04 FZ6: Jerky 1st & 2nd gear engagement

[TobiasYoda]

Hey everyone, I've had an 04 FZ6 for 3 years, and replaced the clutch cable when I bought it. The cable frequently loosens bit by bit with time, and I need to adjust it every few weeks or so. Very often while easing out the clutch and rolling on the throttle, the bike feels like it jerks or grabs into 1st gear as I start moving from a complete stop. This happens right at the tail end of the friction zone, probably the last 2-3mm or so. It doesn't happen every single time, if I'm able to very precisely ease the clutch out those last 2-3mm. This happens when engaging 2nd gear also, but to a lesser extent. I ride about 100 miles a week in a suburban setting. Many stop signs and traffic lights.

The only thing that cures it for a week or so is to make the clutch cable VERY tight by adjusting the cable at the lever and near the engine (which is a pain). I maintain the bike with regular oil changes and cable lubricating. Is there anything malfunctioning on the bike?

 

[FinalImpact]

Hi and Welcome Aboard! :welcome:

Are you using motorcycle specific oil that meets the following:

Recommended engine oil grade:
API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

Drive chain slack should be about 2.0" also...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Welcome to the forum!!!


Did you replace that cable with a GENUINE YAMAHA cable or an aftermarket Chinese knock off?

This is extremely important as most cables are NOT as good as OEM and will stretch more, etc. Just the need to re-adjust often tells me the cable is likely your issue (worn-they do stretch with time or cheap)..

Depending on your mileage and maintenance to the cable. It does need to be lubed. I'll do mine roughly every two months or so...

If its NOT a genuine Yamaha OEM cable, I'd replace that cable first thing..

 

[Zealot]

Very often while easing out the clutch and rolling on the throttle, the bike feels like it jerks or grabs into 1st gear as I start moving from a complete stop. This happens right at the tail end of the friction zone, probably the last 2-3mm or so.

As far as I'm aware, this is normal. Mine does it too and I'm pretty sure it's the drive train slack being taken up as the bike starts to roll. It's the same reason why if you stop your bike in first gear with the clutch in and try to roll forward or backward, there's a point where you'll likely feel a brief resistance and hear a little click sound.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ Doesn't seem very normal to me. And if this were the norm I'd think there would be many more complaints.....

My idle speed ~ 1100 and I hardly raise the RPM during initial clutch release. Once the clutch is out, then its as needed for the situation.

Listen here at the beginning 0:00, 3:40, and 4:55... Although in listening, I do raise the RPM, return to idle position but just as the engine is coming down release the clutch and basically idle off.
Soundcloud MP3 Audio - FZ6 playin

Here - listen at 0:30 and 1:00 hardly any increase and then ease on the throttle.... In this case the engine was apart and I was listening for new or different noises after valve adjustment.
Soundcloud MP3 Audio - FZ6 After Valve Adjustment

 

[ratrider45]

if you bought it used there may have been a previous wheelie monster owner most inline 4 cylinder bikes can be revved to 4 to 6 k and then clutch popped for wheelies,also down shifting with out rev matching can cause the same symptoms which end up being notches in the clutch basket remove the cable and clutch cover and see how bad the notches are. some times the notches can be filed smooth eliminating the problem but if they're really bad buy and replace the basket plated and the cover gasket. REMEMBER to soak the fiber plates in fresh engine oil overnight and sand the metal plates on a flat surface with 60 grit sandpaper before reassembly.let me know how it goes...John

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

^^ Doesn't seem very normal to me.

Agreed, it is NOT normal.

That's what the rear sprocket cushions help with. If it wasn't there before and just started, well.....

A peek at the outer clutch basket as noted above wouldn't hurt. You didn't mention the mileage on the engine either..

 

[TobiasYoda]

Ok, I apologize for the lack of information on the bike. It's got 21k miles now, I bought it with 12.5k on there. I'm the 3rd owner, I don't know what the previous guys did with it. Maybe they wheelied? I can't know for sure. I had the bike inspected by the dealer when I first bought it, who replaced the clutch cable, so they better damn well have used OEM cable. As far as my motor oil goes, not sure what that has to do with it, but I usually just pour in whatever's leftover from my deep fryer.

Just kidding, I use Repsol Moto/Synthetic 10W-40. The jerky clutch has been there since I've owned it, I adjust and lube the cable a couple a times per year. Clutch adjustment eliminates the problem, but I have been wondering about the clutch basket. Older posts on this forum suggest that this issue may be just an inherent thing for this model and year.

