06 Fz6 with error 19 code bad ecu?

[ct_quicksilver]

my fz6 gives me an error code 19 and dies while riding or it comes on when i turn the key on and wont start. dealer told me it was the sidestand sensor so I put a jumper on that circuit and bypassed it. Still gives me error code but its so unpredictable its hard to troubleshoot. I have moved all the wires with bike in gear running on centerstand trying to duplicate a loose wire/connection and nothing... I thought maybe low voltage to the ecu was the problem tested battery and its perfect and charge voltage is good... Anyone else had error 19 problems?

 

[oz1980]

from manual

Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault Code: 21

hope this helps

 

[namruso]

Bump. Having this same issue

 

[Motogiro]

I did a quick look at the schematic and although I haven't found the ID for #4 pin/terminal on the ECU yet.
I do know that there is a relay assembly called the starting circuit cutout relay, that should not be confused with the starter relay, that might be the place to look for the issue. I have a full plate the next few days and may not get to go deep on this but this unit also is the safety cutout for things like having the bike in neutral, the clutch switch lever and side stand switch. This unit is in one one of the side pods. I forget which side but I want to say the left.. Has anyone worked on the ignition or the ignition wire harness lately? Many times the module gets blown when there is an attempt to hotwire the bike or a hack works on the bike and shorts wiring at the ignition Do you see you neutral safety light come on when in neutral?.

 

[namruso]

Mahalo for the prompt reply. Yes, the neutral light comes on. I recently tried to tap a gear indicator to the ecu, but decided to take it off as it was a generic brand that didnt work. IIRC, I tapped into the neutral light wire. Could that be causing the problem? Should I check out the power line going to the ecu?

Mahalo for your time. I need to fix this bad boy haha.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes, it could be, but it should start with the clutch in. Grounding the Neutral wire should light the green N light with key on. Disconnecting it, should turn the light off.

Something doesn't add up. Literal pin #4 is headlight relay.
ID #4 is the backup fuse. Neither of these relate to this issue.

Note wire colors and position vary! See color picture of Connector Embossing. Drawing views are looking into wire harness as seen from ECU.

PIN #1 Top Right Grey/Black trace.
PIN #17 Top Left.
PIN #18 Bottom Right Orange/Black Trace.
PIN #34 Bottom Left YELLOW See color pict below.

So, go into Diagnostic mode and select #20. Move the side stand up and down. On the S2 it displays ON or OFF. S1, I don't know.

Fault Code 19 = Sidestand switch (open circuit wire harness to ECU) --> Open circuit is detected in the input line from the sidestand switch to the ECU. Diagnostic code #20

1 Connected state of connector
• Main wire harness ECU coupler (No. 13 and 30 pin, black)
• Alarm coupler
• Check the coupler for any pins that may have pulled out.
• Check the locking condition of the coupler.
• If there is a malfunction, repair it and connect it securely.

2 Open or short circuit in wire harness or sub lead.
• Repair or replace if there is an open or short circuit.
• Between ECU and sidestand switch (Black/Red–Blue/Green)

3 Defective sidestand switch
• Execute the diagnostic monitoring mode. (Code No.20)
• Replace if defective. Refer to "CHECKING THE SWITCHES" on page 8-63.


JJD952 Electrical

 

[Motogiro]

Thank you FI! ^^^^ That is great info on the pin out for the ECU.
We now have 2 different posters that may have related problem in the same general area but the problems/fix may be different.

There is a thread where we walk through the trouble shooting process to test the starting circuit cutout relay circuit. This circuit is were the side stand switch, clutch lever switch, and neutral safety must connect, and if for example, you're riding in gear and put the side stand down, this circuit gives the logic to the ECU to shut the bike off or not allow it to start unless the clutch lever is pulled in. This is the circuit that tells the ECU what logic state is occurring with the 3 safety switches.

Pin #4 on the ECU is incorrectly called out as a possible because it is the headlight relay ground path from the ECU that allows the headlamp circuit relay to activate after the engine is running.

Yes all roads lead to Rome (ECU) but we should probably do methodic testing to determine if these safety protocols are met at the starting circuit cutout relay first.

[MENTION=16658]namruso[/MENTION] Mahalo Brudda! Are you also seeing the error code 19?

 

[namruso]

Thank you FI! ^^^^ That is great info on the pin out for the ECU.
We now have 2 different posters that may have related problem in the same general area but the problems/fix may be different.

There is a thread where we walk through the trouble shooting process to test the starting circuit cutout relay circuit. This circuit is were the side stand switch, clutch lever switch, and neutral safety must connect, and if for example, you're riding in gear and put the side stand down, this circuit gives the logic to the ECU to shut the bike off or not allow it to start unless the clutch lever is pulled in. This is the circuit that tells the ECU what logic state is occurring with the 3 safety switches.

Pin #4 on the ECU is incorrectly called out as a possible because it is the headlight relay ground path from the ECU that allows the headlamp circuit relay to activate after the engine is running.

Yes all roads lead to Rome (ECU) but we should probably do methodic testing to determine if these safety protocols are met at the starting circuit cutout relay first.

[MENTION=16658]namruso[/MENTION] Mahalo Brudda! Are you also seeing the error code 19?

Hehe yes I'm seeing the code 19 demon also.

TL;dr:
General Symtoms:
- No starter activity or engine will not turn over
- Engine stall (typically at high rpm)


Hooookay. So riding for the past week has given me more information to the issue. This first symptom will happen maybe 10-15% of the time, more frequent if bike saw rain prior. When first starting up my fz6, it intermittently WILL NOT turn over or WILL NOT even have the starter engage. In either case, the engine light will be solid, and sometimes turning the tumbler to the off position for a few seconds then turning back to the on position will sometimes fix this issue. Tested with both kickstand up in neutral and first gear, and also with kickstand down in neutral.


This second symptom happens maybe 20% of the time. The second symptom will show when my wrist problem kicks in and starts setting the bike to a high rpm. Engine will stall and will put it back into the case of first symptom (almost always shows first symptom when second symptom happens).

Last time it happened had been today, when I was trying to get out of rain. Gunned it, stalled, and sat there for 2 mins trying to get the engine to turn over (new longest record). So spicy.

After some digging, seems like others with r6s have had the same problem, but no resolve. Link provided:
Kickstand Switch - Code 19 - R6Messagenet.com


Let's now take pause to scratch our heads.

Mahalo!
Sean

 

[Motogiro]

Hehe yes I'm seeing the code 19 demon also.

TL;dr:
General Symtoms:
- No starter activity or engine will not turn over
- Engine stall (typically at high rpm)


Hooookay. So riding for the past week has given me more information to the issue. This first symptom will happen maybe 10-15% of the time, more frequent if bike saw rain prior. When first starting up my fz6, it intermittently WILL NOT turn over or WILL NOT even have the starter engage. In either case, the engine light will be solid, and sometimes turning the tumbler to the off position for a few seconds then turning back to the on position will sometimes fix this issue. Tested with both kickstand up in neutral and first gear, and also with kickstand down in neutral.


This second symptom happens maybe 20% of the time. The second symptom will show when my wrist problem kicks in and starts setting the bike to a high rpm. Engine will stall and will put it back into the case of first symptom (almost always shows first symptom when second symptom happens).

Last time it happened had been today, when I was trying to get out of rain. Gunned it, stalled, and sat there for 2 mins trying to get the engine to turn over (new longest record). So spicy.

After some digging, seems like others with r6s have had the same problem, but no resolve. Link provided:
Kickstand Switch - Code 19 - R6Messagenet.com


Let's now take pause to scratch our heads.

Mahalo!
Sean

Sean,
I'm thinking the code 19 may be a leftover error code? The ECU can store previous error codes. One of the most common intermittent problems with the FZ6 is the red kill switch. You might want to bypass the switch by soldering a jumper across the switch and take it for a spin to see if this cures your intermittent problem. Again your problem may be different from the OP's.

 

[namruso]

Sean,
I'm thinking the code 19 may be a leftover error code? The ECU can store previous error codes. One of the most common intermittent problems with the FZ6 is the red kill switch. You might want to bypass the switch by soldering a jumper across the switch and take it for a spin to see if this cures your intermittent problem. Again you problem may be different from the OP's.

Is there a how to for that? I'm not sure which wire to bypass or how.

 

[Motogiro]

Is there a how to for that? I'm not sure which wire to bypass or how.

Here's a link to a thread where someone had issue with the "run switch" There have been a few threads on this switch... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html#post528650

 

[namruso]

Here's a link to a thread where someone had issue with the "run switch" There have been a few threads on this switch... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html#post528650

THIS! ^

Alright I think I'm going to try to clean the cutoff switch before just soldering in the connections (since someone stated you may need it to pass safety.)

I will try to work on it sometime this week and post results after a few test rides.

 

[namruso]

Alright, so I was going to open up the right switch assy today, but I remember something about things possibly flying around when opening it. I was trying to find a guide to opening it, but alas, I have come up empty handed. I tried looking at the linked threads but still didn't find anything. Please help do want to drink beer after this fix X(

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Alright, so I was going to open up the right switch assy today, but I remember something about things possibly flying around when opening it. I was trying to find a guide to opening it, but alas, I have come up empty handed. I tried looking at the linked threads but still didn't find anything. Please help do want to drink beer after this fix X(

Post #14 specifically:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-2.html?highlight=kill+switch

 

[FinalImpact]

Alright, so I was going to open up the right switch assy today, but I remember something about things possibly flying around when opening it. I was trying to find a guide to opening it, but alas, I have come up empty handed. I tried looking at the linked threads but still didn't find anything. Please help do want to drink beer after this fix X(

Did the killer switch resolve this issue? Just curious... thx!

 

[Wolfweyr]

For what it's worth, anyone reading this in 2022+, I had this issue and replacing the Starter Circuit Cutout Relay solved it.