Recent content by opnwhlmnd

Like I said mine are degreed in. It's not my problem I have access to a dyno and know how to do this and you don't. When I'm working on an engine stopping to take a picture is a great way to forget to tighten something. Not for me sorry. I don't have to prove anything to you or anyone else. I...

I went down to my mc dealer friend today and he let me check leakdown on an R6 with 560 miles on it. It had 6.8% leakdown cold and 5.5% warm. From my dyno experiences I would guess the 5.5% would drop to about 5% over 4000 rpms. I have my crankcase vented to atmosphere and am happy...

Yes you can change cams with engine in the bike. Just look at a shop manual and see how to align the timing marks. Also need to check valve lash with the different cams Use R6 cam gears also. Much lighter. I use 2003 R6 for parts.

Do a leakdown test on your engine and see for yourself. Not a perfect way but cheapest tool wise. I've built over a hundred racing engines in my life. And I'm not talking about just putting an engine together. All the machine work that goes with it also. With Total Seal or any gapless ring we...

Vaporization is related to the flash point specs of the type of oil you use and the amount of breakdown over the life of the oil change. The flash point temp is the point the oil can vaporize. Should use oil with a 400 degree or higher flash point. The higher the number the more heat it...

TRUE You can unhook it from the airbox and install a small K&N type filter and vent it to outside. I have mine done that way. Ring blow by on a new engine with conventional style rings with a gap like the FZ has will have around 7% blow by when new and go up from there. Total Seal...

No loss anywhere. Gains throughout powerband. I wouldn't change back I really like it. Sorry no pictures from the build. I'm not much of a picture taker. .

The cams and head gasket are just remove/replace. Not hard at all. I have my cams degreed but not a have to at all. Just remove the old and drop in the new. Also the FZ cams are cast steel and solid. The R6 cams are hollow billet steel and much much lighter. Lower unsprung rotational weight...

R6 engine lower end will not fit. I tried. The intake tracts on an R6 head are different. FZ intake boots fit right on an R6 head. The R6 boots are different. I've had mine both ways, just R6 cams in a FZ6 head and now I have an R6 head on the FZ. Also have the thinner R6 head gasket...

I live in Wildwood now. Near 100 and 109. Sure miss living in Potosi and having all the good riding roads right there. I've been riding most of the winter. Went for a long ride Sunday before the weather change. Gothenburg, I ride that same loop a lot. Really like hwy T through St Albans .

[/b][/color] A new exhaust pipe/system has no effect on the exhaust valve. The pressure on the valve is controlled by the valve spring. How far it opens and how long it stays open is determined by the camshaft lift and duration. The valve spring then closes it. A new/different exhaust...

Quite possibly a broken valve. The head breaks off the stem and turns sideways preventing the piston from going up. Was it running ok last time you had it started? If had a broken/bent valve would have been missing badly

They are "plug and play". You can degree them while installing to get a tad more horsepower but not required. Also with degreeing you can change what the cams do a little. Retard them and gain some top end. Advance them and gain some bottom. Or you can retard one and advance the other...

Titanium .. great choice They are as strong as grade 8 steel bolts and basicly weigh the same as aluminum I've used them for years in my sprint car and never had one break even in a bad crash. Hardly ever replaced one. .

I have a Comfort In Action ST - Wind Plus balaclava and ride in the teens without head and neck getting cold. Very thin and helmet fits fine with it. .