So then, are the top 2 things to look at the clutch basket and chain slack?

Also, is it ok just to remove the large nut that's on the front sprocket of the bike? Just put the bike in gear and wrench off the nut? Mine is getting rusty. This is my first bike, btw, and I do my best to take care of her and ride safe. E.g. no wheelies or redlining.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, I apologize for the lack of information on the bike. It's got 21k miles now, I bought it with 12.5k on there. I'm the 3rd owner, I don't know what the previous guys did with it. Maybe they wheelied? I can't know for sure. I had the bike inspected by the dealer when I first bought it, who replaced the clutch cable, so they better damn well have used OEM cable

The jerky clutch has been there since I've owned it, I adjust and lube the cable a couple a times per year. Clutch adjustment eliminates the problem, but I have been wondering about the clutch basket. Older posts on this forum suggest that this issue may be just an inherent thing for this model and year.

So then, are the top 2 things to look at the clutch basket and chain slack?

Also, is it ok just to remove the large nut that's on the front sprocket of the bike? Just put the bike in gear and wrench off the nut? Mine is getting rusty. This is my first bike, btw, and I do my best to take care of her and ride safe. E.g. no wheelies or redlining.

Chain slack is CRITICAL.

With the bike on the CC, chain cleaned and lubed, I've found exactly TWO INCHES TOTAL up and down (at the tightest point) is good. Measure at ONE pin, pushed up and down fairly firmly. The area should be about at the rear of the plastic swing arm guard (greenish colored). If the chain is excessively loose, smooth shifts are VERY DIFFICULT. Too tight, the chine will whine and its NOT good for the chain, bearings etc...


In Bold above, in clutch adjustment, you referring to it stretching out?? I think you answered the question right there yourself.
If your adjusting the cable out that often, its not normal. I'm on the original cable at 20,000 miles and expect easily another 10,000 miles out of it. IMO, I'd replace that cable with OEM cable before digging deeper.

Looking at the basket is easy enough but you'll likely need a cover gasket.

Re, removing the ft sprocket, DO NOT PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR to hold it. That nut is torqued to 65 ft lbs and the retainer plate(with tabs) should be replaced. To hold it from turning an air gun works great (in NEUTRAL), OR have someone(again in NEUTRAL) hold the REAR BRAKE ON. The sprocket retainers did have factory re-calls on certain earlier models and the ft sprocket has come loose or off altogether.

 

[TobiasYoda]

Thanks for the help so far, everyone. My chain slack is about 1.75 inches or so. It does not whine, and again it was checked by the dealer. I know it was 3 years ago but shouldn't the chain slack increase over the years if not remain the same?

I will look at the clutch basket next time I change the oil. It may be a while since I don't get a chance to work on the bike as frequently as I'd like --at least not for larger projects where I'm going into uncharted territory. Although I don't ride like a newb I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to bike ownership and DIY maintenance. I need to set aside ample time to make sure I do things right the first time.

I still am a bit unsure of why tightening the clutch solves the problem, however. UNLESS the cable needs replacement already, which again is odd since it's got less than 10k on it. When I do tighten up the clutch, it works and feels like it's working properly, the way it should. It never feels overly tight, --but the friction zone is small and way out there when easing out the lever.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the chain is not cleaned and lubed, it'll tighten up with crap build up. I've found one, maybe two adjustments after a new chain installation is all that's needed for me. *** That is, IF MAINTAINED REGULARLY**.

If I feel (or check) a bunch of drive train slop, I know its time to check/adjust.

The friction zone of the clutch on this bike has always been very short. As a general, beginners bike, yes its hard to learn and ride. Once used to it, I like it, I can shift faster with less clutch lever movement.

I agree there should be a Genuine Yamaha clutch cable on there installed by the dealer, BUT you keep pointing towards the adjustment. IMO, I'd replace that cable with a KNOWN OEM, before tearing into the engine...

Good luck...

 

[FinalImpact]

Agree.... Although if you feel you must move forward with basket inspection, install new clutch discs if you open it up! I've seen some worn baskets and don't see that as the cause.

The engines state of tune, clutch disc condition (if burned from slipping could make for a binary on/off clutch) and the rate you relase the clutch/increases RPM are bigger issues.
Have you considered installing adjustable levers? It allows you to set the lever distance away from the grips. Thus, you're not fighting the cable slack for the "perfect spot"... People with smaller hands tend to benefit from this.

Perhaps a video ride along to separate Engine Tune from actual clutch issues, user inputs, etc.