okle001
Junior Member
As above my ecu had a burnt contact. Are they easy to replace? ie plug and play
View attachment 52005
View attachment 52005
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fz6 2005 burnt ecu contact
- Thread starter okle001
- Start date
That's not good at all!
What was the error code displayed before it was removed?
I want to say that the TPS signal or the Cylinder 1 & 4 coil output. Guessing its the coil output. Can you tell us what the adjacent wire color is as you may have other issues beyond the ECM.
Ping [MENTION=3172]skooter65[/MENTION] and see if he has one....
I was looking at this before the server went down trying to find a picture I posted about the pin out. But never did find it.
So, what was not working that lead you here to the ECM if no error code was displayed?
What was the error code displayed before it was removed?
I want to say that the TPS signal or the Cylinder 1 & 4 coil output. Guessing its the coil output. Can you tell us what the adjacent wire color is as you may have other issues beyond the ECM.
Ping [MENTION=3172]skooter65[/MENTION] and see if he has one....
I was looking at this before the server went down trying to find a picture I posted about the pin out. But never did find it.
So, what was not working that lead you here to the ECM if no error code was displayed?
Aha! Got it! http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/51657-fz6n-05-error-code-34-a.html
So how does the connector on the harness side look?
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The wire color code should be orange with a black tracer. That is defo one of the coil control pins. What about the female end of this? Is this the plug assembly that goes directly to the ECU?
okle001
Junior Member
thanks. the female port is blocked off with the connector it looks like it has been fried but may be able to clean it out.
It seems you now have a Chicken and Egg issue about what caused what.
It appears you found the cause (ECM connection to coil) and have replaced the coils. In my experience, when dealing with high voltage (200, 300v), impurities in a connection can cause the connection to fail. So, something in the contacts between the ECM coil output and the adjacent female connector could have caused the connection to fail and it was an isolated issue. So now its about damage control - i.e. how to repair the harness connector.
FWIW: the ECM output to the coils is roughly 200 to 300 volts but very low current. The coils winding and turns ratio boosts the voltage to roughly 18,000 volts or so. So the quality of that connection at the ECM could have been caused by a simple "bad connection" or impurities.
PS - I think this connector comes apart. That is the orange rubber thing comes out but I never took mine apart so I could be mistaken.
From: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/50635-need-way-connect-ideas.html
Also, I'm working on a project to by-pass the original ignition output. If you wish to sell the old ECM down the road and have it devoted to science, let me know!
It appears you found the cause (ECM connection to coil) and have replaced the coils. In my experience, when dealing with high voltage (200, 300v), impurities in a connection can cause the connection to fail. So, something in the contacts between the ECM coil output and the adjacent female connector could have caused the connection to fail and it was an isolated issue. So now its about damage control - i.e. how to repair the harness connector.
FWIW: the ECM output to the coils is roughly 200 to 300 volts but very low current. The coils winding and turns ratio boosts the voltage to roughly 18,000 volts or so. So the quality of that connection at the ECM could have been caused by a simple "bad connection" or impurities.
PS - I think this connector comes apart. That is the orange rubber thing comes out but I never took mine apart so I could be mistaken.
From: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/50635-need-way-connect-ideas.html
Also, I'm working on a project to by-pass the original ignition output. If you wish to sell the old ECM down the road and have it devoted to science, let me know!
Any update on this?? [MENTION=25095]okle001[/MENTION]
Just checking!
Just checking!
okle001
Junior Member
It was the orange lead that was fried. managed to pull apart and I know sounds dodgy, soldered a sewing needle. I have ridden the bike for about 2hrs with no probs
RONEN
New Member
שלום
יש לי קוד שגיאה מישהו יכול לעזור לי
ניתן לפרט במאמר הקודם ..
תודה..
יש לי קוד שגיאה מישהו יכול לעזור לי
ניתן לפרט במאמר הקודם ..
תודה..
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What is the error code?
RONEN
New Member
CODE 34 ...
I replaced Ignition coil ..
And still shows me CODE 34
I replaced Ignition coil ..
And still shows me CODE 34
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A code 34 indicates an open on the primary (low voltage) side of the 2-3 coil. Not sure the version you have, but looking at the schematic for the US version and there is a red/black wire that delivers 12v to the coil from the red STOP/RUN switch. The other wire is grey/black and it provides ground to the coil from the ECU via the 26 pin connector at the ECU.
Test for:
+12 on the red/black
Ground on the grey/black
Check primary coil resistance (should be 1.53 - 2.07 ohms)
Check continuity of the wires to see if there are any breaks
Check all connectors on the ECU and the coils
Best case is you find a dirty or burnt connector
Worst case is a switching transistor in the ECU has failed
Good luck and please report back
Test for:
+12 on the red/black
Ground on the grey/black
Check primary coil resistance (should be 1.53 - 2.07 ohms)
Check continuity of the wires to see if there are any breaks
Check all connectors on the ECU and the coils
Best case is you find a dirty or burnt connector
Worst case is a switching transistor in the ECU has failed
Good luck and please report back
RONEN
New Member
Thank you.
Someone a while ago checked my motorcycle and told me to buy coils. And I bought a new one and tested them and they are good ..
The old ones I had were also good except for one .. I just bought but it does not matter ....
I will check the continuity....
Someone a while ago checked my motorcycle and told me to buy coils. And I bought a new one and tested them and they are good ..
The old ones I had were also good except for one .. I just bought but it does not matter ....
I will check the continuity....
RONEN
New Member
I will check the continuity And there continuity .
All connectors are OK..
All connectors are OK..
RONEN
New Member
Who can help me still the problem has not been solved for me
CODE 33 34
CODE 33 34
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You originally reported a Code 34. Are you now getting 33 and 34?. When did the new code appear?
RONEN
New Member
. At first he showed me code 34 then disappeared and then both appeared 33 34.
At first the garage replaced the coils and returned the problem to me after. I bought from EBAY and also the problem returned
You mean ECU..
When the key is activated I can start but the motorcycle shuts down
At first the garage replaced the coils and returned the problem to me after. I bought from EBAY and also the problem returned
You mean ECU..
When the key is activated I can start but the motorcycle shuts down
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Have you confirmed there is power to both coils when the key is turned on?
RONEN
New Member
איך אוכל לבדוק שלשני הסלילים יש כוח.
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Both coils are supplied positive 12 vdc by a red with black tracer wire on the primary input of the coil. You can unplug the ECU turn the key to on and you should see the primary volt present on the black with red tracer wires that feed the coils. One coil has an orange with black tracer you should see voltage at that one and you should see voltage at the gray with black tracer wire.
The coils are located under the battery compartment.
שני הסלילים מסופקים חיובי 12 וולט DC באמצעות חוט מעקב אדום עם קלט ראשוני של הסליל. אתה יכול לנתק את ה- ECU ולהפעיל את המפתח ואתה אמור לראות את המתח העיקרי הקיים בשחור עם חוטי מעקב אדומים שמזינים את הסלילים. לסליל אחד יש כתום עם נותב שחור. אתה אמור לראות מתח באותו, וכדאי שתראה מתח באפור עם חוט נותב שחור.
הסלילים ממוקמים מתחת לתא הסוללה.
Also @trepetti posted this information previously in this thread: https://www.600riders.com/threads/fz6-2005-burnt-ecu-contact.51893/#post-647816
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