

 

[sloring]

+1 on all that!
I recommend HVMP bar ends as well.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/33371-hvmp-bar-ends-heavy-review.html

 

[Ssky0078]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/33371-hvmp-bar-ends-heavy-review.html

Thanks, I looked at the thread. I don't think I could use them because where I park my bike I actually pull it through a doorway with about a half inch on each side. I wonder if they could make a stubbier version?

 

[sloring]

Thanks, I looked at the thread. I don't think I could use them because where I park my bike I actually pull it through a doorway with about a half inch on each side. I wonder if they could make a stubbier version?

all you have to do is turn the bar...you'll be able to squeeze in even if that doorway was a foot narrower!

 

[Ssky0078]

I didn't even think of that, lol. Noob ftw.

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: 2008 FZ6 upgrade / Vibration help

Lets not forget to tighten our spark plug caps. . . .

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...when-doing-spark-plug-changes.html#post506246

Add a little Techron Fuel treatment every now and then.

Properly clean and lubricate the chain! Do NOT over tighten it! It will make vibes you don't want. Also you may want to take the time to align it properly which can also reduce vibrations. . . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/40463-how-string-align-your-rear-wheel.html

Perhaps even a little maintenance adjustment. . . http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/45292-keep-simple-chain-adjustment-made-easy.html

Those plus what was recomended above should help smooth her out.

I am wondering if his method of checking the distance from the swing arm pivot to the rear axle on each side will accomplish the same as your string method. The only instance I can think where it would fail is if the swing arm is not in alignment with the rest of the frame.

If you cruise through these threads, the last one shows a quick method to verify the axle squareness inside the blocks. You need some veneer calipers like these. There is NO Guarantee this aligns the wheel to the bike, only to the factory hash marks.

Opinions will vary but IMO, holding a tape measure to the center of an open hole (a tape with sliding hook is a DOUBLE NO NO) is a waste of time. YES, IT WAS IN THE VIDEO but that doesn't make it right.

** CUT AND PASTE FROM LINKED THREAD ** Read the later half of thread as to HOW we got here. . .
From here, well you have to measure around the nut so I had to flip the calipers. But wholly Cr@p, the numbers are within a 0.002" when measuring the the same area the adjusters contact the block and swing arm! HAHA!
That'd be news to me!

Most folks can afford a string, some tape, and $4.00 set of feeler gauges so this is why i wrote this. If you want some Veneer Calipers, be my guest and buy them!

** END PASTE **
A couple of FZs have been verified using the Veneer calipers so we have that going for us!

 

[FinalImpact]

Getting back to your engine vibration:

Please take 10 minutes and pull all of the spark plug caps off and hold the high tension lead and rotate (clockwise) the cap to confirm each wire is snug and properly seated into the cap. It should not turn on the wires.

If all of the sparks energy is not being delivered to the plugs gap under load, it can make some strange vibrations! Besides, you have nothing to loose and everything to gain.

 

[Ssky0078]

Getting back to your engine vibration:

Please take 10 minutes and pull all of the spark plug caps off and hold the high tension lead and rotate (clockwise) the cap to confirm each wire is snug and properly seated into the cap. It should not turn on the wires.

If all of the sparks energy is not being delivered to the plugs gap under load, it can make some strange vibrations! Besides, you have nothing to loose and everything to gain.

I read the entire previous thread about this. I decided to go ahead and just replace the plugs with NGK IX iridium ones (coming on 8k miles on factory, I know they can go twice as long but I just got the bike used and want to set my own schedule starting now) and I will check the plug caps then. I should get this done Sunday.

Ok, I kept thinking about it as I was writing this post, I went outside and my giant XXL hands could only reach the first 2 caps pull them to check them without taking the radiator off and I could barely reach the 3rd cap and only twist the lead wire while the cap was still seated, it seemed to not move. From what I could tell the lead wire was fairly snug into the cap and the caps are well seated. I'll give it a more thorough job on Sunday

I also got the string and tape today and going to string the alignment. BTW the guy at the bike shop had another method to quickly check the swingarm distance to axle on each side. He said take a wire coat hanger and straighten it out as best as possible. Put a small zip tie on the end going to the axle and the other end thread through the swing arm pivot. check one side and mark with the zip tie since it can slide closer or farther and then flip and do the other side. I might as well try all the different methods and do a comparison. Sunday will probably be a two to four beer episode with all the trouble shooting. :thumbup: