1st season Winterizing

GuantanamoShrey

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Hey guys,

It was a great 1st season of riding for me, hopefully a month more before I have to put it in a garage.

I currently don't have a garage at my location so use a standard cover.

My room mates and I are going to rent out a garage but want to know the proper steps in winterizing our bikes. Since we all started around the same time we are new to it and would like some tips.

Thanks,
 

Botch

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I've read that it's good to change your oil before winter, as used oil has contaminants and stuff that aren't good for the metals in your engine; that said, I've sometimes done this, sometimes not. :rolleyes:
There are periods in the winters here where its cold, but the streets are free of ice/snow, and I usually start up Fizzer and ride around a bit, so I've never used a battery tender. YMMV.
Other than that, got nothing.
 

iSteve

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I just give the bike a good cleaning, clean and lube the chain, Fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer and bring the battery inside. Been working for me over the past 30 years.
 

mountaincycle

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Why would you winterizing your bike?... Just buy some heated gear and keep riding. :thumbup: - That's easy to say when you live in the south :rockon: and not New Jersey.

actually, change the oil, give it a good bath and pop on your battery tender.
 

dschult2

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My routine is this. Wax the bike, fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer, change the oil, either take the battery inside or put on a tender, rags in the exhaust pipe to keep critters from making a nest, tuck it away in the corner of the garage with a cover on the center stand. Also a piece of carpet under the front tire to protect from moisture, and rotate the tire every month or two just so it doesn't flat spot. Do this and she'll be waiting patiently for your return come spring:thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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Adding to the Above(s).... Mine is parked for about 3 ~ 4 months...

  • Techron Fuel treatment and RIDE out at least a 1/2 tank to get the moisture out of the fuel. Fill it, add fuel stabilizer, run it long enough to get the stabilizer to the injectors. Top it off again.
  • Wash, Wax bike
  • be sure to clean bugs off stanchion tubes and oil them lightly.
  • Oil Clutch cable
  • Clean and lube chain
  • Change oil and filter (after engine work i.e. valve adjust).
  • --> Leave battery in if its FULLY CHARGED (>12.85Vdc). Battery is original from 2008, its just about done so I see a new AGM come spring.
  • ->> Brakes were flushed with new DOT 4 around June so N/A!

  • NEW DRYER SHEETS shoved into at least 4 spots for Rodent Deterrent.
  • Hang a bag of dehumidifier under her pajama's.. .. ..

In addition this year she will get:
Valves adjusted (one is making a tap tap tap sound)
Coolant flush due this year.
Suspension: Possibly new fork springs and new 7.5 wt oil to R6 forks...


Depending on circumstances:
** maybe pull the head off and port match + install R6 head gasket for C/R increase.
See if R6 coil packs will fit our valve cover. Pretty sure they won't come out without dropping the engine an inch even with an R6 valve cover....
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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I just give the bike a good cleaning, clean and lube the chain, Fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer and bring the battery inside. Been working for me over the past 30 years.

+1^^^.

Just make sure you run the engine so the stabilizer gets into the fuel rail, injectors, etc.

Seafoam works very well, (oil based) which you can mix on the heavy side and make sure the tank is topped off as high as possible to prevent rusting..

Placing in the centerstand and getting the front tire off the ground (sizzor jack, block of wood, etc) wouldn't hurt either..
 
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